It sounds like we're aiming for the same build. Does the tranny/tcase need any work?
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That's great. I bought the NV4500 service manual and DVD from Torque King 4x4. The DVD has step-by-step instructions on the tranny disassembly and rebuild. It's going to be a while before I'm there, so if you'd like to borrow it, just let me know.
Looks good. I’m sure you’ve got this well in hand!
RUSH55
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- #1,167
I hope so! Cruiser cases are pretty simple, so that’s nice. I am finding out some more differences between the 34mm and 38mm split cases. The first noticeable difference being between the 34mm manual front output engagement and the 38mm vacuum engagement. The 34 has a threaded boss with a plug which houses the detent spring, the 38 has the boss, but it’s blank without threads. The bore for the fork shaft has oil grooves along the top and bottom to provide lube to the vacuum unit on the 38. The 34 does not.
The outer bore diameter is the same, so the seals and shaft boot could interchange. Not sure if the grooves would need filled or if the seal would adequately keep the oil in.
The outer bore diameter is the same, so the seals and shaft boot could interchange. Not sure if the grooves would need filled or if the seal would adequately keep the oil in.
fj62 t-case Vac to manual shift (the answer using all toyota parts)
Well Im not at home so I can't give ya the part numbers but when I get thru the door I'll post them up. Heres the deal, its almost too simple. You use 2 seals from an 85 fj60 case. Also the linkage from an fj60 case works as well. It even bolts right into the shaft its self and the only...
forum.ih8mud.com
Good thread to change the vacuum shift over to manual.
RUSH55
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- #1,170
Thanks Scraps, great thread. Glad I now have a parts case... maybe.
Came across a snag. The machining on the input side of the case for the bearing clearance is different. The 38mm input is smaller. The snap-ring retaining the output bearing on the adapter interferes and won’t let the t-case mating surface sit flush.
Came across a snag. The machining on the input side of the case for the bearing clearance is different. The 38mm input is smaller. The snap-ring retaining the output bearing on the adapter interferes and won’t let the t-case mating surface sit flush.
I converted a vacuum case to manual a few years back. Got all the parts from Georg. It was really easy.
Just as a point of reference, I know everyone wants the 38mm case because it's stronger than the 34mm case, but the reality is that the 38mm case is overkill for most applications - yes, better I know. But, GM's 1 ton case that they used for decades only has a 34.7mm output shaft, so the reality is that the 34mm case is going to be fine for most applications.
Just as a point of reference, I know everyone wants the 38mm case because it's stronger than the 34mm case, but the reality is that the 38mm case is overkill for most applications - yes, better I know. But, GM's 1 ton case that they used for decades only has a 34.7mm output shaft, so the reality is that the 34mm case is going to be fine for most applications.
I’ve always wondered about this. Has there been issues with the 34mm shaft failing? I can’t see a problem with a 34mm shaft that a 38mm shaft solves.
I have a 34mm case.
I also run the Marks over/under gears, Marks only uses the 34mm shaft and gives a bushing for the 38mm case.
RUSH55
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- #1,176
So, anyways, here’s some more tech.
The front output selector shafts are actually the same length, it’s just that the forks are oriented differently and some different machining done at the ends.
The High-Low selector shafts are oriented differently as well.
The high range gear set on the 38 is larger. Haven’t counted teeth yet to verify gear ratios.
The front output selector shafts are actually the same length, it’s just that the forks are oriented differently and some different machining done at the ends.
The High-Low selector shafts are oriented differently as well.
The high range gear set on the 38 is larger. Haven’t counted teeth yet to verify gear ratios.
I'm no expert, but I've never personally heard of anyone breaking one.
RUSH55
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- #1,178
I’m not sure what the big draw is about the 38 case other than it’s beefier. Kind of along the same line as the difference between a 60 front and a 62 front. Everyone wants the 62 because of the extra piece of steel welded to it. Does it really matter? Not in my opinion. If you think you’re wheeling hard enough to necessitate that truss to keep your axle housing from bending you probably ought to be running Dana 60’s anyways. But I picked up this case and want to try to use it. Like anything else in every other build - do you really need that? No. You just want to? Of course!
Basically my point.
I would wouldn’t remove a good 34mm case to replace it with a 38mm case but if a 38mm case was available when I was looking for mine I would have bought it.
I’m not sure of the “improvement” Toyota did when they made the change but I’m sure they didn’t retool just for the hell of it.
! Flying is overrated 
