Cruisers and Company 80 Series Turbo (4 Viewers)

[scottryana]

I think the C&C kit is better in every aspect except for the actual turbo and the lines, the Pulsar turbo is a decent turbo but still a Chinese turbo that is a knockoff of more mainstream turbos but the Chinese turbos have come a long way and a lot of people run them a long time without issues. The j-pipe work is better as it is a true twin scroll setup with good support. I really think either setup will give you miles and miles of problem free use. IF both kits were available for sale today I would buy the C&C setup over the Wits End and swap out the turbo just because I am a turbo snob. lol.

 

[SNLC]

I have been debating for some time…

Grabbed a clean LX awhile back with no engine. Needs leather, needs carpet, needs some paint love/work. Needs a baseline and refreshing but is a rust free ex-grocery getter.

Plan has been since day one to drop an LS in it. Build a sleeper Cruiser, 35-37” rubber on a fairly low lift. 6L80 trans or newer. Retain stock f&r bumpers, mud flaps, maybe even stock side steps.

Not a crawler, not an overlander, a sleeper, get it? A grocery getting, back road slaying, cross country 1,000 mile a day killer, cruise control locked in over the rockies with the ball chiller (seat coolers) and A/C cranking, daily driving around the city whatever *use* not an overland/off-road build 80!

The coil pack 1FZFE in my shop has been tempting me for some time vs the original LS plan, I would only do manual trans behind it though vs auto planned for the LS. It (the coil pack 1FZ) would have to be turbo’ed as well or why even do it!?

Cheers

 

[scottryana]

I have been debating for some time…

Grabbed a clean LX awhile back with no engine. Needs leather, needs carpet, needs some paint love/work. Needs a baseline and refreshing but is a rust free ex-grocery getter.

Plan has been since day one to drop an LS in it. Build a sleeper Cruiser, 35-37” rubber on a fairly low lift. 6L80 trans or newer. Retain stock f&r bumpers, mud flaps, maybe even stock side steps.

Not a crawler, not an overlander, a sleeper, get it? A grocery getting, back road slaying, cross country 1,000 mile a day killer, cruise control locked in over the rockies with the ball chiller (seat coolers) and A/C cranking, daily driving around the city whatever *use* not an overland/off-road build 80!

The coil pack 1FZFE in my shop has been tempting me for some time vs the original LS plan, I would only do manual trans behind it though vs auto planned for the LS. It (the coil pack 1FZ) would have to be turbo’ed as well or why even do it!?

Cheers

This sounds like a fun cool build, the more every 80 looks the same the more I like the idea of things different like a sleeper. A turbo 1FZ is a fun engine with a lot of work to get it running off a stand alone, etc. An LS would also be huge fun, I don't even have time for the projects I have but I always wanted to build a big stroke, big bore LS that made effortless naturally aspirated power.

 

[efjayatee]

I'm wanting to hear that a obd1 turbo kit is available...... @Cruisers and Co

It's very close

 

[peacesells63]

The coil pack 1FZFE in my shop has been tempting me

You still have that thing???

 

[simple]

What do you mean by a charge cooler? An intercooler is a charge cooler. Do you mean an air to water vs an air to air intercooler? Or do you mean using A/C like the Dodge Demon to further chill the water in their air to water intercooler?

Charge cooler is what the euros call an air to water intercooler. Haven't heard of what the Dodge Demon does. Lots of modern American muscle uses charge coolers for supercharged systems. Again a more compact system.

 

[scottryana]

Charge cooler is what the euros call an air to water intercooler. Haven't heard of what the Dodge Demon does. Lots of modern American muscle uses charge coolers for supercharged systems. Again a more compact system.

I have an Air to water system on my 80. Have for 12 years.

 

[60wag]

Is the water for the intercooler part of the engine cooling system, or a completely separate system? It seems like engine coolant would be too hot to be useful.

 

[Mag71k5]

Is the water for the intercooler part of the engine cooling system, or a completely separate system? It seems like engine coolant would be too hot to be useful.

Most systems are usually apart of the radiator/heater loop.

But those are usually integrated with the supercharger itself, like Magnusons V8 chargers.

 

[Cruisers and Co]

Nice. Will the ‘trans stuff’ still involve retaining the a343 and a442?

No… they will be going away for something better… but still Toyota/aisin made

I'm wanting to hear that a obd1 turbo kit is available...... @Cruisers and Co

Super close to having @efjayatee 93 done. A bit of testing then it will be available. Will be more expensive due to electronics

I have an Air to water system on my 80. Have for 12 years.

Thought hard about water to air. End of the day I decided less moving parts, zero electrical to hook up would be a better fit. IIRC you’ve gone through a few pumps? Which isn’t a big deal but simplicity of a2a was the deciding factor.

Is the water for the intercooler part of the engine cooling system, or a completely separate system? It seems like engine coolant would be too hot to be useful.

In most aftermarket w2a kits the water is in its own sealed circuit independent of the engine. Has a water pump, mini radiator, expansion tank, and then the intercooler itself.

 

[Mjones]

No… they will be going away for something better… but still Toyota/aisin made

Interesting. So maybe a 5/6 speed and more efficiency?
Perhaps 80 SERIES UPGRADE POLL - MANUMATIC? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-upgrade-poll-manumatic.1044949/

 

[scottryana]

No… they will be going away for something better… but still Toyota/aisin made


Super close to having @efjayatee 93 done. A bit of testing then it will be available. Will be more expensive due to electronics


Thought hard about water to air. End of the day I decided less moving parts, zero electrical to hook up would be a better fit. IIRC you’ve gone through a few pumps? Which isn’t a big deal but simplicity of a2a was the deciding factor.


In most aftermarket w2a kits the water is in its own sealed circuit independent of the engine. Has a water pump, mini radiator, expansion tank, and then the intercooler itself.

100% I went through a lot of trial and error to get my system working. The last pump has been in about 5 years so knock on wood it’s pretty dialed now but yeah it was a pain in the ass.

 

[bj70bc]

I have a home brew air to water, went with it due to the heat loading capacity of water vs air in all air flow situations, the air charge heat exchanger is always cool to the touch under the hood even on extender highway drives when its working overtime and everything else is heat soaked.
water heat dissapator (radiator) is a 14x14x2" infront of the engine rad, and a 2.5 gallon res in the back of the truck

 

[Cruisers and Co]

Something else to for everything to think about with air to water… if the core fails internally all that coolant goes into the intake track and then into the engine. Might steam clean it till empty, might hydrolock the engine. Failure mode of a2a is loss of boost and potentially running rich due to loss of metered air.

Another reason we chose the a2a setup

 

[Saito]

Charge cooler is what the euros call an air to water intercooler. Haven't heard of what the Dodge Demon does. Lots of modern American muscle uses charge coolers for supercharged systems. Again a more compact system.

Interchiller is how I’ve always referred to them. Uses the air conditioning system to further cool the intake air temps.

 

[PIP]

I've been running a large air-air we build for the 80 series 5.9 and 6.7 Cummins swaps for atleast a dozen years. There's around 65 of them out there running great in the wild.

Water to air has been temperamental/unreliable/complex in the few vehicles I've attempted it- I've not been happy with the results, but a good air-air system works great. It just takes a lot of consideration to get the tubing and mounting correct.

 

[bj70bc]

Something else to for everything to think about with air to water… if the core fails internally all that coolant goes into the intake track and then into the engine. Might steam clean it till empty, might hydrolock the engine. Failure mode of a2a is loss of boost and potentially running rich due to loss of metered air.

Another reason we chose the a2a setup

air to air can pop a fitting and ingest mud water and dirt too....
and when actually 4x4ing the lower mounted air to air is more subject to this...

 

[shellb]

air to air can pop a fitting and ingest mud water and dirt too....
and when actually 4x4ing the lower mounted air to air is more subject to this...

That has to be literally solving for the least likely scenario while sacrificing every other benefit.

Come on.

 

[PIP]

One of my customers, probably a member here, rolled his Cummins 5.9 80 down a ravine. It went over multiple times. Obliterated the body. After topping up some fluids and kicking the windshield out, it fired up and drove itself out. Intercooler completely unharmed. He bought another 80 within a week and swapped everything into it.

I've T-boned a Ford Ranger dead center at 35 MPH in one of my 80's. It made a mess of the ARB bumper, bent the front frame rails to the left a couple inches, but the intercooler was untouched.

Aftermarket air-air intercoolers are built to handle 50+ PSI and are quite thick. They are less likely to leak or suffer damage than a radiator IMO.

Never heard of an intercooler cracking and sucking water or dirt in. You know immediately if there's a big boost leak.

 

[efjayatee]

air to air can pop a fitting and ingest mud water and dirt too....
and when actually 4x4ing the lower mounted air to air is more subject to this...

I will take my chances all day long!