Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (11 Viewers)

[74fj40]

Get on with the updates!!!

 

[mongoose2231]

Yes, please...

 

[cruisermatt]

Ok.. lots of pictures.

Motor mounts. The universal Advance Adapters mounts everyone uses are ugly. They also put the mount too far from the block for my liking. These utilize an 80-Series rear lower control arm bushing.

In the 2nd and 3rd pic you can see there is a lower plate I added after, at the recommendation of an experienced engineer friend. They are welded from the bottom.

 

[cruisermatt]

Hydroboost conversion -

Hydrobooster is normal GM unit offered on every full-size GM car, truck, van, SUV from 1980-2010. I paid $25 for this one and it looks new.

Master cylinder is a disc/disc 2500 Express Van unit. 1.125” bore.

Proportioning valve is a Wilwood unit.

I’ll adapt it to the 60 firewall lines tomorrow morning.

Notice there aren’t any brake tube adapters.. you won’t see any, anywhere. Kinda annoying to have to change the 60 firewall line flare to the bubble style the proportioning valve needs but I’ll need to shorten and bend it anyways so no big deal.

Mounting plate is drilled and tapped for M8, so the bolts can be removed to torque the main nut to 150lbs, and when installing the four nuts on the inside no second tool is needed.

Also, you have to cut and tap the GM pedal rod for M10x1.25 for the Toyota pedal bracket.

 

[cruisermatt]

For my fuel system, I went with a Walbro 255lph pump in the stock
FJ62 in-tank module. Finding the adapter to go from the M14-1.5 on the sender to -6AN was a tricky one. For the return chop the flare off and use a 5/16” tube adapter.
I also machined a little holder for the lines. Because why not.

 

[cruisermatt]

Conversion fittings for the specialty GM quick-connect fittings on the fuel rail and filter are easily available. Entire system is now -6AN.
This is the combined fuel filter / fuel pressure regulator that everyone uses. It’s the way to go. I made a custom mount for it on the frame.

 

[cruisermatt]

I machined a bunch of these aluminum line tabs. They hold the 3/8” stainless hard line I bent up to run the fuel down the frame rail and up the firewall. I still need to make the soft line from the frame to body and from the firewall to fuel rail.
The tabs on the frame rail will also hold a new brake line I’m going to make. The lowest fluid line on my truck will be the long fuel line, that it will be 3” from the bottom of the frame rail. Way better then the factory mess of fuel, brake, and evap, and LSPV lines running all over the frame.

 

[cruisermatt]

Don’t remember if I actually posted any specs on the motor.
It’s a 2005 L33, also known as a 5.3 “high-output”. It’s a 5.3-liter, aluminum block, 799 heads (LS6), and a better cam.
I installed an LS6 intake and injectors. This also worked to convert the throttle body to cable drive from drive-by-wire. The alternator/PS pump bracket has to get chopped at the top and the idler pulley relocated. The upper
neck in the water pump also
Has to be twisted a few degrees.
Headers are EBay stainless block huggers.
I don’t care that the truck intake makes a few Ft-lbs more at a lower RPM, it’s so ugly so
I threw it in the trash.

Much better. I’ll be installing the “Muscle car”/H3 oil pan at the end of this week.

 

[74fj40]

Awesome work with the fuel lines. I totally went the easy route and used aeroquip pushlock throughout.

Also, motor mounts look amazing. I doubt they will ever need serviced!

Keep it up.

 

[cruisermatt]

All of my soft fuel hoses are Earl’s UltraPro PTFE-lined. They are super nice, super light, and they were super expensive . That being said, I have found Earl’s to be pretty much the highest quality in terms of
hobbiest-level automotive plumbing. Aeroquip is also very nice. Russel and Fragola are pretty nice but they don’t quite have the same feel.

Regardless, Earl’s UltraPro hose was the only PTFE-lined hose I could get with a soft black braid (I refuse to use stainless braided line), which meant I had to get the associated Earl’s fittings.
Every fitting is black of course, besides the one green adapter on the fuel tank.

 

[cruisermatt]

Hopefully it doesn’t storm too much tomorrow so I can finish modifying my firewall-mounted brake lines, paint the engine bay, and get the motor reinstalled, because I need the weight in there for doing the SOA this weekend .

And this showed up, so I’ll also be able to get started on the wiring, which should actually be pretty minimal.

 

[White Stripe]

Don’t remember if I actually posted any specs on the motor.
It’s a 2005 L33, also known as a 5.3 “high-output”. It’s a 5.3-liter, aluminum block, 799 heads (LS6), and a better cam.
I installed an LS6 intake and injectors. This also worked to convert the throttle body to cable drive from drive-by-wire. The alternator/PS pump bracket has to get chopped at the top and the idler pulley relocated. The upper
neck in the water pump also
Has to be twisted a few degrees.
Headers are EBay stainless block huggers.
I don’t care that the truck intake makes a few Ft-lbs more at a lower RPM, it’s so ugly so
I threw it in the trash.

Much better. I’ll be installing the “Muscle car”/H3 oil pan at the end of this week.

View attachment 1717928
View attachment 1717929

Do u have to install the ls6 injectors with the ls6 manifold? Will the truck injectors fit? Just curious.

 

[cruisermatt]

You could run the truck injectors with an aftermarket fuel rail, or use these spacers pictured below with the LS1/6 fuel rail. I wasn’t super please with the fitment quality of the spacers (they were the very cheap ones) so I opted to just run the LS6 injectors. They are 33lb/hr where the truck injectors are 28lbs/hr, so not a huge difference but it will be accounted for in the tune either way.
My original plan was to modify an original truck harness, but I ended up ordering a harness from PSI and had it built to accommodate the LS1/6 injectors.

 

[cruisermatt]

Got my hydroboost in and the master cylinder hooked up to the stock brake lines, with a bit of finesse (had to take the lines in and out a dozen times, machine a keeper, and change the flares and fittings, again, no adapter fittings here). Thanks @GLTHFJ60 for the tip on the GM master cylinder’s plumbing being reverse of Toyota.

Oh yeah, check out the PSC remote reservoir setup. This works alongside changing out the housing on the pump, which also convientiently gave me the clearance I needed for the steering box. I shamelessly copied @GLTHFJ60 ‘s mount bracket for the reservoir.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

#soclean

Nice work.

 

[White Stripe]

Steering looks really nice. Where did you get those spacers from? You going to run a steering cooler too? Looking forward to your soa stuff.

 

[MANUCHAO]

I machined a bunch of these aluminum line tabs. They hold the 3/8” stainless hard line I bent up to run the fuel down the frame rail and up the firewall. I still need to make the soft line from the frame to body and from the firewall to fuel rail.
The tabs on the frame rail will also hold a new brake line I’m going to make. The lowest fluid line on my truck will be the long fuel line, that it will be 3” from the bottom of the frame rail. Way better then the factory mess of fuel, brake, and evap, and LSPV lines running all over the frame.

View attachment 1717920


View attachment 1717922
View attachment 1717921
View attachment 1717924
View attachment 1717923

that's sexy AF !!!

 

[cruisermatt]

Steering looks really nice. Where did you get those spacers from? You going to run a steering cooler too? Looking forward to your soa stuff.

They were from eBay. And yes, I’m going to run a big steering cooler as well. Haven’t picked one out yet though, need to do the custom AC condenser mounts first.

 

[cruisermatt]

that's sexy AF !!!

#soclean

Nice work.

Just finished the first coat of race car grey in the engine bay.

 

[cruisermatt]