Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I don’t like how far out those would put the top of the shock, I don’t think those would keep the shock angle positive. Thanks for posting them though.
 
Last edited:
Drilled and turned down some tube on my neighbor’s lathe for sleeves to use 9/16” bolts with Cruiser leaf spring bushings. Stock pins are 18mm..

0A2E7626-9CC7-4B30-968E-3FB68EBFBB25.jpeg
6AC53E34-2596-4625-B1CD-CE80E3AF5E2C.jpeg
0BA6E893-C550-4832-BAA5-2E58DEAF1D02.jpeg
 
And here is my setup to drill my new pitman arm out to 5/8”.. tried to remove it from the box but got denied.
Pitman arm has a nice flat on the bottom and side which makes it pretty easy to set up.

First drill to 19/32, then ream to 0.6224” (lucky find, brand new for $10 and perfect size for to make nice tight fit for a 5/8” bolt). Wish I had it when I did my steering arms, although I got pretty good results on them with a good 5/8” bit and going slow.


88B5E526-3043-4A53-ABDA-AD76BECA4BBE.jpeg

AE60F228-A238-4E32-9FB7-F54036D3F380.jpeg


CF6B3917-38F6-45B2-8A67-3ABFCE344740.jpeg

99D979B1-DF6D-44BC-9C57-B97A5FE386D7.jpeg
 
Got my dad to make the front shackles. They are 6” long (center to center) but I’m going to need to use 7” shackles because the spring eye is contacting the frame right before the spring reaches max length (loosing a touch of uptravel). Then I need some nice bump stops.

59799718-FACF-436B-AC0D-B335AE084C17.jpeg
 
Great to have a dad who’s knowledgeable and tool savy lend a hand on projects.
Lookin’ great Matt

I’m working on getting him up to speed with the welding, metal fabrication, and machining...
 
Last edited:
Are you using a heim joint at the pittman arm? If so, why? Why not taper it for a GM 1 ton? Maybe I missed something in the last 63 pages!
 
Are you using a heim joint at the pittman arm? If so, why? Why not taper it for a GM 1 ton? Maybe I missed something in the last 63 pages!

I don’t think I really posted any details on my steering yet.
Yes, I am using heims. They are tighter, stronger, and give me a lot more options for future changes. Flame away.
I’m looking forwards to posting the solution for how to accomplish a clean Y-link with heims. I’m pretty sure my friends and I invented a new way to do it.
 
Heims are strong they need to be used with a double shear. I am not flaming i have been building trucks for years and have used them plenty.
 
Heims are strong they need to be used with a double shear. I am not flaming i have been building trucks for years and have used them plenty.

I like heims. I like the tight steering feel they provide. And since mine are quality heims from Ruffstuff they should last awhile. I wear out a set of 60 TRE’s every year.

However I am using 5/8” bolts so they will be OK in single shear. I am running safety misalignment spacers so if a rod end fails it can’t go over the bolt head.
Obviously if the bolt shears there’s trouble, but if that happens double shear won’t be any help.
 
Not sure that Heims are street legal. Agree about the double shear thing. I'd worry about steering a street truck at speed in single shear.

I have had very good luck with Chevy 1 ton TREs from Moog.

But thinking outside the box is cool. Looking forward to the final design.
 
street legal

:lol:

If I want to go back to TRE’s Ruffstuff sell tapered inserts. Although I think those require drilling to 7/8” which I’m not sure is smart on these steering arms.

By the way, I think I got my high steer arms for free (years ago) which is why I have no qualms about drilling them.
 
While you may laugh about the legality of this, but if (god forbid) you are in an accident, you will be automatically liable due to illegal steering. Where as parts that are heavier duty than stock, and thus an upgrade, at least have some argument and wiggle room.

I've never used Heims, but given they are not serviceable or greasable, do not look like the thing to use on a street driven truck. Now if you trailer everywhere, then you're golden. But I would not do, what you are doing.
 
Man this looks like a whole bunch of work. When I do projects like this the first 30% of the work is fun. The rest is just pushing through being burned out. Some people enjoy the whole process. Ride height looks like it will be nice. Curious to see how the rear flexes.

I’m on a summer break from school right now and quit worki g so this truck has basically been like a full time job, I’ve been spending probably 40-50 hours a week on it for the past two months. Which is why I’ve been able to go into mega detail on everything like I have been, fuel lines, brake lines etc.
I have to take a day off from it every 6-7 days or so.

I’m very satisfied with the ride height, it looks like it’s only about a 4-5” lift from stock, there’s SUA rigs that are taller. I really wanted it to be as low as possible SOA for how I use and want to use the rig in the future. I still want to be able to get kayaks and canoes up and down easily, use it for camping etc.
Thanks for following along !
 
While you may laugh about the legality of this, but if (god forbid) you are in an accident, you will be automatically liable due to illegal steering. Where as parts that are heavier duty than stock, and thus an upgrade, at least have some argument and wiggle room.

I've never used Heims, but given they are not serviceable or greasable, do not look like the thing to use on a street driven truck. Now if you trailer everywhere, then you're golden. But I would not do, what you are doing.

I’m joking but you do have a good point. However I trust my work. I just welded and fabricated every suspension component under my truck, if one broke I could possibly loose control of the rig, but I’m a professional welder and trust my work.

My dad’s race car
(Along with any race car out there) has heims in the steering and he goes 150mph in that thing.

I usually do a check-up under the truck every week or two along with tire pressures and fluid checks.

With the scope of how much I’ve changed, removed and added on this round of modifications I’ll be doing a full nut, bolt and weld check under this thing before I drive it next month, and probably a few times right after.

I just don’t see how 7/8” chromoly heims in the steering could be any more dangerous the aftermarket steering arms, or the 30 year old knuckle housing
 
Axle back under truck, finally got the left-hand tube inserts that were on backorder so I was able to install my deadly dangerous illegal kitten-killing steering too.
Got the 80 series steering box installed with -6 adapters installed as well.
I was able to get the drivers side shock tower tacked in as well.
I cut some 1/4” rubber vacuum hose as edge trimming around the cut in the inner fender. We’ll see how long it stays.

40A50266-64A8-4D3D-850D-CB6DCBBB7A81.jpeg


51B5A3DB-094A-4E33-9676-30AD9E0C4502.jpeg

1B6151F0-E96C-424E-BA95-AB878F97B9E3.jpeg

E103D21B-AC5A-4C82-AC25-30396C8FB2DE.jpeg

56F56579-C703-4CF7-9266-55F1B6BEDE7B.jpeg
 
Here’s some pics of the 80 steering box. Nice bolt-in upgrade for 85-90 60 series.
It has better pitman arm geometry for spring-over trucks.

6B372CAC-D67C-4A90-B8A4-AFFE75E79C69.jpeg

981AE7CF-6A74-460B-BA7A-E1E7068882C8.jpeg

C59246DA-9F22-489A-B058-0A2D02CD9C00.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom