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Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by cruisermatt, Aug 12, 2013.
nice looking welds!!
Thanks, not too bad for overhead and under truck, awkward positions etc.
please forgive my ignorance - but what is all that frame welding and extra steel for?
You need mini-truck hubs up front to even that out.
Stance looks great on the side profile shots. Nice work!
Well, yes, that would do the same thing as the two inch wheel spacers, just a bit more refined.
What is the brake upgrade that goes along with that? Tundra or Tacoma? How are you liking it?
I have these super nice 60 brakes that are kinda keeping me from wanting to upgrade them further. I’m actually pretty happy with them too, and now I’ll have the hydroboost.
I’m about to do that. I’m hoping on Saturday. I need to get a 4.10 front diff before I pull swap those in.
Those are the monster TLC calipers. Look likely they have more brake surface area.
Supposedly the brake surface area combined with the Tundra rotors extra mass (less brake fade) make all the difference. Torfab which is really close to me does that swap on most of the V8 swapped cruisers it does now a days. I joke with them that I’ll be able to stop 10x faster than go with the 2F. I hope to do a motor swap and trailer build way down the line and working on the pieces I can build up to that point.
I’ll let you know what I think of the brakes once I wrap them up.
These are Chevy 3/4-ton springs which are quite longer then the stock length rear springs. So, front hangers needed to move forwards and rear hangers needed to move back.
I boxed the rear-most of the frame where it is open C-channel to facilitate running my upper shackle bushing through it, rather then below the frame like almost everyone does.
Here’s some pictures for comparison:
Seriously nice welds and skill planning.
I keep forgetting you have a build thread. Will check in more often. Glad I got to stop by and check it out in person.
Matt is a 21 yr old college student that has accumulated an amazing amount of knowledge and skills in a short amount of time. AND is accomplishing it all on a tight budget.
Thanks. I’ve you read through the whole thread you’d see the suspension is the only thing I’ve never really messed with... I’ve been planning, test driving other’s trucks, reading, shopping, etc for a long time, really since I started driving this truck (6-7 years?!).
The last year the rear springs has have really started to go out, so it was action time.
Thanks for the kind words Steve. The budget part is relative, lots of money went into tooling past year or two (Better welders and the Bridgeport). Before I’d have to bring stuff to whereever I was working to weld out, etc.
I definitely wouldn’t have the quality fab work without my tools right next to the truck.
Great work Matt. Impressive welding as well. Wish I had half those skills .
Question on the rear shackle...will that spring ever flex enough causing the bottom of the shackle to make contact with the frame? I assume not due to no/limited arch.
Do you mean the top of the spring eye making contact with the bottom of the frame rail?
Or the side of the shackle hitting the bumper support?
Was thinking the spring eye.
Yeah, good catch. Truth is I kinda went with my gut on that one. I put a 1” block between the spring and frame with the weight of the truck on the springs when I set the shackle angle, kinda figuring (hoping) that the spring will reach max flex right before touching the frame. If it doesn’t I can make longer shackles. I’ll know when I flex it on the forklift for shock measurements.
Tonight’s shenanigans in the shop..
I laid out all my clutch parts.
Flywheel is an LS truck flywheel (Sachs NFW1050, 6.0 2500HD). $50 new from Rock Auto.
Clutch kit is a standard 12” Small Block Chevy clutch kit, pressure plate needed a few holes drilled out for the loarger bolts as well as dowel pins. In hindsight I would have gone with the matching clutch kit for this flywheel however the small-block kits are 1/3 the price which is nice.
For a pilot bearing, the small-block pilot bearing fits in the LS crank, however the ID doesn’t allow fitment on the 0.750” Dodge NV4500 pilot tip. So a quick trip to the store for a Dorman 14650 ($6), which is a small block Chevy pilot bushing, then drill that to 3/4” on the mill. Had to make a V-block first as I realized I didn’t have any too late.
Lastly for tonight is the throwout bearing and clutch fork, this is where it gets fun.
I initially planned to use the Chevy throwout bearing that came in the clutch kit, along with a Chevy clutch fork that matched my 80’s truck bellhousing. The issue I didn’t see ahead of time with that is that the Chevy throwout bearing doesn’t fit on the Dodge input bearing retainer.
I know the Toyota F engines and small block Chevy’s use very similar clutch/bellhousing geometry, so I dug out my old 2F clutch fork that has a like-new throwout bearing on it.
The 2F throwout bearing is far superior to the Chevy part, and the fork has similar motion ratio to the Chevy equivalent.
It also fits over my Dodge input, I know this because I ran it behind the 3FE for two years.
The issue is that the 2F throwout bearing and hub is twice the height of the Chevy TB. And space is kinda a premium under the bellhousing with the LS flywheel being 1/2” further back.
So, I took a bunch of measurements, mocked up the flywheel and pressure plate with 1/4” spare under them, under the bellhousing on the workbench, then took the bellhousing and adapter plate over to the Bridgeport and promptly milled the s*** out of them
I completely removed the Chevy pivot pin and made a provision for the Toyota pivot pin in the adapter plate. Which is way stronger then the bellhousing anyways.
Just need to make a bracket for the FJ60 clutch slave and I should be good to go.
And yes, I realize there is a big kit from Advanced Adapters that makes all of this bolt together. However I really didn’t feel like spending the money on it and frankly think I’m ending up with better components. That 2F throwout bearing is a substantially heavier duty design. The Chevy one is half plastic.
Now let’s just hope it all works