If you plan to run sliders, check the mounting points. Some attach where drop-brackets need to go, so you can't run both. Radius arms don't have this issue.
Compiled 80 series suspension component spec thread... shocks, coils & more.
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I’ve seen this come up a couple other times, but don’t recall if it quite answered the question. My bad if it’s somewhere in this thread. Might be a long way to ask a simple question. Truck has J springs with 2” spacer up front to make it level (pretty dead-on at all 4 corners). Depending what the agreed-upon stock measurements are, I’d say it’s 4.5”. Came this way and I don’t mind it, but would prefer a standard 2.5-3” setup with my 315s. Has caster plates that I assume were correct for front J springs w/o the spacer. Truck drives & tracks great either way & to my knowledge they confirmed caster within spec at the time, though I don’t have the numbers. I understand generally how height affects geometry, so that’s not really my question.
Simply put, given current setup, is it likely it will still be good if I go down to 2.5-3” (a 1.5-2” drop)? Or: with a kit that’s made for 3.5, am I still good at 2.5-3? Feels like a dumb question when putting it that way, but..
Springs are in fine shape, so I’d *hope* it’s as simple as swapping the rears and losing the front spacer. Maybe fine tune the front with a small spacer if necessary, depending on rear result. It has almost all other parts to correct the lift - only thing they didn’t do was DC front shaft (I have confirmed current angles for using one), and I added a 3” rear panhard bracket.
Even if we can say caster/etc will still be good, certainly wouldn’t hurt to have it checked and aligned again either way. I understand you won’t know for sure unless you do it, and that they don’t all behave exactly the same.
If it’s good to go, I’ll select an appropriate rear spring to net a ~23” measurement.
Simply put, given current setup, is it likely it will still be good if I go down to 2.5-3” (a 1.5-2” drop)? Or: with a kit that’s made for 3.5, am I still good at 2.5-3? Feels like a dumb question when putting it that way, but..
Springs are in fine shape, so I’d *hope* it’s as simple as swapping the rears and losing the front spacer. Maybe fine tune the front with a small spacer if necessary, depending on rear result. It has almost all other parts to correct the lift - only thing they didn’t do was DC front shaft (I have confirmed current angles for using one), and I added a 3” rear panhard bracket.
Even if we can say caster/etc will still be good, certainly wouldn’t hurt to have it checked and aligned again either way. I understand you won’t know for sure unless you do it, and that they don’t all behave exactly the same.
If it’s good to go, I’ll select an appropriate rear spring to net a ~23” measurement.
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Not sure about a lot of that, but if you're running a PO's non-standard driveshafts (which might not be obvious at a glance), I'm guessing a change in height could really screw you up. Also check the LSPV height, and make sure extended brake lines don't get in the way of anything after lowering.
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The short answer is yes, things will be fine after you drop 2” and probably better. If you plan to keep the 850j springs up front after removing the spacer then the standard 863 will give you a very close to level stance to slightly higher in the rear when the rig is unloaded. This is the first lift combo I ever ran several years ago. Note that I did have sliders and heavier 4x4Labs rear bumper and light weight tube bumper with winch up front.
Your caster is probably deficient right now but will be ideal once you remove the front spacer. How old are your castor plates? Do you know the brand? This set up should run nicely with a front DC shaft.
Thanks both. I probably said a lot that made it sound more complicated, as usual...
Current shafts are stock but I’ve replaced all the joints with Koyo.. if anything it should improve when it comes down a little, though I expect I’ll still be a candidate for DC because of the caster plates. Rear shaft angles are fine and no vibration, but front gives me light vibes due to the joint at TC. Front joint measures <1°. Preference would be a Toyota-built DC, but I’m sure I’d do just fine with tom woods. No shaft shops around here, so doing Toyota myself not as likely.
Extended lines appear to be a good length for current lift and also going a little lower, although I still need to replace one of them that had been rubbing on the front tire at full lock because of how they let it curve - the braided outer has a little fraying in one spot, but line itself is solid. I got it out of the way for now. I have a replacement I haven’t put in yet.
I doubt they touched the LSPV but will check that.
I think you’ll be right about caster. It feels fine now, but would expect a slight improvement. We’ll find out after another alignment check.
Based on vehicle history and other clues (date stamp on the 315s it came with, obviously installed at time of lift), the kit was put on in 2012 right before it came up to Juneau. I bought it in 2020 right before prices jumped. It’s only been a DD so nothing has been beat around or flexed much.. everything still looks really good, so I’m not worried about having to replace anything else, but who knows. Don’t know caster plate brand, but how many were available 10 years ago? They look like the common options everyone uses. For the spacers and swaybar drops/etc they used metaltech.
863 non-j is what I was thinking, but that may only drop me 1” or so? I actually like the stiffer ride for my use, but may be better to go with medium since I am almost always unloaded, and only light load otherwise. My 18ft skiff tongue weight is quite light so I don’t need heavies for that either. I’m down for a slight rake if it ends up that way, but small spacers are cheap.
Not rushing on any of this, just thinking ahead. I’d also like to pull the running boards & put on front mud guards I have in the garage, but they’re pretty functional right now at this height, hah. Thanks again.
Current shafts are stock but I’ve replaced all the joints with Koyo.. if anything it should improve when it comes down a little, though I expect I’ll still be a candidate for DC because of the caster plates. Rear shaft angles are fine and no vibration, but front gives me light vibes due to the joint at TC. Front joint measures <1°. Preference would be a Toyota-built DC, but I’m sure I’d do just fine with tom woods. No shaft shops around here, so doing Toyota myself not as likely.
Extended lines appear to be a good length for current lift and also going a little lower, although I still need to replace one of them that had been rubbing on the front tire at full lock because of how they let it curve - the braided outer has a little fraying in one spot, but line itself is solid. I got it out of the way for now. I have a replacement I haven’t put in yet.
I doubt they touched the LSPV but will check that.
I think you’ll be right about caster. It feels fine now, but would expect a slight improvement. We’ll find out after another alignment check.
Based on vehicle history and other clues (date stamp on the 315s it came with, obviously installed at time of lift), the kit was put on in 2012 right before it came up to Juneau. I bought it in 2020 right before prices jumped. It’s only been a DD so nothing has been beat around or flexed much.. everything still looks really good, so I’m not worried about having to replace anything else, but who knows. Don’t know caster plate brand, but how many were available 10 years ago? They look like the common options everyone uses. For the spacers and swaybar drops/etc they used metaltech.
863 non-j is what I was thinking, but that may only drop me 1” or so? I actually like the stiffer ride for my use, but may be better to go with medium since I am almost always unloaded, and only light load otherwise. My 18ft skiff tongue weight is quite light so I don’t need heavies for that either. I’m down for a slight rake if it ends up that way, but small spacers are cheap.
Not rushing on any of this, just thinking ahead. I’d also like to pull the running boards & put on front mud guards I have in the garage, but they’re pretty functional right now at this height, hah. Thanks again.
- Thread starter
- #526
@SpenserAK Like baldilocks wrote the OME 85J/863, Ls & caster plates hybrid combo have been a main go to lift for well over 20 years.
But why not try a dual rate rear coil?
863J has a rate of 265#, an 863 has a rate of 250#
As far as lift the 863 is generally around 3.5" of lift then the 863J is approx. 1" taller.
To match the 850J which generally nets 3.5" of lift (23.5" center of hub to bottom of flare).
I would look for a 3" heavy rear coil to match the 850J front coil. Something around 250-280# rate.
Dobinson has 3" rear C97-145VT 180/270/340# rate
Trail Tailor Tough Dog 949L 2" lift plus 30mm spacer 220/280# (I have these & like them better then the last 4 sets of rear coils I've had)
The OME 866 2" lift plus 30mm spacer 240/300# rate
Dobinson 2" rear plus 25mm C97-147VT 160/215/285# rate
Some folks don't like rear spacers, but I like running rear spacers because it gives a bit of extra cushion plus allows to lower the rear incase the actual lift is taller than advertised.
Happy Trails
But why not try a dual rate rear coil?
863J has a rate of 265#, an 863 has a rate of 250#
As far as lift the 863 is generally around 3.5" of lift then the 863J is approx. 1" taller.
To match the 850J which generally nets 3.5" of lift (23.5" center of hub to bottom of flare).
I would look for a 3" heavy rear coil to match the 850J front coil. Something around 250-280# rate.
Dobinson has 3" rear C97-145VT 180/270/340# rate
Trail Tailor Tough Dog 949L 2" lift plus 30mm spacer 220/280# (I have these & like them better then the last 4 sets of rear coils I've had)
The OME 866 2" lift plus 30mm spacer 240/300# rate
Dobinson 2" rear plus 25mm C97-147VT 160/215/285# rate
Some folks don't like rear spacers, but I like running rear spacers because it gives a bit of extra cushion plus allows to lower the rear incase the actual lift is taller than advertised.
Happy Trails
Thanks for sharing that again. Don’t want you guys to do too much work providing information that’s already well covered, but always appreciated. Consistently most helpful forum I’ve experienced.
On my otherwise pretty stock truck (keeping in mind these are 10 years old, but not abused), the rear J alone has me at 24.75, and front is the same with the 2” metal spacer, suggesting the spring alone is getting me 22.75, which I thought was interesting early on. I don’t see an isolator in there though. I think you’re right about what I need.... I’ll likely make it easy for myself & go 863, then adjust front spacer if necessary & call it a day. Even a 1” drop is fine by me.
I joke that I have no business owning a cruiser, considering what they’re built for. Still want quality products, but I fall on the price-conscious end of things vs higher performance, so OME coils are probably easiest for me. I always have to consider AK shipping too, and they are sometimes available through prime. Of course, I say this without having driven an 80 with a more modern & performance-oriented setup.
Sidenote - due to the local terrain, there is no actual offroading in Juneau outside of two limited quad areas, but the local club is working hard to organize a new area with the city that may open up some opportunities, all under volunteer power. There are more opportunities just north in Haines, and north of that in Canada, but the cost of a ferry ticket and other necessities to get there in the first place is prohibitive.
Either way, before this comes my knuckles, power steering, and should probably take care of my built in “rust prevention” up front
Saving your comments as this was helpful
On my otherwise pretty stock truck (keeping in mind these are 10 years old, but not abused), the rear J alone has me at 24.75, and front is the same with the 2” metal spacer, suggesting the spring alone is getting me 22.75, which I thought was interesting early on. I don’t see an isolator in there though. I think you’re right about what I need.... I’ll likely make it easy for myself & go 863, then adjust front spacer if necessary & call it a day. Even a 1” drop is fine by me.
I joke that I have no business owning a cruiser, considering what they’re built for. Still want quality products, but I fall on the price-conscious end of things vs higher performance, so OME coils are probably easiest for me. I always have to consider AK shipping too, and they are sometimes available through prime. Of course, I say this without having driven an 80 with a more modern & performance-oriented setup.
Sidenote - due to the local terrain, there is no actual offroading in Juneau outside of two limited quad areas, but the local club is working hard to organize a new area with the city that may open up some opportunities, all under volunteer power. There are more opportunities just north in Haines, and north of that in Canada, but the cost of a ferry ticket and other necessities to get there in the first place is prohibitive.
Either way, before this comes my knuckles, power steering, and should probably take care of my built in “rust prevention” up front
Saving your comments as this was helpful
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #528
There has been another thread going on about taller OE rear stock 91-92 bump stops that turned into some a alternate Timbren options for the 80 series.
I will leave this here.
forum.ih8mud.com
A few folks have shared the rear 100 series AOR bump stop kit #ABSTORSEQ fits the 80 series better than the 80 series kit does.
Shoredreamer wrote:
Timbrens on the rear for me as well. Pretty sure I took the idea from @Corbet
Used the 100 series model and spaced it down with @Hitit66 frame bump spacer. Matches well with the 17.5” compressed shocks and 35s I run. The Timbrens basically are replacing both the stock frame bump and coil bumper. Waiting to get the Dobinsons rear hydro bumps when they are available.
These are the rear AOR Timbrens for an 80 series.
They are way to tall, the bracket appears to be just under 4.5" tall & needs to be cut down for anything under a 40" tires. (I believe BoxRocket cut his down to 3")
Box Rocket wrote:
Those look like a great option if you didn't have access to a welder. I had the "normal" 80 series Timbrens with the uber tall rear towers. I cut them down and rewelded to about 3" from the frame to where the rubber starts. So maybe a bit taller than yours. Has worked great with the 37's and being airborne a few times.
Kabanstva Wrote:
Looks like the 100 rear Timbren bracket is also 1.25” (def not 1.5”) and about 5” altogether (metal bracket and rubber bump). I got the Timbrens from Nitro Gear Just Differentials 2 years ago for reference. Sorry pics aren’t great and tape measure slipped (the tip is actually slightly above the bottom of the vehicle’s frame).
Shoredreamer wrote:
I’m seeing 3 options for our 80s, maybe more, on the rear axle department with Timbren Aeon springs
ABSTORLC1, Active Off-Road bumpstop with the super tall metal tower and additional metal cup, using the A515-55 spring, 2,400# bump capacity
TORLC1, SES (towing application) with super tall metal tower, using the A535-65 spring, 6,500# bump capacity
TORSEQ, 100 series rear SES (towing app) with short metal tower, using the A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity
Not sure how this translates into function exactly, other than the fact that the TORSEQ seems like it can take a harder hit than the AOR bump TORLC1.
GW Nugget wrote:
Yep & to add, these are the bolt on non welding "KIT" options:
FRONT:
80 series front AOR #ABSTOFLC1A uses a A00515-55P30 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
80 series front SES #TOFLC1A uses a A00515-65P30 - 4,000 lbs. AEON spring.
REAR:
100 series rear AOR #ABSTORSEQ uses a #A00515-55F60 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
100 series rear SES #TORSEQ uses #A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity AEON spring.
~~~~~~~~
Just for reference on what shoredreamer is communicating:
80 series front AOR #ABSTOFLC1A uses a A00515-55P30 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
Active Off-Road Bumpstops for Toyota Landcruiser - Front Kit
80 series front SES #TOFLC1A uses a A00515-65P30 - 4,000 lbs. AEON spring.
Timbren SES Suspension Enhancement System SKU# TOFLC1A - Front Kit
80 series rear AOR #ABSTORLC1 uses a #A00515-55F60 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
Active Off-Road Bumpstops for Toyota Landcruiser 70 & 80 series - Rear Kit
80 series rear SES #TORLC1 uses a #A00535-65E60 - 6,500 lbs. AEON spring.
Timbren SES Suspension Enhancement System SKU# TORLC1 - Rear Kit
100 series rear AOR #ABSTORSEQ uses a #A00515-55F60 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
Active Off-Road Bump Stops SKU# ABSTORSEQ - Rear Kit
100 series rear SES #TORSEQ uses #A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity AEON spring.
Timbren SES Suspension Enhancement System SKU# TORSEQ - Rear Kit
~~~~~~
Here is a chart I found for the Front/Rear 80 series AOR & the 100 series rear. #A515-55 has a 2,400 lb load cap.
Type: A515-55
Nominal Rated Capacity: 1,000#
Bump Load Capacity: 2,400#
Nominal Height (A): 3-3/4"
Nominal O.D. (B): 3-3/8"
Maximum Deflected Height (C): 1-1/2"
Maximum Deflection (A)-(C): 2-1/4"
Maximum Diameter (D): 4-7/8"
Type: A515-65 is a 80 series SES front AEON spring
Nominal Rated Capacity: 1,500#
Bump Load Capacity: 4,000#
Nominal Height (A): 3-3/4"
Nominal O.D. (B): 3-3/8"
Maximum Deflected Height (C): 1-1/2"
Maximum Deflection (A)-(C): 2-1/4"
Maximum Diameter (D): 4-7/8"
*****chart coming soon******
Here is a chart I found for the 80 series rear SES #TORLC1 uses a #A00535-65E60 - 6,500 lbs. AEON spring.
Type: A535-65
Nominal Rated Capacity: 3,000#
Bump Load Capacity: 6,500#
Nominal Height (A): 5-1/8"
Nominal O.D. (B): 3-5/16"
Maximum Deflected Height (C): 2"
Maximum Deflection (A)-(C): 3-1/8"
Maximum Diameter (D): 6-1/4"
~~~~~~~~~
Found this if you want to DIY your own AEON bump/springs.
More resource info:
Hydro bump stops
forum.ih8mud.com
The Front:
I Emailed Timbren & got specs for the 80 series AOR bumps.
3.75" free/1.5" compressed/deflected
The front bracket is 1.25" tall.
#A515-65
I will leave this here.
Rear Bump Stop Types
For stock rear frame bump stops, I conservatively recommend to lower bumps 1.5" for 35s & 2.5" for 37s. Also knowing a stock frame bump will be approx. 2.5" tall when compressed. We also now know how tall the Timbren AOR bump stop is when compressed is 1.5" compressed. Now we do simple math...
forum.ih8mud.com
A few folks have shared the rear 100 series AOR bump stop kit #ABSTORSEQ fits the 80 series better than the 80 series kit does.
Shoredreamer wrote:
Timbrens on the rear for me as well. Pretty sure I took the idea from @Corbet
Used the 100 series model and spaced it down with @Hitit66 frame bump spacer. Matches well with the 17.5” compressed shocks and 35s I run. The Timbrens basically are replacing both the stock frame bump and coil bumper. Waiting to get the Dobinsons rear hydro bumps when they are available.These are the rear AOR Timbrens for an 80 series.
They are way to tall, the bracket appears to be just under 4.5" tall & needs to be cut down for anything under a 40" tires. (I believe BoxRocket cut his down to 3")
Box Rocket wrote:
Those look like a great option if you didn't have access to a welder. I had the "normal" 80 series Timbrens with the uber tall rear towers. I cut them down and rewelded to about 3" from the frame to where the rubber starts. So maybe a bit taller than yours. Has worked great with the 37's and being airborne a few times.
Kabanstva Wrote:
Looks like the 100 rear Timbren bracket is also 1.25” (def not 1.5”) and about 5” altogether (metal bracket and rubber bump). I got the Timbrens from Nitro Gear Just Differentials 2 years ago for reference. Sorry pics aren’t great and tape measure slipped (the tip is actually slightly above the bottom of the vehicle’s frame).
Shoredreamer wrote:
I’m seeing 3 options for our 80s, maybe more, on the rear axle department with Timbren Aeon springs
ABSTORLC1, Active Off-Road bumpstop with the super tall metal tower and additional metal cup, using the A515-55 spring, 2,400# bump capacity
TORLC1, SES (towing application) with super tall metal tower, using the A535-65 spring, 6,500# bump capacity
TORSEQ, 100 series rear SES (towing app) with short metal tower, using the A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity
Not sure how this translates into function exactly, other than the fact that the TORSEQ seems like it can take a harder hit than the AOR bump TORLC1.
GW Nugget wrote:
Yep & to add, these are the bolt on non welding "KIT" options:
FRONT:
80 series front AOR #ABSTOFLC1A uses a A00515-55P30 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
80 series front SES #TOFLC1A uses a A00515-65P30 - 4,000 lbs. AEON spring.
REAR:
100 series rear AOR #ABSTORSEQ uses a #A00515-55F60 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
100 series rear SES #TORSEQ uses #A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity AEON spring.
~~~~~~~~
Just for reference on what shoredreamer is communicating:
80 series front AOR #ABSTOFLC1A uses a A00515-55P30 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
Active Off-Road Bumpstops for Toyota Landcruiser - Front Kit
80 series front SES #TOFLC1A uses a A00515-65P30 - 4,000 lbs. AEON spring.
Timbren SES Suspension Enhancement System SKU# TOFLC1A - Front Kit
80 series rear AOR #ABSTORLC1 uses a #A00515-55F60 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
Active Off-Road Bumpstops for Toyota Landcruiser 70 & 80 series - Rear Kit
80 series rear SES #TORLC1 uses a #A00535-65E60 - 6,500 lbs. AEON spring.
Timbren SES Suspension Enhancement System SKU# TORLC1 - Rear Kit
100 series rear AOR #ABSTORSEQ uses a #A00515-55F60 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
Active Off-Road Bump Stops SKU# ABSTORSEQ - Rear Kit
100 series rear SES #TORSEQ uses #A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity AEON spring.
Timbren SES Suspension Enhancement System SKU# TORSEQ - Rear Kit
~~~~~~
Here is a chart I found for the Front/Rear 80 series AOR & the 100 series rear. #A515-55 has a 2,400 lb load cap.
Type: A515-55
Nominal Rated Capacity: 1,000#
Bump Load Capacity: 2,400#
Nominal Height (A): 3-3/4"
Nominal O.D. (B): 3-3/8"
Maximum Deflected Height (C): 1-1/2"
Maximum Deflection (A)-(C): 2-1/4"
Maximum Diameter (D): 4-7/8"
Type: A515-65 is a 80 series SES front AEON spring
Nominal Rated Capacity: 1,500#
Bump Load Capacity: 4,000#
Nominal Height (A): 3-3/4"
Nominal O.D. (B): 3-3/8"
Maximum Deflected Height (C): 1-1/2"
Maximum Deflection (A)-(C): 2-1/4"
Maximum Diameter (D): 4-7/8"
*****chart coming soon******
Here is a chart I found for the 80 series rear SES #TORLC1 uses a #A00535-65E60 - 6,500 lbs. AEON spring.
Type: A535-65
Nominal Rated Capacity: 3,000#
Bump Load Capacity: 6,500#
Nominal Height (A): 5-1/8"
Nominal O.D. (B): 3-5/16"
Maximum Deflected Height (C): 2"
Maximum Deflection (A)-(C): 3-1/8"
Maximum Diameter (D): 6-1/4"
~~~~~~~~~
Found this if you want to DIY your own AEON bump/springs.
More resource info:
ANATOMY OF AN AEON® RUBBER SPRING – PART 3
This is an official Timbren pdf. chart.adv-462e-aeon-springs.pdf - Timbren
Hydro bump stops
The Front:
I Emailed Timbren & got specs for the 80 series AOR bumps.
3.75" free/1.5" compressed/deflected
The front bracket is 1.25" tall.
#A515-65
Last edited:
In reference to above discussion, I remembered I saved this post last year. Makes sense to me for my truck - if the 863 rear drops an inch from 863J, I’ll drop the 2” spacer up front to ~1”.... or do I drop 2” in the rear w/ an 860 and lose the spacer 
decisions for a later date.
decisions for a later date.
I already told you that the 850j/863 (no spacers) is a very nice stance near level, maybe a touch high in the rear which is favorable for cargo weight. ARB calls these springs “heavies” but I was never impressed. A simple weekend camping load pushes them down a quite a bit. If you don’t have, or ever plan to install a heavy rear bumper and don’t plan to carry more than a couple hundred pounds of stuff then mediums might work for you.In reference to above discussion, I remembered I saved this post last year. Makes sense to me for my truck - if the 863 rear drops an inch from 863J, I’ll drop the 2” spacer up front to ~1”.... or do I drop 2” in the rear w/ an 860 and lose the spacer
View attachment 3083555
- Thread starter
- #531
We gave you sound advice, if you must learn the hard way go ahead & install that 220# constant rate coil.
I hated my 860 springs... sat stink bug unloaded then squatted as soon as 2 kids the dog & an ice chest got in the back.
Single rate coils are good for constant loads.
I hated my 860 springs... sat stink bug unloaded then squatted as soon as 2 kids the dog & an ice chest got in the back.
Single rate coils are good for constant loads.
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2005
- Threads
- 73
- Messages
- 1,378
- Location
- Jacksonville Beach, Florida
- Website
- exitoffroad.com
I've wondered forever why they use such a tall bracket on the rear 80 series specific bump stop kit. Especially when they state this:There has been another thread going on about taller OE rear stock 91-92 bump stops that turned into some a alternate Timbren options for the 80 series.
I will leave this here.
Rear Bump Stop Types
For stock rear frame bump stops, I conservatively recommend to lower bumps 1.5" for 35s & 2.5" for 37s. Also knowing a stock frame bump will be approx. 2.5" tall when compressed. We also now know how tall the Timbren AOR bump stop is when compressed is 1.5" compressed. Now we do simple math...
A few folks have shared the rear 100 series AOR bump stop kit #ABSTORSEQ fits the 80 series better than the 80 series kit does.
Shoredreamer wrote:
Timbrens on the rear for me as well. Pretty sure I took the idea from @Corbet
These are the rear AOR Timbrens for an 80 series.
They are way to tall, the bracket appears to be just under 4.5" tall & needs to be cut down for anything under a 40" tires. (I believe BoxRocket cut his down to 3")
Box Rocket wrote:
Those look like a great option if you didn't have access to a welder. I had the "normal" 80 series Timbrens with the uber tall rear towers. I cut them down and rewelded to about 3" from the frame to where the rubber starts. So maybe a bit taller than yours. Has worked great with the 37's and being airborne a few times.
Kabanstva Wrote:
Looks like the 100 rear Timbren bracket is also 1.25” (def not 1.5”) and about 5” altogether (metal bracket and rubber bump). I got the Timbrens from Nitro Gear Just Differentials 2 years ago for reference. Sorry pics aren’t great and tape measure slipped (the tip is actually slightly above the bottom of the vehicle’s frame).
Shoredreamer wrote:
I’m seeing 3 options for our 80s, maybe more, on the rear axle department with Timbren Aeon springs
ABSTORLC1, Active Off-Road bumpstop with the super tall metal tower and additional metal cup, using the A515-55 spring, 2,400# bump capacity
TORLC1, SES (towing application) with super tall metal tower, using the A535-65 spring, 6,500# bump capacity
TORSEQ, 100 series rear SES (towing app) with short metal tower, using the A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity
Not sure how this translates into function exactly, other than the fact that the TORSEQ seems like it can take a harder hit than the AOR bump TORLC1.
GW Nugget wrote:
Yep & to add, these are the bolt on non welding "KIT" options:
FRONT:
80 series front AOR #ABSTOFLC1A uses a A00515-55P30 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
80 series front SES #TOFLC1A uses a A00515-65P30 - 4,000 lbs. AEON spring.
REAR:
100 series rear AOR #ABSTORSEQ uses a #A00515-55F60 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
100 series rear SES #TORSEQ uses #A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity AEON spring.
~~~~~~~~
Just for reference on what shoredreamer is communicating:
80 series front AOR #ABSTOFLC1A uses a A00515-55P30 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
Active Off-Road Bumpstops for Toyota Landcruiser - Front Kit
80 series front SES #TOFLC1A uses a A00515-65P30 - 4,000 lbs. AEON spring.
Timbren SES Suspension Enhancement System SKU# TOFLC1A - Front Kit
80 series rear AOR #ABSTORLC1 uses a #A00515-55F60 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
Active Off-Road Bumpstops for Toyota Landcruiser 70 & 80 series - Rear Kit
80 series rear SES #TORLC1 uses a #A00535-65E60 - 6,500 lbs. AEON spring.
Timbren SES Suspension Enhancement System SKU# TORLC1 - Rear Kit
100 series rear AOR #ABSTORSEQ uses a #A00515-55F60 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
Active Off-Road Bump Stops SKU# ABSTORSEQ - Rear Kit
100 series rear SES #TORSEQ uses #A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity AEON spring.
Timbren SES Suspension Enhancement System SKU# TORSEQ - Rear Kit
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Here is a chart I found for the Front/Rear 80 series AOR & the 100 series rear. #A515-55 has a 2,400 lb load cap.
Type: A515-55
Nominal Rated Capacity: 1,000#
Bump Load Capacity: 2,400#
Nominal Height (A): 3-3/4"
Nominal O.D. (B): 3-3/8"
Maximum Deflected Height (C): 1-1/2"
Maximum Deflection (A)-(C): 2-1/4"
Maximum Diameter (D): 4-7/8"
Type: A515-65 is a 80 series SES front AEON spring
Nominal Rated Capacity: 1,500#
Bump Load Capacity: 4,000#
Nominal Height (A): 3-3/4"
Nominal O.D. (B): 3-3/8"
Maximum Deflected Height (C): 1-1/2"
Maximum Deflection (A)-(C): 2-1/4"
Maximum Diameter (D): 4-7/8"
*****chart coming soon******
Here is a chart I found for the 80 series rear SES #TORLC1 uses a #A00535-65E60 - 6,500 lbs. AEON spring.
Type: A535-65
Nominal Rated Capacity: 3,000#
Bump Load Capacity: 6,500#
Nominal Height (A): 5-1/8"
Nominal O.D. (B): 3-5/16"
Maximum Deflected Height (C): 2"
Maximum Deflection (A)-(C): 3-1/8"
Maximum Diameter (D): 6-1/4"
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Found this if you want to DIY your own AEON bump/springs.
More resource info:
ANATOMY OF AN AEON® RUBBER SPRING – PART 3
This is an official Timbren pdf. chart.
adv-462e-aeon-springs.pdf - Timbren
Hydro bump stops
forum.ih8mud.com
The Front:
I Emailed Timbren & got specs for the 80 series AOR bumps.
3.75" free/1.5" compressed/deflected
The front bracket is 1.25" tall.
View attachment 3082838
#A515-65
View attachment 3082845
ABSTORLC1 replaces the rear OEM bump stops on the Toyota Landcruiser 70 & 80 series. Upgrade to Active Off-road Bumpstops and experience the difference.
- Thread starter
- #533
You might after this consider redirecting the 80 series AOR kit to the 100 series kit. It will save a lot of hassle.
It reads on your website the ABSTORLC1 is "1″ Extended Bump Stop over stock" which is not a true statement.
I am glad I spent the few days learning about the different AEON spring applications that Timbren has to offer.
I actually ordered 2 sets of A530-55 AEON springs which are 1" taller & have .5" more travel. I will DIY my own brackets with square tube & save $400 doing so.
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Okay, I'm pretty sure my truck is running the 3" lift Tourflex springs,, which are coming off as soon as Bilt4me can ship his stock springs to me... anybody interested in these,,, just the springs... they do not pair well with worn out front and rear shocks, lol!
TourFlex & Tough Dog
dist. through Trail Tailor
Trail Tailor carries two brands of suspension lifts from stock height to 6"
TOUGH DOG SUSPENSIONS and TOUR FLEX SPRINGS
Tourflex Lift Installation
3" TOURFLEX (Tapered Wire) SUSPENSION KITS - 80 SERIES
(All TourFlex coils can run up to 26.5" shocks)
948=Front
949=Rear
F = Light Flex 0-660#
HF = Heavy Flex 661-1100#
TDC-948/2F ~ 600/590mm ~ 13.5-16.5mm ~ 12 turns ~ 190/250#
ALL other fronts are a Heavy Flex for use with bumper, winch and add second battery.
Below is 75mm Heavy Flex Front coil springs
Tapered 17mm to 13mm diameter wire design
270/220# Free height 545-535mm (21.45"-21.1")
Pictured below is 75mm TOUR FLEX 80/100 Series Rear
Light Flex 0-660# load range 250/170# Free height 590-580mm (23.23"-22.84")
Heavy Flex 660-1100# load range 320/180# Free height 555-545mm (21.85"-21.46")
50mm TourFlex rear coil springs for 80 series
These will be the same dual rate tapered wire design as my 3" coils.
Pictured is TDC-949/2F
Tourflex vs OEM
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Tough Dog Suspension
Tough Dog 2" Suspension Kit - 80 Series
Stock height coils are NLA, The 25mm is a more common item I usually stock.
1" Front TDC948SL ~ 490/480 ~ 16.5 wire ~ 200/250# ~10 wraps
1" Rear TDC949SL ~ 490/470 ~ 17mm wire ~ 220/280# ~ 8.8 wraps
Convert mm to inches Millimeters to Inches (mm to in) conversion calculator
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Tough Dog Shocks - 80 Series
Trail Tailor Foam Cell Shocks Review
View attachment 1630702
Tough Dog has 40mm & 45mm 9 stage adjustable along with a 41mm foam cell non adjust.
41mm Foam Cell specs:
0-3" lift Front 16.25" - 25.75" (Rec 1" BS)
0-3" Rear 15.50" - 25.50" (Rec 1" BS)
4" lift ???
40mm 9 stage adjustable shocks:
0-3" lift ???
4" lift ???
45mm 9 stage adjustable fronts:
2" lift 16.06"/24.05"/8" (Rec .5" BS)
4" lift 17.12"/25.9"/8.8" (Rec 1.5" BS)
6" lift 17.87"/27.87"/10" (Rec 2.5" BS)
45mm Rear:
2" lift 16.06"/24.05"/8" (Rec 1.5" BS)
4" lift 17.75"/26.53"/8.77" (Rec 3.25 BS)
6" lift 18.92/28.93"/10" (Rec 4.5" BS)
Aussie Shock Comparison Test
www.euro4x4parts.com/images/4wd_action_165_tough_dog.pdf
This is posted by @malteserunner
@malteserunner posted this install What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?Knocked out the rear Tourflex suspension. Everything fit as it should. Very nice quality on these parts!
Obligatory coil comparison. OME 863J and Tourflex 3".
41mm foam cell shocks are made by either Gabriel or Tenneco (Monroe) in the US or Mexico. Then sent to AUS for QA/QC, batch testing and final assembly/packaging.
Mine have Gabriel on the bushing.
OME L front shocks are a bit longer than the 41mm Tough Dog.
And, the springs side by side. Tourflex 3" vs. OME 850J.
Very pleased with @reevesci 's excellent service, great communication, and quality product. Look forward to my next purchase from him, the redneck skid plate.
You can find these suspension pieces here... Featured Products~~~~~~~~~~
@NateMob #s for the 2" heavy TourFlex
948/2HF Front center hub to flare edge, 22.5"
949/2HF Rear center hub to flare edge, 23.5"
35/12.50/17 Goodyear MTRs
@NorCal97 came by this morning and I got to see the 3" TourFlex on his rig with 315s.
Sitting at 24" F and 25" R with a 1" Body Lift.
5 degree castor plates, 41mm fronts and 45mm 9 stage rears, Adjustable RLCAs, 3F rear coils and F & R adjustable panhard bars.
Also, I've been looking for OEM Tokicos, and am finding that they are discontinued.. anybody have a source for a new set at a fair price??
gofast
SILVER Star
Looking to hear from someone that has experience with the Dobinson C59-313. These are DOBINSONS REAR COIL SPRINGS FOR TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 80 SERIES 1990-1997 4.0" LIFT WITH 440-750LBS OF LOAD(C59-313)
Truck weighs 7500 loaded with me in it, full fuel and water, rtt, armor, front and rear bumpers with swing outs, skid, sliders, drawers.
Currently have a tired-in-the-back Ironman 4 inch set of springs. Thinking on going wih Dobinsons. Truck has Slee Front Control arms, double shaft, and adjustable panhard and upper control arms. Caster is excellent.
Thinking I'll keep the current front springs - they seem fine, replace all my OME shocks with New ones..
I'd like to know if anyone has the heavies, what their height was after install, and would like to know if they are as heavy as I am or at least their weight so I can guestimate what my drop will be.
Truck weighs 7500 loaded with me in it, full fuel and water, rtt, armor, front and rear bumpers with swing outs, skid, sliders, drawers.
Currently have a tired-in-the-back Ironman 4 inch set of springs. Thinking on going wih Dobinsons. Truck has Slee Front Control arms, double shaft, and adjustable panhard and upper control arms. Caster is excellent.
Thinking I'll keep the current front springs - they seem fine, replace all my OME shocks with New ones..
I'd like to know if anyone has the heavies, what their height was after install, and would like to know if they are as heavy as I am or at least their weight so I can guestimate what my drop will be.
gofast
SILVER Star
Spent some time with @crikeymike and discussed options. Purchased for all four corners and went with CF59-313 rear and CF 59-312 fronts. If I was to rebuild the truck again I wouldn't have gone four inch. More like 3. but with caster and pinon controlled by slee arms I'm kinda locked. Went with Dobinson as their rated weight is the highest I could find - my trucks stays constantly loaded and cause Mike really helped to inform me on options feel like these are the best for the weight I carry and potential longevity. Purchased here Exit OffRoad
Will report back as to what my actual lift is when installed
Will report back as to what my actual lift is when installed
@gofast
My truck is outside right now and fairly empty at roughly 7400#. I’ll take measurements. Fully loaded it exceeds 8400#.
I have been running the 319 springs with a 30mm spacer in back in this pic. I love the springs. Can handle high speed hard hits and fast curves in the mountains. Tall spring too so can flex well.
Pictured
~7400#
319 w 30mm
144vt front
24.5” rear center of hub to bottom of flare
24” front center of hub to bottom of flare
If I removed the 30mm spacer it will likely be just below 4” of lift in back at your weight (7500#). Again, this setup is killer for a heavy 80.
My truck is outside right now and fairly empty at roughly 7400#. I’ll take measurements. Fully loaded it exceeds 8400#.
I have been running the 319 springs with a 30mm spacer in back in this pic. I love the springs. Can handle high speed hard hits and fast curves in the mountains. Tall spring too so can flex well.
Pictured
~7400#
319 w 30mm
144vt front
24.5” rear center of hub to bottom of flare
24” front center of hub to bottom of flare
If I removed the 30mm spacer it will likely be just below 4” of lift in back at your weight (7500#). Again, this setup is killer for a heavy 80.
gofast
SILVER Star
Thanks ShoreDreamer - going to revise my purchase. Sounds like you've dialed it in! Assuming the rear springs are as old as the fronts? about two years?
gofast
SILVER Star
Botched the purchase. I had both Dobinson Direct and Exit Offroad browser tabs open and went through the incorrect site. Cancelled my order with Dobinson Direct as I really wanted to keep my Karma and Mike is such a help. And went with what he recommended (rear only given my hub height measurements. Purchased the C97-145VT. Product description describes my truck:
- Lifts 3.5″ with full rear bumper, tire carrier, roof rack, drawers, 2nd tank, etc.
Resurrecting from the dead this old thread and here is yet another lift question...
I am chasing 37s for an early FJ80 '90 mall crawler with 3FE.
For a few days, I am reading about lift setups, going through photos, and finally made my decision thanks to Mud! I am planning to go with OME springs and OME L shocks.
Unfortunately few questions are hauling me that seems I can't find answers to...
1. Is it true that the early 80s with the semi-floating axle have different/lower spring mounts that will sit the lift lower than expected? I am referring to this post here on Mud.
2. Thanks to @GW Nugget and his blog I will try to achieve a leveled build with 850J / 863 or 850J + 30mm / 863J. The question is what will be the difference apart from being an inch taller? I am not planning on putting armor, bumpers, and carrying a crazy heavy Aussie luggage so do I really need the Js with the spacer on the fronts, or 850J/863 will be more than good to go?
I am chasing 37s for an early FJ80 '90 mall crawler with 3FE.
For a few days, I am reading about lift setups, going through photos, and finally made my decision thanks to Mud! I am planning to go with OME springs and OME L shocks.
Unfortunately few questions are hauling me that seems I can't find answers to...
1. Is it true that the early 80s with the semi-floating axle have different/lower spring mounts that will sit the lift lower than expected? I am referring to this post here on Mud.
2. Thanks to @GW Nugget and his blog I will try to achieve a leveled build with 850J / 863 or 850J + 30mm / 863J. The question is what will be the difference apart from being an inch taller? I am not planning on putting armor, bumpers, and carrying a crazy heavy Aussie luggage so do I really need the Js with the spacer on the fronts, or 850J/863 will be more than good to go?
