Compiled 80 series suspension component spec thread... shocks, coils & more. (3 Viewers)

jaymar

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These look like the best solution to our castor problem, they should be lift specific though. Anyone tried them?
If you plan to run sliders, check the mounting points. Some attach where drop-brackets need to go, so you can't run both. Radius arms don't have this issue.
 
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I’ve seen this come up a couple other times, but don’t recall if it quite answered the question. My bad if it’s somewhere in this thread. Might be a long way to ask a simple question. Truck has J springs with 2” spacer up front to make it level (pretty dead-on at all 4 corners). Depending what the agreed-upon stock measurements are, I’d say it’s 4.5”. Came this way and I don’t mind it, but would prefer a standard 2.5-3” setup with my 315s. Has caster plates that I assume were correct for front J springs w/o the spacer. Truck drives & tracks great either way & to my knowledge they confirmed caster within spec at the time, though I don’t have the numbers. I understand generally how height affects geometry, so that’s not really my question.

Simply put, given current setup, is it likely it will still be good if I go down to 2.5-3” (a 1.5-2” drop)? Or: with a kit that’s made for 3.5, am I still good at 2.5-3? Feels like a dumb question when putting it that way, but..

Springs are in fine shape, so I’d *hope* it’s as simple as swapping the rears and losing the front spacer. Maybe fine tune the front with a small spacer if necessary, depending on rear result. It has almost all other parts to correct the lift - only thing they didn’t do was DC front shaft (I have confirmed current angles for using one), and I added a 3” rear panhard bracket.

Even if we can say caster/etc will still be good, certainly wouldn’t hurt to have it checked and aligned again either way. I understand you won’t know for sure unless you do it, and that they don’t all behave exactly the same.

If it’s good to go, I’ll select an appropriate rear spring to net a ~23” measurement.
 
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jaymar

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Not sure about a lot of that, but if you're running a PO's non-standard driveshafts (which might not be obvious at a glance), I'm guessing a change in height could really screw you up. Also check the LSPV height, and make sure extended brake lines don't get in the way of anything after lowering.
 
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baldilocks

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I’ve seen this come up a couple other times, but don’t recall if it quite answered the question. My bad if it’s somewhere in this thread. Might be a long way to ask a simple question. Truck has J springs with 2” spacer up front to make it level (pretty dead-on at all 4 corners). Depending what the agreed-upon stock measurements are, I’d say it’s 4.5”. Came this way and I don’t mind it, but would prefer a standard 2.5-3” setup with my 315s. Has caster plates that I assume were correct for front J springs w/o the spacer. Truck drives & tracks great either way & to my knowledge they confirmed caster within spec at the time, though I don’t have the numbers. I understand generally how height affects geometry, so that’s not really my question.

Simply put, given current setup, is it likely it will still be good if I go down to 2.5-3” (a 1.5-2” drop)? Or: with a kit that’s made for 3.5, am I still good at 2.5-3? Feels like a dumb question when putting it that way, but..

Springs are in fine shape, so I’d *hope* it’s as simple as swapping the rears and losing the front spacer. Maybe fine tune the front with a small spacer if necessary, depending on rear result. It has almost all other parts to correct the lift - only thing they didn’t do was DC front shaft (I have confirmed current angles for using one), and I added a 3” rear panhard bracket.

Even if we can say caster/etc will still be good, certainly wouldn’t hurt to have it checked and aligned again either way. I understand you won’t know for sure unless you do it, and that they don’t all behave exactly the same.

If it’s good to go, I’ll select an appropriate rear spring to net a ~23” measurement.
The short answer is yes, things will be fine after you drop 2” and probably better. If you plan to keep the 850j springs up front after removing the spacer then the standard 863 will give you a very close to level stance to slightly higher in the rear when the rig is unloaded. This is the first lift combo I ever ran several years ago. Note that I did have sliders and heavier 4x4Labs rear bumper and light weight tube bumper with winch up front.

Your caster is probably deficient right now but will be ideal once you remove the front spacer. How old are your castor plates? Do you know the brand? This set up should run nicely with a front DC shaft.
 
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Thanks both. I probably said a lot that made it sound more complicated, as usual...

Current shafts are stock but I’ve replaced all the joints with Koyo.. if anything it should improve when it comes down a little, though I expect I’ll still be a candidate for DC because of the caster plates. Rear shaft angles are fine and no vibration, but front gives me light vibes due to the joint at TC. Front joint measures <1°. Preference would be a Toyota-built DC, but I’m sure I’d do just fine with tom woods. No shaft shops around here, so doing Toyota myself not as likely.

Extended lines appear to be a good length for current lift and also going a little lower, although I still need to replace one of them that had been rubbing on the front tire at full lock because of how they let it curve - the braided outer has a little fraying in one spot, but line itself is solid. I got it out of the way for now. I have a replacement I haven’t put in yet.

I doubt they touched the LSPV but will check that.

I think you’ll be right about caster. It feels fine now, but would expect a slight improvement. We’ll find out after another alignment check.

Based on vehicle history and other clues (date stamp on the 315s it came with, obviously installed at time of lift), the kit was put on in 2012 right before it came up to Juneau. I bought it in 2020 right before prices jumped. It’s only been a DD so nothing has been beat around or flexed much.. everything still looks really good, so I’m not worried about having to replace anything else, but who knows. Don’t know caster plate brand, but how many were available 10 years ago? They look like the common options everyone uses. For the spacers and swaybar drops/etc they used metaltech.

863 non-j is what I was thinking, but that may only drop me 1” or so? I actually like the stiffer ride for my use, but may be better to go with medium since I am almost always unloaded, and only light load otherwise. My 18ft skiff tongue weight is quite light so I don’t need heavies for that either. I’m down for a slight rake if it ends up that way, but small spacers are cheap.

Not rushing on any of this, just thinking ahead. I’d also like to pull the running boards & put on front mud guards I have in the garage, but they’re pretty functional right now at this height, hah. Thanks again.
 

GW Nugget

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@SpenserAK Like baldilocks wrote the OME 85J/863, Ls & caster plates hybrid combo have been a main go to lift for well over 20 years.
But why not try a dual rate rear coil? :meh:
863J has a rate of 265#, an 863 has a rate of 250#
As far as lift the 863 is generally around 3.5" of lift then the 863J is approx. 1" taller.
To match the 850J which generally nets 3.5" of lift (23.5" center of hub to bottom of flare).
I would look for a 3" heavy rear coil to match the 850J front coil. Something around 250-280# rate.
Dobinson has 3" rear C97-145VT 180/270/340# rate
Trail Tailor Tough Dog 949L 2" lift plus 30mm spacer 220/280# (I have these & like them better then the last 4 sets of rear coils I've had)
The OME 866 2" lift plus 30mm spacer 240/300# rate
Dobinson 2" rear plus 25mm C97-147VT 160/215/285# rate
Some folks don't like rear spacers, but I like running rear spacers because it gives a bit of extra cushion plus allows to lower the rear incase the actual lift is taller than advertised.
20171224_072521-png.1597043



1660011974865.png


Happy Trails
 
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Thanks for sharing that again. Don’t want you guys to do too much work providing information that’s already well covered, but always appreciated. Consistently most helpful forum I’ve experienced.

On my otherwise pretty stock truck (keeping in mind these are 10 years old, but not abused), the rear J alone has me at 24.75, and front is the same with the 2” metal spacer, suggesting the spring alone is getting me 22.75, which I thought was interesting early on. I don’t see an isolator in there though. I think you’re right about what I need.... I’ll likely make it easy for myself & go 863, then adjust front spacer if necessary & call it a day. Even a 1” drop is fine by me.

I joke that I have no business owning a cruiser, considering what they’re built for. Still want quality products, but I fall on the price-conscious end of things vs higher performance, so OME coils are probably easiest for me. I always have to consider AK shipping too, and they are sometimes available through prime. Of course, I say this without having driven an 80 with a more modern & performance-oriented setup.

Sidenote - due to the local terrain, there is no actual offroading in Juneau outside of two limited quad areas, but the local club is working hard to organize a new area with the city that may open up some opportunities, all under volunteer power. There are more opportunities just north in Haines, and north of that in Canada, but the cost of a ferry ticket and other necessities to get there in the first place is prohibitive.

Either way, before this comes my knuckles, power steering, and should probably take care of my built in “rust prevention” up front 🙄

Saving your comments as this was helpful
 
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GW Nugget

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There has been another thread going on about taller OE rear stock 91-92 bump stops that turned into some a alternate Timbren options for the 80 series.
I will leave this here.

A few folks have shared the rear 100 series AOR bump stop kit #ABSTORSEQ fits the 80 series better than the 80 series kit does.
Shoredreamer wrote:
Timbrens on the rear for me as well. Pretty sure I took the idea from @Corbet :cheers:Used the 100 series model and spaced it down with @Hitit66 frame bump spacer. Matches well with the 17.5” compressed shocks and 35s I run. The Timbrens basically are replacing both the stock frame bump and coil bumper. Waiting to get the Dobinsons rear hydro bumps when they are available.

65F36A16-EAE5-4812-899A-8425BE6CCB12.jpeg

E87E7627-7D1C-4FA5-B9D5-DC23961B78A9.jpeg

These are the rear AOR Timbrens for an 80 series.
They are way to tall, the bracket appears to be just under 4.5" tall & needs to be cut down for anything under a 40" tires. (I believe BoxRocket cut his down to 3")
Screenshot_20220720-222050.jpg

Box Rocket wrote:
Those look like a great option if you didn't have access to a welder. I had the "normal" 80 series Timbrens with the uber tall rear towers. I cut them down and rewelded to about 3" from the frame to where the rubber starts. So maybe a bit taller than yours. Has worked great with the 37's and being airborne a few times. :)

Kabanstva Wrote:
Looks like the 100 rear Timbren bracket is also 1.25” (def not 1.5”) and about 5” altogether (metal bracket and rubber bump). I got the Timbrens from Nitro Gear Just Differentials 2 years ago for reference. Sorry pics aren’t great and tape measure slipped (the tip is actually slightly above the bottom of the vehicle’s frame).

A58FBCB7-CE6B-42F3-89AD-13CB807665D8.jpeg



B86B819D-0EA6-47B4-9F91-C8106899AB7B.jpeg


Shoredreamer wrote:
I’m seeing 3 options for our 80s, maybe more, on the rear axle department with Timbren Aeon springs
ABSTORLC1, Active Off-Road bumpstop with the super tall metal tower and additional metal cup, using the A515-55 spring, 2,400# bump capacity
TORLC1, SES (towing application) with super tall metal tower, using the A535-65 spring, 6,500# bump capacity
TORSEQ, 100 series rear SES (towing app) with short metal tower, using the A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity
Not sure how this translates into function exactly, other than the fact that the TORSEQ seems like it can take a harder hit than the AOR bump TORLC1.

GW Nugget wrote:
Yep & to add, these are the bolt on non welding "KIT" options:
FRONT:
80 series front AOR #ABSTOFLC1A uses a A00515-55P30 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
80 series front SES #TOFLC1A uses a A00515-65P30 - 4,000 lbs. AEON spring.
REAR:
100 series rear AOR #ABSTORSEQ uses a #A00515-55F60 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
100 series rear SES #TORSEQ uses #A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity AEON spring.
~~~~~~~~

Just for reference on what shoredreamer is communicating:

80 series front AOR #ABSTOFLC1A uses a A00515-55P30 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
Active Off-Road Bumpstops for Toyota Landcruiser - Front Kit
1659774549223.png


80 series front SES #TOFLC1A uses a A00515-65P30 - 4,000 lbs. AEON spring.
Timbren SES Suspension Enhancement System SKU# TOFLC1A - Front Kit
1659774922284.png


80 series rear AOR #ABSTORLC1 uses a #A00515-55F60 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
Active Off-Road Bumpstops for Toyota Landcruiser 70 & 80 series - Rear Kit
1659774831252.png


80 series rear SES #TORLC1 uses a #A00535-65E60 - 6,500 lbs. AEON spring.
Timbren SES Suspension Enhancement System SKU# TORLC1 - Rear Kit
1659773926503.png


100 series rear AOR #ABSTORSEQ uses a #A00515-55F60 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
Active Off-Road Bump Stops SKU# ABSTORSEQ - Rear Kit
1659775707347.png


100 series rear SES #TORSEQ uses #A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity AEON spring.
Timbren SES Suspension Enhancement System SKU# TORSEQ - Rear Kit
1659775787971.png


~~~~~~
Here is a chart I found for the Front/Rear 80 series AOR & the 100 series rear. #A515-55 has a 2,400 lb load cap.
Type: A515-55
Nominal Rated Capacity: 1,000#
Bump Load Capacity: 2,400#
Nominal Height (A): 3-3/4"
Nominal O.D. (B): 3-3/8"
Maximum Deflected Height (C): 1-1/2"
Maximum Deflection (A)-(C): 2-1/4"
Maximum Diameter (D): 4-7/8"
Screenshot_20220805-174640.jpg


Type: A515-65 is a 80 series SES front AEON spring
Nominal Rated Capacity: 1,500#
Bump Load Capacity: 4,000#
Nominal Height (A): 3-3/4"
Nominal O.D. (B): 3-3/8"
Maximum Deflected Height (C): 1-1/2"
Maximum Deflection (A)-(C): 2-1/4"
Maximum Diameter (D): 4-7/8"

*****chart coming soon******

Here is a chart I found for the 80 series rear SES #TORLC1 uses a #A00535-65E60 - 6,500 lbs. AEON spring.
Type: A535-65
Nominal Rated Capacity: 3,000#
Bump Load Capacity: 6,500#
Nominal Height (A): 5-1/8"
Nominal O.D. (B): 3-5/16"
Maximum Deflected Height (C): 2"
Maximum Deflection (A)-(C): 3-1/8"
Maximum Diameter (D): 6-1/4"
1659786064057.png





~~~~~~~~~

Found this if you want to DIY your own AEON bump/springs.

Timbren aeon double chart.jpg

More resource info:

ANATOMY OF AN AEON® RUBBER SPRING – PART 3

This is an official Timbren pdf. chart.

adv-462e-aeon-springs.pdf - Timbren


Hydro bump stops
forum.ih8mud.com
forum.ih8mud.com

The Front:
I Emailed Timbren & got specs for the 80 series AOR bumps.
3.75" free/1.5" compressed/deflected
The front bracket is 1.25" tall.
20220809_205551.jpg

#A515-65
20220806_223042.jpg
 
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In reference to above discussion, I remembered I saved this post last year. Makes sense to me for my truck - if the 863 rear drops an inch from 863J, I’ll drop the 2” spacer up front to ~1”.... or do I drop 2” in the rear w/ an 860 and lose the spacer 🤔 decisions for a later date.

E003E470-B543-42DF-8E9B-954EFC11E2BB.png
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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In reference to above discussion, I remembered I saved this post last year. Makes sense to me for my truck - if the 863 rear drops an inch from 863J, I’ll drop the 2” spacer up front to ~1”.... or do I drop 2” in the rear w/ an 860 and lose the spacer 🤔 decisions for a later date.

View attachment 3083555
I already told you that the 850j/863 (no spacers) is a very nice stance near level, maybe a touch high in the rear which is favorable for cargo weight. ARB calls these springs “heavies” but I was never impressed. A simple weekend camping load pushes them down a quite a bit. If you don’t have, or ever plan to install a heavy rear bumper and don’t plan to carry more than a couple hundred pounds of stuff then mediums might work for you.
 

GW Nugget

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We gave you sound advice, if you must learn the hard way go ahead & install that 220# constant rate coil.
I hated my 860 springs... sat stink bug unloaded then squatted as soon as 2 kids the dog & an ice chest got in the back.
Single rate coils are good for constant loads.
 

crikeymike

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There has been another thread going on about taller OE rear stock 91-92 bump stops that turned into some a alternate Timbren options for the 80 series.
I will leave this here.

A few folks have shared the rear 100 series AOR bump stop kit #ABSTORSEQ fits the 80 series better than the 80 series kit does.
Shoredreamer wrote:
Timbrens on the rear for me as well. Pretty sure I took the idea from @Corbet :cheers:Used the 100 series model and spaced it down with @Hitit66 frame bump spacer. Matches well with the 17.5” compressed shocks and 35s I run. The Timbrens basically are replacing both the stock frame bump and coil bumper. Waiting to get the Dobinsons rear hydro bumps when they are available.

65F36A16-EAE5-4812-899A-8425BE6CCB12.jpeg

E87E7627-7D1C-4FA5-B9D5-DC23961B78A9.jpeg

These are the rear AOR Timbrens for an 80 series.
They are way to tall, the bracket appears to be just under 4.5" tall & needs to be cut down for anything under a 40" tires. (I believe BoxRocket cut his down to 3")
Screenshot_20220720-222050.jpg

Box Rocket wrote:
Those look like a great option if you didn't have access to a welder. I had the "normal" 80 series Timbrens with the uber tall rear towers. I cut them down and rewelded to about 3" from the frame to where the rubber starts. So maybe a bit taller than yours. Has worked great with the 37's and being airborne a few times. :)

Kabanstva Wrote:
Looks like the 100 rear Timbren bracket is also 1.25” (def not 1.5”) and about 5” altogether (metal bracket and rubber bump). I got the Timbrens from Nitro Gear Just Differentials 2 years ago for reference. Sorry pics aren’t great and tape measure slipped (the tip is actually slightly above the bottom of the vehicle’s frame).

A58FBCB7-CE6B-42F3-89AD-13CB807665D8.jpeg



B86B819D-0EA6-47B4-9F91-C8106899AB7B.jpeg


Shoredreamer wrote:
I’m seeing 3 options for our 80s, maybe more, on the rear axle department with Timbren Aeon springs
ABSTORLC1, Active Off-Road bumpstop with the super tall metal tower and additional metal cup, using the A515-55 spring, 2,400# bump capacity
TORLC1, SES (towing application) with super tall metal tower, using the A535-65 spring, 6,500# bump capacity
TORSEQ, 100 series rear SES (towing app) with short metal tower, using the A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity
Not sure how this translates into function exactly, other than the fact that the TORSEQ seems like it can take a harder hit than the AOR bump TORLC1.

GW Nugget wrote:
Yep & to add, these are the bolt on non welding "KIT" options:
FRONT:
80 series front AOR #ABSTOFLC1A uses a A00515-55P30 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
80 series front SES #TOFLC1A uses a A00515-65P30 - 4,000 lbs. AEON spring.
REAR:
100 series rear AOR #ABSTORSEQ uses a #A00515-55F60 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
100 series rear SES #TORSEQ uses #A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity AEON spring.
~~~~~~~~

Just for reference on what shoredreamer is communicating:

80 series front AOR #ABSTOFLC1A uses a A00515-55P30 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
Active Off-Road Bumpstops for Toyota Landcruiser - Front Kit
1659774549223.png


80 series front SES #TOFLC1A uses a A00515-65P30 - 4,000 lbs. AEON spring.
Timbren SES Suspension Enhancement System SKU# TOFLC1A - Front Kit
1659774922284.png


80 series rear AOR #ABSTORLC1 uses a #A00515-55F60 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
Active Off-Road Bumpstops for Toyota Landcruiser 70 & 80 series - Rear Kit
1659774831252.png


80 series rear SES #TORLC1 uses a #A00535-65E60 - 6,500 lbs. AEON spring.
Timbren SES Suspension Enhancement System SKU# TORLC1 - Rear Kit
1659773926503.png


100 series rear AOR #ABSTORSEQ uses a #A00515-55F60 - 2,400 lbs. AEON spring.
Active Off-Road Bump Stops SKU# ABSTORSEQ - Rear Kit
1659775707347.png


100 series rear SES #TORSEQ uses #A550-65 spring, 11,500# bump capacity AEON spring.
Timbren SES Suspension Enhancement System SKU# TORSEQ - Rear Kit
1659775787971.png


~~~~~~
Here is a chart I found for the Front/Rear 80 series AOR & the 100 series rear. #A515-55 has a 2,400 lb load cap.
Type: A515-55
Nominal Rated Capacity: 1,000#
Bump Load Capacity: 2,400#
Nominal Height (A): 3-3/4"
Nominal O.D. (B): 3-3/8"
Maximum Deflected Height (C): 1-1/2"
Maximum Deflection (A)-(C): 2-1/4"
Maximum Diameter (D): 4-7/8"
Screenshot_20220805-174640.jpg


Type: A515-65 is a 80 series SES front AEON spring
Nominal Rated Capacity: 1,500#
Bump Load Capacity: 4,000#
Nominal Height (A): 3-3/4"
Nominal O.D. (B): 3-3/8"
Maximum Deflected Height (C): 1-1/2"
Maximum Deflection (A)-(C): 2-1/4"
Maximum Diameter (D): 4-7/8"

*****chart coming soon******

Here is a chart I found for the 80 series rear SES #TORLC1 uses a #A00535-65E60 - 6,500 lbs. AEON spring.
Type: A535-65
Nominal Rated Capacity: 3,000#
Bump Load Capacity: 6,500#
Nominal Height (A): 5-1/8"
Nominal O.D. (B): 3-5/16"
Maximum Deflected Height (C): 2"
Maximum Deflection (A)-(C): 3-1/8"
Maximum Diameter (D): 6-1/4"
1659786064057.png





~~~~~~~~~

Found this if you want to DIY your own AEON bump/springs.

Timbren aeon double chart.jpg

More resource info:

ANATOMY OF AN AEON® RUBBER SPRING – PART 3

This is an official Timbren pdf. chart.

adv-462e-aeon-springs.pdf - Timbren


Hydro bump stops
forum.ih8mud.com
forum.ih8mud.com

The Front:
I Emailed Timbren & got specs for the 80 series AOR bumps.
3.75" free/1.5" compressed/deflected
The front bracket is 1.25" tall.
View attachment 3082838
#A515-65
View attachment 3082845
I've wondered forever why they use such a tall bracket on the rear 80 series specific bump stop kit. Especially when they state this:

ABSTORLC1 replaces the rear OEM bump stops on the Toyota Landcruiser 70 & 80 series. Upgrade to Active Off-road Bumpstops and experience the difference.
 

GW Nugget

Do the best you can with what you have...
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I've wondered forever why they use such a tall bracket on the rear 80 series specific bump stop kit. Especially when they state this:

ABSTORLC1 replaces the rear OEM bump stops on the Toyota Landcruiser 70 & 80 series. Upgrade to Active Off-road Bumpstops and experience the difference.
You might after this consider redirecting the 80 series AOR kit to the 100 series kit. It will save a lot of hassle.
It reads on your website the ABSTORLC1 is "1″ Extended Bump Stop over stock" which is not a true statement.

I am glad I spent the few days learning about the different AEON spring applications that Timbren has to offer.
I actually ordered 2 sets of A530-55 AEON springs which are 1" taller & have .5" more travel. I will DIY my own brackets with square tube & save $400 doing so.
 
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