Builds A girl named Paul (13 Viewers)

[RevISK]

Finally bought and installed an FPR I found from searching around here. I loathe Amazon but had been watching this part and it dropped down pretty significantly to $106. The majority of my hesitation was the $135+ price tag before. The truck starts and runs much better BUT... I did replace all of the silicone nipples from desmog (every one failed within a year. I bought "the" kit here) as well so I am thinking those contributed as well.

 

[majdomo]

This is the one on my rig, it's the right one according to all the research but didn't notice much difference personally. It's just nice to have it done.

 

[RevISK]

This is the one on my rig, it's the right one according to all the research but didn't notice much difference personally. It's just nice to have it done.

Yeah, probably due more to tidying up the desmog nipples. As I alluded, the ones I got with "the" desmog kit here were all but disintegrated in under a year. Cheap part but disappointing nonetheless. I cut little sections of my old hose, bent it back on itself and ziptied them to create my own caps. These will likely last a lot longer.

I'd rather the $115 (tax) part be the one that made the truck run better but if the free one did, I'm fine with it. I am glad to have done it and will throw the old one in the trail spares kit.

 

[RevISK]

Tidied up nipples:

 

[clrussell]

Tidied up nipples:

View attachment 3897387

Bdsm much?

 

[RevISK]

I’m on the road for work. In Paul the 62. At a stoplight on the way back to my lodging I noticed my ALT needle was bouncing around a bunch. Above 13 and change to the 14’s.
Bouncy bouncy.
After I took off it stopped doing it even at the next light.

Thoughts?

 

[CruiserTrash]

I’m on the road for work. In Paul the 62. At a stoplight on the way back to my lodging I noticed my ALT needle was bouncing around a bunch. Above 13 and change to the 14’s.
Bouncy bouncy.
After I took off it stopped doing it even at the next light.

Thoughts?

View attachment 3905136

Voltage gauge?

Mine bounces a super super small amount. Never figured out why.

 

[RevISK]

Voltage gauge?

Mine bounces a super super small amount. Never figured out why.

Yeah. It was bouncing pretty good. Just for that stop though. Never have seen that behavior.

 

[majdomo]

May be time for an alternator rebuild. Sounds like a voltage regulator issue, possibly bad diode(s). It's practically part of my baselining on any new-to-me rig at this point.

 

[clrussell]

Turn your damn beat box Down.

 

[RevISK]

Turn your damn beat box Down.

My truck has more rattles than a pit of diamondbacks. It's a zero sum game between the blown speakers and the rattle fest.

 

[Beams37]

When I was having voltage regulator issues, I was getting the same problem. Eventually the stereo started cutting in and out and I would get like 16-18V.

 

[RevISK]

Seemed to self correct on the way to work. Haven't seen it before and it behaved this morning. My little cig plug gauge was bouncing in time with the anomaly yesterday, glad I have this bit of info. Need to start hunting for an alt I think.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Seemed to self correct on the way to work. Haven't seen it before and it behaved this morning. My little cig plug gauge was bouncing in time with the anomaly yesterday, glad I have this bit of info. Need to start hunting for an alt I think.

View attachment 3905321

My accurate voltage gauge bounces with the stock gauge too. It has a range of about 0.5V. Interestingly the gauge for the second battery doesn't even flinch - and the two batteries are directly connected with 0awg cable. The aftermarket gauge for the main battery (or really for the "system") is tapped off the cigarette lighter wiring, and the second battery gauge is tapped directly off the battery so that might explain some of the difference. I've considered three gauges: one from each battery positive post, and one from the main feed to the cabin fuse panel. Then I could REALLY see what's going on. The stock gauge gets its feed from the plug on the back of the alternator I believe. So you'd be monitoring voltages at all the critical points.

Next time yours acts goofy, put a multimeter in a few places. Maybe across the battery, from the alternator B+ post to ground, etc. Move it around and see what changes. That's something I've been thinking I should do.

 

[RevISK]

Updates…

Alternator is continuing to behave, don’t know. Anomaly I suppose. I did locate a used, “working” one from the appropriate year 3FE I’ll grab as a back up.

Prepping for a trip with my boy next week, heading to south east NM and will wander from there. Will explore some of the BDR and just go where our noses take us. This will kick my butt into getting more done for SAS.

Did get my under hood bus/fuse panel mounted and wired in for a few accessories like the already installed compressor as well as my aux lights, an additional outlet in the cabin and power to my new to me BMW 3 series seats. Snagged them for $150 for the pair. Got the wiring figured out mostly, but t there is an annoying time out period I need to figure out.

Definitely looking forward to some semblance of comfort.

Also, had a fun driveway work party yesterday with Jimmy and Galen (@CenTXFJ60 and @bottombracket ). Wrapping up some work on Galen’s truck while I futzed with my wiring. FJ60/61/62 on hand.

 

[RevISK]

Got the compressor hooked up and about 2/3rd through fabing the passenger side mounting brackets for the seats.

 

[toy_tek]

Does the Volt gauge fluctuate with the turn signal on? Mine does.

You’ll love the BMW seats. You can wire in a “power-on” switch for them, as you found, the driver side will time out after a minute or so… if you keep the power switch off normally then just turn it on to make an adjustment it works just fine. I used the rear heater circuit (and relay) for the seat power (after removing the heater).

 

[RevISK]

Does the Volt gauge fluctuate with the turn signal on? Mine does.

You’ll love the BMW seats. You can wire in a “power-on” switch for them, as you found, the driver side will time out after a minute or so… if you keep the power switch off normally then just turn it on to make an adjustment it works just fine. I used the rear heater circuit (and relay) for the seat power (after removing the heater).

The needle does wag, but not like that. they were pretty wide swings. Haven't seen anything like it before or since.

I'm pretty fired up about the seats, my DS is brutal after a 1/2 hour or so. I got to sit in the PS when roughing it in and it sure is nice.
So far I have been making adjustments using one of my drill batteries, It's so convenient. I did find an off-road light wiring harness "Y" made of what looks like 10 gauge wire. I'll use that from my new underwood fuse panel with custom heat shield (until I find something better). Keeping the rear heater but do need help wiring the heater part in the seat, found all the other wires though.

 

[BurntToast]

Does the Volt gauge fluctuate with the turn signal on? Mine does.

You’ll love the BMW seats. You can wire in a “power-on” switch for them, as you found, the driver side will time out after a minute or so… if you keep the power switch off normally then just turn it on to make an adjustment it works just fine. I used the rear heater circuit (and relay) for the seat power (after removing the heater).

Or you can wire in a 555 timer, then it never kicks off.

Builds - BurntToast's FJ62 Build "Hoss"

I am a proud Sequoia owner, but thoroughly enjoying this build! I love the attention to detail and not making it outlandish. Looking forward to more!

forum.ih8mud.com

Full wiring diagram here if interested