Builds A girl named Paul (1 Viewer)

[RevISK]

I’m at a loss for what to do now.

Put this baby to rest and get back to my 40 I guess.

 

[bcolvin]

Naw throw in some shims and see how it goes. Worst case scenario you are out a few bucks. It’s a bit of a pain but go for it.

 

[RevISK]

Naw throw in some shims and see how it goes. Worst case scenario you are out a few bucks. It’s a bit of a pain but go for it.

I just pulled the 4* shims out while the driveshaft was getting worked on. It is a pain. If I put them back in I’ll be about 3.5* out of parallel, flange wise.

I wish I would’ve waited to pull the shims until after I put the refreshed ds in. Oh well.

 

[RevISK]

So now I’m wondering if the phasing is incorrect.
When I pulled the ds the yokes were 90* from each other, as I’m researching I’m finding the opposite is true according to the FSM. For some dumb reason, my copy of the FSM lists the Propeller Shaft section but it’s greyed out and not included.


How it was prior to pulling.

From another thread

I really thought I read that they were supposed to be offset but here we are

 

[1911]

Looks to me like they are 90 degrees out of phase. Assemble the drive shaft exactly as the manual shows; that is the correct phasing.

 

[RevISK]

Looks to me like they are 90 degrees out of phase. Assemble the drive shaft exactly as the manual shows; that is the correct phasing.

It’s how it was in there so I Ass-u-me’d it was correct. I’ve just 90’d them and about to take it for a spin… wish me luck.

 

[RevISK]

It’s how it was in there so I Ass-u-me’d it was correct. I’ve just 90’d them and about to take it for a spin… wish me luck.

Sweet Jeebus on a popsicle stick. Unsurprisingly, the vibration is gone. Never ever trust a PO’s work.

On the plus side, I know a butt ton more about driveline geometry.

 

[4runner2FJ60]

The angles just need to match, if tcase output flange is 2* down, diff flange needs 2* up.

 

[RevISK]

Alright. Banner day. Finally figured out my boggy idle issue. Not exactly sure what fixed it and I really don’t care. Adjusted valves, replaced PCV and grommet, new valve cover gasket and bam, she runs like a top after another round of timing.

Steady vac at 19. Purrs like a kitten meow.

I adjusted the TPS so many times hoping for some magic but the above did it.

“Edited to correct VCV to PCV”

 

[RevISK]

Next question:

Is there any desire for this original roof rack? Believe it was a dealer installed option.

I’m going to pull it off and RTV some stainless screws in and eventually install my ARB Baserack from my truck topper.

 

[SteveH]

As far as this forum knows, there are no 'factory' racks - only generic dealer-added junk. Likely valued as scrap, unless you know a desperate person with an Oldsmobile station wagon.

If you caulk some screws into the holes, keep an eye out for rust forming under the caulk over time. UV light is hard on caulk.

 

[RevISK]

As far as this forum knows, there are no 'factory' racks - only generic dealer-added junk. Likely valued as scrap, unless you know a desperate person with an Oldsmobile station wagon.

If you caulk some screws into the holes, keep an eye out for rust forming under the caulk over time. UV light is hard on caulk.

I only meant original to the truck and did say it was likely dealer installed.

I’ve used UV resistant urethane sealant on aluminum travel trailers and RTV on the roof rack on my truck. Both have held up for many years. I would never just “caulk” the holes.

Ok, so one vote for: no one would want this

 

[RevISK]

Howdy, it’s been a bit.

Couple things happening here so I’ll summarize:

- Did a valve adjustment and replaced the PCV and grommet = truck runs sooo much better and the bog is gone. Also got my vac up to a steady 19.
Will readjust the valves here soon just as a matter of course.

- Rodney flushed = holy cow, she shifts so much better, super smoove now. The fluid was toast. Easy and well worth the small effort and expense. Will be installing a transmission cooler soon.

- made a quick and dirty tailgate cover out of 1/4” ply. The carpet was fine but the masonite was pretty floppy and cracked. Used 5mm rivnuts in the existing holes. Worked great.

- got new shoes and swapped out the hideous Black Rock wheels. Went with 31x11.5r15 as I had a brand new one that was a spare from my 40. Use some bedlinered wagon wheels that are narrower so the sidewalls got sucked in a bit. I think it’s a good size for now. Certainly a better look and safer than running tires that had a 2013 build date.

Other than that, finalized a deal with the now PO.
Hitting the title place tomorrow.

 

[RevISK]

So, I’ve got a thing going on I’d like some opinions about…

When I fill up the truck with gas, she won’t start for a few minutes. If I let her sit for a bit, she fires right up. 5-10 minutes or thereabouts. Starts fine in every other situation. I have my theory but would like some untainted thoughts.

Thanks y’all.

Ian

 

[RevISK]

Well, she’s finally mine.

We worked out a great deal based on the condition I picked her up in.

Just got back from the title place getting registered and TT&L all done.

We’re now legal and bonded together by the state.

Now I can change her name from Billy Goat to something better and more appropriate.

 

[RevISK]

These just arrived and look identical in every way down to the part numbers on the back. Sold in pairs and very reasonably priced.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09FH7L1VH?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

[RevISK]

A couple things. Billy Goat is now Paul.
I never loved “Billy Goat”. It was the PO’s name and in my mind never fit.

Here is where and why I arrived at Paul.
1) the keys I received had “Paul’s key” stamped on the door key.

2) my grandfather’s Americanized middle name was “Paul”.

3 I officially took ownership of this LC on my grandfather’s (RIP) 100th birthday.

Paul it is. And to keep with the theme, “A Girl Named Paul”

 

[RevISK]

Second thing, I bought 2 of the badass H4 headlight kits for a total of $42 for both. One set is on my 40, “A Girl Named Norman”.

The other set I found a set of motorcycle headlight buckets for and plopped these in. Now these will be my aux lights on Paul.

 

[franklin40]

So, I’ve got a thing going on I’d like some opinions about…

When I fill up the truck with gas, she won’t start for a few minutes. If I let her sit for a bit, she fires right up. 5-10 minutes or thereabouts. Starts fine in every other situation. I have my theory but would like some untainted thoughts.

Thanks y’all.

Ian

i had this issue with my swapped in diesel (it was originally a 3FE so same wiring). it was the ignition wiring that was used to connect to the fuel solenoid. when it was warm the resistance in the wire changed just enough that it wouldn’t open the solenoid until it cooled down. i wonder if that’s what’s happening at your power wire to the starter solenoid. a relay with direct power from the battery fixed my issue. just a thought. these old wiring harnesses are prone to corrosion and can develop more resistance

 

[RevISK]

i had this issue with my swapped in diesel (it was originally a 3FE so same wiring). it was the ignition wiring that was used to connect to the fuel solenoid. when it was warm the resistance in the wire changed just enough that it wouldn’t open the solenoid until it cooled down. i wonder if that’s what’s happening at your power wire to the starter solenoid. a relay with direct power from the battery fixed my issue. just a thought. these old wiring harnesses are prone to corrosion and can develop more resistance

That’s an interesting thought. I shall look into that.
It’s just weird it only happens when I fill up.

I changed out my charcoal canister for the 120 one hoping that would help and it didn’t but the truck runs better. I was in swapped hose mode before. Next is to put a new VCV in as it almost feels like a vapor lock.

My other theory is that filling up stirs up crap in the tank and temporarily blocks the line and then it settles. But I’m basically John Snow here.