Builds 1973 FJ 40 Build,Vortec,NV4500,Atlas,Diamond

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I was told these manifolds for a 2010 Camaro would work. Anyone else use these? I haven't tried fitting the engine in the frame yet, but in just measuring, it looks like the dumps will be right above the frame, not inside.

Also, it's close to slave cylinder, of course read about this 1000 times here on Mud. I've heard about a center dump from a Corvette, but no luck in finding so far. Supposedly the center dump will be easier for the crossover

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Cool stuff. On the NV4500, any trouble with the mainshaft swap? You are set-up for 23-spline output now, correct?
 
cruisermatt said:
Cool stuff. On the NV4500, any trouble with the mainshaft swap? You are set-up for 23-spline output now, correct?
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I had a shop swap the shaft for me. New 5th gear as well. I've also got the Dodge cast iron tail housing. I've got 29 spline shaft, as it is a direct bolt for the Atlas, so I don't need a spud shaft. The Dodge tail housing is also about 2" shorter overall, helping with my rear drive shaft length
 
64Rotorhead said:
View attachment 1490647 View attachment 1490648 View attachment 1490649 Does anyone know why the 4X4Labs's mounts extend forward of frame 1 5/8"? The included instructions/drawings show this but no explanation why this is.
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I installed this on mine last winter, I'm not sure why it extends, but the pieces for the top of the frame extend as well and re-position the bumper support brackets and tow hooks accordingly. They include weld on nuts for the tow hooks if I remember correctly.

My only thought on why it extends would be that it is to provide some additional clearance in front of the steering box to make replacement easier without removing the front bumper.
 
White Stripe said:
I think it's because when some guys do soa conversions they lengthen the frame horns to move the front spring hangers forward to stretch the wheelbase.
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That would make sense! Although I'd think you could still swap the springs for wheel base but not have the extra frame length in order to have a better approach angle
 
If I'm not mistaken a stock bumper is mounted to a set of plates that are bolted to the frame top and bottom. The plates stick out an inch or so past the frame. Perhaps needed to fit the PTO or 8274 winch. (?)
 
Engine Placement. Hoping someone will comment, good, bad or ugly? This post moves rather slowly, so I'm not holding my breath. I have not set the tub yet, just the hood, aprons front bib. No issues there that I can see, but of course I realize I need the tub on for firewall, tranny check.

There is 2" clearance between front of mechanical fan and furthest rear surface of original radiator mount. I still need to build the actual mount for the Griffin rad. I will move engine forward so fan is ¾"-1" away from rad. In these pics the engine is a bit too far aft I think. Measured from the rear of stock shock towers, it is 13.5" to center of the AA mounts.

There is also about ¾" clearance under the hood, between the hood itself and the uppermost doohickey thingy on forward end of engine.

1st Pic: Drivers side exhaust clearance and eng. mount. There are 2 3/16" plates clamped between frame rail and engine mount. On PS, there's a ½" plate. I still have to wait for the tub install to check left/right positioning, and clearance for steering components (SAG)

2nd Pic: There is ¾" clearance laterally between exhaust and slave cylinder bracket. About 4 ½" vertically between frame rail and exhaust flange. Hoping that's enough room for the muffler man?

3rd Pic: PS eng mount showing the ½" frame plate and exhaust clearance.

4th Pic: Front view

5th Pic: 3˚ down in towards the rear at the moment. With this placement, the lowest rear portion of the NV4500 is ¼" above bottom of frame rails.
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White Stripe said:
I really think u should mock up the body n axles b4 the motor. Then u can see of the body or suspension interfere
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Thanks for that. I'm definitely going to have the tub on. Trouble with axles is that I don't have them yet. I'm going with Diamond Axles. I'm a year away from those so that would hold me up, which is ok if necessary. But with the SOA, I figured the entire axle would be clear. I am concerned about the front drive shaft clearing everything though. Really do need the axle for that. Conundrum.

Decided to put the original front axle back under the rig to check the clearance for the front driveshaft. I'll have to remount the perches in SOA position. Better the extra work now than sorry later.
 
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Guy I work with ordered a diamond axle, took almost a year to get it for some reason. They took forever to make it. Nice quality though. Rough stuff may be quicker with their housings. I think you are going to want some block hugger center dump headers. Hooker makes some, their are also generic ones on ebay for cheap.
 
Dan at rough stuff makes some nice stuff, He is usually very responsive and has great customer service..(we all get busy)

Even if you walk in on a saturday and he isnt "open""..

ohh ya and he is a total cruiser head...
 
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