Check out 1985 toyota pickup on rock auto website. They have pics and measurements. Their are several different styles and lengths because toyota had quite a few weird options for pickups around that time.
Builds 1973 FJ 40 Build,Vortec,NV4500,Atlas,Diamond
- Thread starter 64Rotorhead
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- #182
Looks like it's going to be the Nice studs from Australia. Or stick with the stock length I have and probably a standard steel wheel that will fit.
Rock Auto didn't have any longer. Standard is about 52mm and that was the longest on Rock. The Nice are 69mm. I've looked high and low and the only long ones, with proper knurl location are the Nice.
With stock length(52mm) I would have only about 3/16" of room with the lug nut on and a couple threads extending past the nut. I need to check aftermarket wheels to see how thick they are.
I believe the stock fj40 studs are 37mm. I couldn't even bolt on spacers with the stock studs because it looks like the studs needed to be another 3/8 or so longer for the spacers. I went with 40mm and it was just enough for the lugnuts with the spacers on to engage the entire wheel spacer lug nut except for maybe 1 thread. I still have those studs now but no longer run spacers. But my memory is pretty foggy about all this since I only had the issue with the spacers and haven't looked into it for 3 years or so. According to rock auto though 37mm is stock length wheel stud front and rear. Anyway sorry I can't be of more help.
I think you should put a sleeve through the frame. If you look at the angle of the leaf springs themselves you will see how they are going to compress under braking. When you level out the spring , it has less chance of nose diving as brake force translates linearly along the length of the spring. I'm a big fan of shackle reversals but it is something to take that into account when you set it up. I did one that way and hated the way the nose of the truck dipped every time I hit the brakes. I hated it more and more as I drove it so I eventually changed it.
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- #185
No problem at all! It's all good. I just find it interesting that I can't find more about this. There's tons of 40's out there, and many with 60 width axles, disc brakes. I'd think I could find more info. There's been suggestions that some guys just go to ½"x20, but I still cannot find those that have the knurling in the proper spot so as to engage the hub.
Anyway, it's all good learning. I appreciate your input.
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- #186
I am going to do exactly that, just waiting on some parts.
It will also lower the CG a bit, it really looks like it would be too tall. There's plenty of lift already with the SOA
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
Yeah stock is shorter then 52mm for sure. I was running a 1.5” spacer and needed longer studs. Found some that worked. Then went to a 1” spacer and had to chop off a couple threads as they poked out a bit.
I’ll search and see what the dorman part number was (I purchased a box from somewhere).
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
These are what I ended with - Dorman Products - 610-265
They were 88 cents each when I bought them in 2017. Beats the hell out of the price on those nice ones
They were 88 cents each when I bought them in 2017. Beats the hell out of the price on those nice ones
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- #189
These are what I ended with - Dorman Products - 610-265
They were 88 cents each when I bought them in 2017. Beats the hell out of the price on those nice ones
What wheels are you running? Your link is actually about 8mm shorter than the 52mm I got from Cruiser Outfitters, which I think are stock. So the thickness of the wheel at the studs is what I am considering. If I don't go with a steel wheel I'm concerned that even 52mm will not be long enough. Some aftermarket aluminum wheels are thicker I think, but I'm not sure. Gotta check on that
The other problem with those Dormans are that the knurled portion will not reach in to the hub. I have TG hubs which are .8" thick. So when first going through the rotor, then in to the hub, I need the centerline of the knurling to be at least .5" from the stud head
I did find these which should work if I decide to go to ½"x20, as the knurled portion would work as it's .7" which would reach well in to the hub:The Official ARP Web Site | Kits
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S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
Yes, the ones I linked are 44.5mm which were significantly longer then the studs I removed from the 1978 FJ40 semi float rear axle. I am running TR aluminum bead locks...but the axle/hub stud doesn’t since I’m running spacers that have their own stud.
Sorry that suggestion wasn’t any help
Sorry that suggestion wasn’t any help
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- #191
Yes, the ones I linked are 44.5mm which were significantly longer then the studs I removed from the 1978 FJ40 semi float rear axle. I am running TR aluminum bead locks...but the axle/hub stud doesn’t since I’m running spacers that have their own stud.
Sorry that suggestion wasn’t any help
That's ok, this is all good stuff. Things can get complicated depending on someones exact build details. I appreciate the input
Dorman Products - 610-380.1
Here’s another option I found back when I was searching that someone on pirate4x4 had done.
Here’s another option I found back when I was searching that someone on pirate4x4 had done.
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- #193
That would certainly work if I drill out my hubs for 9/16". But in my feeble mind it brings up the question of wheel stud hole sizes? So with the 6x5.5 pattern, would 9/16" studs fit?
Geez, there's soooooo much I don't know
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- #194
That would certainly work if I drill out my hubs for 9/16". But in my feeble mind it brings up the question of wheel stud hole sizes? So with the 6x5.5 pattern, would 9/16" studs fit?
I spent sooo many hours researching wheel studs. Lol. But yes, the 9/16” will clear my wheels.
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- #196
This is the crossmember. Probably looks strange but here's the deal: 1) I saved an inch of clearance by doing it this way. The mounts are the Energy Suspension 3.1158, these are a bit shorter than the .1108's. 2) I just couldn't stand the one so used 2, I want it to stay put if rolled
plus some redundancy.
There will be a ⅜" plate between the mounts and the transmission, it essentially is a mini crossmember to spread out the weight between the 2 mounts and it will be gusseted on the forward side.
plus some redundancy. There will be a ⅜" plate between the mounts and the transmission, it essentially is a mini crossmember to spread out the weight between the 2 mounts and it will be gusseted on the forward side.
k for my sanity sake how far under your frame does your cross member sit? i still have a chance to modify mine if it will save me sufficient space. mine just feels like it hangs down a lot.
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- #198
I'll be back out in the shop in the morning and will let you know for sure.
I just couldn't have the narrow mount on it's own so decided on 2. I wanted poly instead of rubber. The stock rubber is about 3" tall overall, the Energy Suspension 3.1158 is like 1.65", so there's that savings.
Contrary to my previous post, Instead of the ⅜" plate and welding a side gusset to it, I think I'll fab the mini x member for the NV4500 out of some 4"x4"x.250". I can create a 90˚ angle piece from this which gives me the support/gusset all in one.
If I recall, it will hang about 1" below the frame rails, but I'll check for sure in the morning and let you know
This still gives me ⅝" clearance between the forward Atlas flange
wow that’s pretty tight! mine is probably 3 inches below. what is your rear drive shaft length and angle with it up that high? i’m trying to minimize how high my tranny hump will be inside too so don’t want to go too high. as i’ve said before little compromises i guess
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- #200
I'll let you know that as well! I don't have my rear diff in right now but last I checked it would be ok. My rear axle is moved back 5-6" and I'm planning on a CV shaft.
The 2"x2"x.250" x member is about 1 ¾" below frame rail as I recall, but again I'll double check that tomorrow
