I would worry about cruiser lean when u get some miles on it. Once things settle u can see how much if any lean u have. I just add or subtract leaves after that to compensate or add a spacer to the bottom of the leaf pack.
Builds 1973 FJ 40 Build,Vortec,NV4500,Atlas,Diamond
- Thread starter 64Rotorhead
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- #142
Well sure, but the hanger is about that thick, so you could essentially have it right close to the axle
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- #143
Question for anyone on the frame.
Configuration is rear leaf's on but no axle up front, just supported on the front crossmember, at the center point, to allow the frame to pivot laterally on this point.
With all the weight on the rig, and the rear shackle angles equal and frame height equal, the front left is ⅜' to ½" lower than the front right. Consequently, if I level the front then the rear is off diagonally by that much.
So a twist in the frame? Don't really know what could be done at this point.
Is this common for that much? I'm wondering how this thing will drive down the road?
Configuration is rear leaf's on but no axle up front, just supported on the front crossmember, at the center point, to allow the frame to pivot laterally on this point.
With all the weight on the rig, and the rear shackle angles equal and frame height equal, the front left is ⅜' to ½" lower than the front right. Consequently, if I level the front then the rear is off diagonally by that much.
So a twist in the frame? Don't really know what could be done at this point.
Is this common for that much? I'm wondering how this thing will drive down the road?
I recall the one of the major commercial restorers, that it is common for frames to deviate from the FSM specs.
jim land
SILVER Star
20 yrs ago ,it cost me something like 75$ or 100$ at a frame master shop to got it straighten , just the bare frame .
this will not cure the cruiser lean ,but it is a good thing to build on a straight frame
this will not cure the cruiser lean ,but it is a good thing to build on a straight frame
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- #146
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
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- #148
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- #149
Inner seals installed on Diamond housing, pics before and after
you’ve now officially passed me on your diamond axle build! ill be asking you questions now it seems!!
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- #151
The bottom pic is of a special tool you can make, It's for installing those inner seals. I'd heard of guys messing them up so decided to make this. It's made from the rear cross member tube, just the right size with a touch of sanding. Fit's right in the seal to get it started.
The other pics just for fun
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- #152
Front springs mock up today. Getting ready to check angles and dangles. I could get this lower(SOA) by ¼" on the front spring hanger and about ⅜-½" on the shackle hanger, but is it worth it?
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #154
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind
I'm sure you know how it is, much of the time I figure out ways to get things done, but sometimes it's like ya need 3 ½ arms with 6 fingers on each hand
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind
Yeah, I know exactly how it is.
U dont want to put the shackle through the frame?
- Thread starter
- #158
Well, I have considered it. I was following Chicagos build from a while back. I guess I'm kind of where he was at on this, I had PM'd him about it and he agreed that through the frame was probably the best way, but that in the end it seemed to wheel just fine, he didn't notice anything bad about this set up.
Yes, through the frame would articulate more up and down instead of rearward as shown in my pic. Why is that bad? Other than accounting for the slip joint moving towards TC, simply take that in to consideration. But it's not looking like ride height would be much lower for all the effort, and it would be a big ass hole through the frame, which in reality translates to my unease in my ability to get it right.
The biggest thing would be that offset shackle. This is an FJ60 width axle, so outboarded. So then how would I make that offset inboard side shackle? Not sure anyone in my neck of the woods could bend some ⅜" just right, dunno.
Decisions, decisions
Convince me
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my guess is that you’d be able to move the shackle up about 2 inches which would translate into 1 inch of over all height drop. you’d also have less shackle movement before it impinged in the frame through so you’d need to get your angles just right. i agree about it being worth it. you could probably take out a leaf on your spring with almost the same net effect. it’s still going to move front and back the same amount with articulation. there are offset shackles from ruff stuff though. you could get 5/8 inch movement on each side. don’t know how much you’d need.
I really like how mine turned out. I think through the frame is the only way to go with a shackle reversal. Just my Opinion.
Looks Great, Keep up the hard work!
Looks Great, Keep up the hard work!
