Builds Whitey Forty - Tilda Bogue Service Station

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Great as always. Late 2F's indeed use a different upper radiator hose to the earlier ones. The 4 bolt hole updated thermostat housing and bottom sits higher than the valve cover compared to the earlier one where it sat lower.

The top part is much taller. Good to know. I just compared these two. I think the one I reused (2 bolt) was stock to this truck as all the smog stuff was on it

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Woke up in the mood to wire.

First things first was to cut out all the non OEM and no longer used wires. With the 1 wire alternator and DUI there are a lot of wires just hanging there.

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The owner had a wire burn up and a local shop fixed it. They said it did not have proper grounds but generally a burned wire in the harness is a short. Either way I have it all back working with a Coolerman Fusable link in place.
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I have all the Sniper wiring done except the fuel pump. I’m about to tackle that next.
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Top of the head has some nice Toyota Matt products
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Fuel pump and lines kicked my ass this afternoon but I got it done. The lines were both stuffed in the tiny hole in the body with no grommet. I ended up putting a bulkhead fitting in so I could uncrowd them
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The tank was recently added and FYI, on these later tanks this is the return bung, not the feed like the earlier tanks.
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The hardline feed that Mosley sells would not work with the Mean Green alternator so I had to make a feed and return line. I sheath them with Design Engineering Titanium 1/2” x 4ft Protect-a-Sleeve material
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Pump is on the frame with a pre and post filter
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I got the IAC set. Timing set. Tomorrow I’ll get the throttle cable installed and do the brakes so I can have it mobile.

Problem.
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I can’t get the Mean Green to “turn on”

I’ve got a switched 12v signal wire plugged into this harness on the red wire. I’ve tried both spades and neither makes it start charging.
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This is the output post I’m assuming. I have that big red wire going directly to the battery.

What am I missing here?

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Woke up in the mood to wire.

First things first was to cut out all the non OEM and no longer used wires. With the 1 wire alternator and DUI there are a lot of wires just hanging there.

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The owner had a wire burn up and a local shop fixed it. They said it did not have proper grounds but generally a burned wire in the harness is a short. Either way I have it all back working with a Coolerman Fusable link in place.

I have all the Sniper wiring done except the fuel pump. I’m about to tackle that next.

Top of the head has some nice Toyota Matt products
Nolen, if those wires you cut out are going in the trash, can I send you some coin to mail them to me? Always enjoy your build threads. Thanks for the motivation to work on my own '78 project!

Andrew
 
Nolen, if those wires you cut out are going in the trash, can I send you some coin to mail them to me? Always enjoy your build threads. Thanks for the motivation to work on my own '78 project!

Andrew
I keep the plugs and reuse them as needed
 
no help with the alt...

but why not just run the cheap but awesome Toyota retrofit headlights?

As cool as they are they are not very bright. You add LEDs to them and they light splashes all over the place. People flash the crap out of you. I’ll still use them but when a customer wants good headlights these are my go to now. Plus no complicated harness. Plug and play.
 
@wngrog would you mind sharing where you ultimately took your 12V supply for the Holley sniper from and is that temperature sender on the top of the head closest to the firewall for your Sniper or the stock dash gauge
 
As cool as they are they are not very bright. You add LEDs to them and they light splashes all over the place. People flash the crap out of you. I’ll still use them but when a customer wants good headlights these are my go to now. Plus no complicated harness. Plug and play.
This confuses me. The H4 stock, crazy inexpensive light setup is so very plug and play. I did it, that should speak volumes. Plus, they’re as bright or brighter than my stock tundra headlights.
Once tuned in correctly, I think they’re pretty much the bees knees. Naturally, I’m a home mechanic just putting plywood tailgates on my truck, but these lights are easily the dopest dank to drop on our skinnies.
Educate us if you would,.
 
This confuses me. The H4 stock, crazy inexpensive light setup is so very plug and play. I did it, that should speak volumes. Plus, they’re as bright or brighter than my stock tundra headlights.
Once tuned in correctly, I think they’re pretty much the bees knees. Naturally, I’m a home mechanic just putting plywood tailgates on my truck, but these lights are easily the dopest dank to drop on our skinnies.
Educate us if you would,.

They are worlds better than the standard 45 year old bulbs.

I like them. Great looking. Koito, a pack of zip ties. Best bang for the buck for $50

That said, I have tried multiple other bulbs in the Koito housings to get white light. The LEDs I have used completely splash out the light. No direction

These Holley lights were designed around the housing with white LED light.

Let me find where I did the bulb test. Stand by.
 
 
Are you saying the Toyota kit (the 15-30 dollar one) is the one that splashes light?

No. It’s great as long as you don’t want to have white LED light. It’s not designed for generic LED bulbs.

If you add them the light is all over. No focus.
 

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