6f40j9
SILVER Star
Was thinking earlier about the irony of this statement. Pretty sure the shackle reversal was a BTB mainstay. Truly a one stop shop.
Builds Whitey Forty - Tilda Bogue Service Station (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter wngrog
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- offroad restoration
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- #182
Was thinking earlier about the irony of this statement. Pretty sure the shackle reversal was a BTB mainstay. Truly a one stop shop.
Yeah, funny. Still is. Them and Profitt crank them out still.
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- #183
Can you share how yours is wired?
1911
chupacabra
Let me go look and take some photos Nolen; it has been 13 years since I installed mine, but it worked great from the get-go.
Your ouput cable to the battery is correct.
1911
chupacabra
OK, here goes:
The red wire from the Mean Green is connected to the black wire with a yellow stripe (BY) that used to be attached to the voltage regulator at terminal "IG" on my 12/79-build 40.
Heavy cable from the output terminal direct to the battery, and a heavy ground cable to the frame and battery.
The red wire from the Mean Green is connected to the black wire with a yellow stripe (BY) that used to be attached to the voltage regulator at terminal "IG" on my 12/79-build 40.
Heavy cable from the output terminal direct to the battery, and a heavy ground cable to the frame and battery.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Ah, LED in there. Gotcha.
I paid $46 and change for 2 sets.
I prefer warmer light, at night at least.
Thanks for the explanation.
Hey Nolen, That looks like a AC Delco CS130 alternator. The plug should have 4 terminals that match the alt side. They will be labeled SFLP or SILP. The large, usually red colored wire on the S terminal should be connected to the battery + terminal, or the large + output on the back going to the battery +. That is the "sense" wire. The F or I wire should go to IGN switched 12V +. This is what "turns on" the alternator, to start charging. Note, you must use a diode on this if connecting to the IGN circuit, or it will back feed the IGN circuit, and you won't be able to turn off the engine. The L terminal also "turns on" the alt. If you want to use the L terminal to "turn on" the alternator, this one uses a charge warning light, or you will need to put a resistor in, or it won't turn on the alt. The P terminal is generally used for a tach signal, and is not used. Hope this helps.
cstav86
SILVER Star
Are these brake line a Nolen special or do the come from Georg? Will be doing this mod soon and those are what I will need.
- Thread starter
- #189
TSM sends the rear with their kit
- Thread starter
- #190
Great. I think I’m following. This plug does not have the S or P … just the F and L
Right now I’m direct from the old BY to L on the Alternator plug.
(For the record this is all I’ve ever had to do on a FJ60 internal regulator alternator)
So, if I’m reading this right to make this setup work I need I need a charge warning light or a resistor.
I honestly don’t know exactly what either of those for this configuration looks like. Do you mind posting a link?
I would love to know how mean green got rid of the S connection. They must have done some rewiring inside, so all it needs is an "excite" wire. Since you aren't running a "charge light" in the dash, you will use the F terminal to excite the alt. Connect your black wire / yellow stripe IGN circuit wire to the F terminal to excite. If you find the truck won't turn off, but is now charging, you will need to put a diode on that wire so it does not back feed. If you want to run a charge light in the dash, you would use the L wire. This thread has good info, and post 4 has a pretty good description I think. Alternator wiring GM CS130 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=779710
When I put one of these CS130s in my FJ40 it took me awhile to figure out how to wire it. I debated about using the F or L. In the end I chose L on my install, and run a "charge light" on the dash. I've found I really like having the charge light. Lights up with key on IGN and does not go out until the alternator is excited and charging.
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- Thread starter
- #192
Thanks for the link.
I tried to google this resistor and it brings up little things that look like you use in a house. Any help on what I buy at Auto Zone is appreciated.
That said, the resistor should only be there as a protection from the internal regulator over charging ? Would its absence keep the
from kicking on when its getting proper 12v?
My L wire is confirmed getting switched 12 all the way to the plug.
Still no charge
I tried to google this resistor and it brings up little things that look like you use in a house. Any help on what I buy at Auto Zone is appreciated.
That said, the resistor should only be there as a protection from the internal regulator over charging ? Would its absence keep the
from kicking on when its getting proper 12v?
My L wire is confirmed getting switched 12 all the way to the plug.
Still no charge
- Thread starter
- #193
Pardon the absence of a bezel
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
470ohm 1/2watt resistor is what you likely need
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Alt was working correctly previously?
Maybe look in this bundle of wires that was removed
Maybe look in this bundle of wires that was removed
- Thread starter
- #196
How does one wire such a thing?
- Thread starter
- #197
Alt was working correctly previously?
Maybe look in this bundle of wires that was removed
View attachment 3579606
That’s the problem. With this one wire thing, the stock ammeter does not work. It has the sniper LCD now but before it didn’t have it.
He did drive it up here at night. I guess the alternator could have not been working but I just don’t know.
I think I’ll have to take this one off and have not tested to rule that out.
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- #199
Of course.
jim land
SILVER Star
For the alternator i just use a small socket and builb in line at the exit of the alternator
