Builds Saudi 84 - Tilda Bogue Service Station

[cruiserdan]

What's the math on that? All I know is 3.5" is the magic

There's gonna be some math involved here so hang onto yer hat...

A 7 inch wide wheel is actually 8 inches wide at the outer flanges. This means that the "0" offset (from the mounting surface) would be a backspace of 4 inches. This particular wheel has a positive offset of 33mm. When you add 33mm to 4 inches you get a backspace of 5.299 inches. Over 1 3/4 inches too deep.

With a wheel of this width you would need a wheel with a negative offset of 13mm +/-.

 

[WTFOVR]

It's amazing what a headliner does for the looks of a 40

View attachment 3877208

Maybe I pushed you into this on Dusty but I think this is a good ingredient to the special sauce. Total value add.

 

[wngrog]

This morning I went to replace the leaking high pressure hose with a DIY kit I've used many times. I cracked open the box and realized I only ordered one fitting

I dug through everything I had and finally gave up and robbed my FJ45 of the part I needed.

OK. That's done. Now to find the electrical gremlins.

 

[wngrog]

As expected the headlight saga was a s*** show. Wires clipped and twisted and all. I finally figured it out.

They had run the headlight harness through some black wires that were hidden in the stock loom along the drivers fender.

I managed to figure out what was cut and twisted and I think it's all good to go.

 

[wngrog]

Sam had removed the clock because his brother in law was going to try to fix it.

I was hoping when he removed it he had unplugged the heater fan and the wipers when he removed the center piece.

Unfortunately both the wiper and the blower switch are solidly plugged in yet neither are working.

Wipers are the most important part of this equation so I'm starting there.

I can't get them to work jumping the wires from the switch so I popped the motor cover off to check the motor.

It works but it's pretty clapped out.

 

[wngrog]

What a ****ing day.

Took my wife to the airport and my plan today was to get the wipers working and call this thing done enough to go home to the owner. I'm headed out Wednesday to meet her and will be gone a week.

I monkeyed around with them for an hour and threw in the towel and decided to head into town to get a toggle switch to get the going that way.

I tried a used switch. Tried running the power direct to the harness. Nothing worked except adding direct to the motor like in the above video.

So I head to town in this thing.

About 1/2 there it bucks and I look down and gauges are gone then it just quits.

Nothing. No power.

Call a buddy and get a ride home.

Test the battery and it is completely dead....won't even take a charge.

Pull it. Drive another car to town. Auto Zone confirms it's a bad battery.

What the F.

Get a new one. Go home and decided to test the new rebuilt alternator.

Nothing is coming off the charge post.

I decide to swap out the voltage regulator for a new aftermarket. Same thing.

Found a third one in a SOR box that is an actual OEM Toyota VR. Nothing.

I'm going to pull this alternator and have them test it to see if it's dead. It's got to be.

I can confirm I'm getting proper switched 12v to the harness plug but no power is coming from the alternator post.

 

[wngrog]

While I was at the auto parts place I got a new cig lighter and repaired the wires for it so I could use my handy dandy in line amp gauge

Nothing.

 

[cbmontgo]

Electrical work and weatherstripping all within a week. F that.

 

[wngrog]

Took the alternator to the shop this morning and unfortunately it checked out as good. That means either I have 3 bad voltage regulators (2 being new) or something is amiss in the harness again.

So.

I have had a sweet Mosley rebuilt internal regulator 60 series alternator in my stash as a spare.

I installed it the way I have done 10 others. Signal wire from an accessory switched 12v and a wire to the battery.

Now it won't shut off with the key.

All of Mud tells me I need a 1N4001 diode in my signal wire circuit.

Trying to find one of those local and I'm having no luck. Probably going to have to order one on line.

Good news is it charges good. Just won't turn off.

 

[peesalot]

You sure that signal wire is Ign on and not always hot ?

 

[wngrog]

You sure that signal wire is Ign on and not always hot ?

Quite sure. Show dick some respect.

 

[OGBeno]

The wonderful world of working on 50 year old shǐtboxes.

 

[peesalot]

Ok

 

[wngrog]

I remembered the owner of this truck's Brother in law Tommy is a radio geek. I messaged him to see if he has some of these diodes and he damn sure did.

I made the round trip to Brandon and got home and son of a gun. Those little things work.

We are in business again.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Awesome when a plan comes together.

 

[TheHardWay]

Oh great - now you have to add diodes to the road repair kit...

 

[charliemeyer007]

They are small and don't go bad in the bag. You unwrap some rosin core solder off your 4 inch pocket crescent wrench, flick your BIC to heat a nail and solder it in place. The big trick is getting the alternator apart the first time. I had to drill the head off one of the long screws. A nice parts guy at the local Toyota dealer, pulled a screw out of a core for me and gave it to me. He said that screw was bonded in on purpose by Mr T. This was about 1986, Before I left for college 300 miles away, dad and I took off the carb, starter, dizzy, alternator and took them apart for cleaning and inspection.

 

[Coolerman]

Wow! What a journey that truck has been for you!
One glaring safety issue I saw in your wiring pics: You do not have a fusible link installed! The pic showing the 10ga White/Blue wire is where the fusible link should plug in. That wire should have a MALE 7.8mm connector installed then the fusible link plugs into that and the other end of the fusible link connects to the battery +. There will also be a two pin plug coming off the fusible link that plugs into a small plastic fuse box with two 5 amp fuses that goes to the Amp Meter. The Amp Meter does not work very well in these later trucks due to a design flaw.

The green round 6 pin plug near the starter you first asked about is the connector for connecting the rear chassis harness to the main cowl harness.

 

[wngrog]

Wow! What a journey that truck has been for you!
One glaring safety issue I saw in your wiring pics: You do not have a fusible link installed! The pic showing the 10ga White/Blue wire is where the fusible link should plug in. That wire should have a MALE 7.8mm connector installed then the fusible link plugs into that and the other end of the fusible link connects to the battery +. There will also be a two pin plug coming off the fusible link that plugs into a small plastic fuse box with two 5 amp fuses that goes to the Amp Meter. The Amp Meter does not work very well in these later trucks due to a design flaw.

The green round 6 pin plug near the starter you first asked about is the connector for connecting the rear chassis harness to the main cowl harness.

I have one of your Fusable links installed. First thing I always do.

Yeah this thing has a rear harness but it does not have anyplace to plug in the 4wd and Reverse switches.

I was hoping the green plug was just for those two

 

[wngrog]

Ended up having to put the wipers on a toggle switch. As you can see the wires coming into the wiper motor are all non OEM colors so somehow this thing was wired up separate already from the normal switch.