Priorities..... respect.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (65 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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sofj45
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Found the gremlin yelling at me under the rear seat today
Edit: Got it back together with a donor 3rd while i rebuild my other. No 4 wheel drive for the time being with 4:88 in the rear and 4:56 up front, also no locker but it’s still driveable and on the road while the other is on the bench
Edit: Got it back together with a donor 3rd while i rebuild my other. No 4 wheel drive for the time being with 4:88 in the rear and 4:56 up front, also no locker but it’s still driveable and on the road while the other is on the bench
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Looks good! Just the diffs right?
Yes…… T-case & tranny were done a few months ago with a different oil
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MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
It wasn't complicated at all, but there was a lot of surface rust under the old weather stripping. Do the passenger door first, then the driver door will look better and you won't obsess over it.
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/this\
I’m using the stock ECU for engine management.
My understanding is the h55 is little over 3 inches longer than a h42. I think you can keep the transmission and transfer case in the stock location but you would most likely need to move your radiator forward to compensate for the longer length.
I think you are about right about the split case and h55 being 3-3.25" longer. I was thinking / hoping the diffence could be made up in the engine compartment without moving the radiator or the transmission / TC. I guess my thought was that the 1uz had to be shorter than the 2f but that may also open up a new can of worms. I figured you would be best to know, not too many 1uz motors in 40s. Thanks!
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
Since the H55F is longer you will have to modify or replace the drive shafts because the the output yokes are 3" farther back. Even though I am using the cross member I put the motor mounts back on the bell housing which locked the transmission in the same place the H42 was. My Cummins R2.8 is much shorter then the F series motor and doesn't reach the front axle now with the transmission located where it was.
I had to move the radiator back and down for the inter cooler and to get the fan inside the shroud.
I guess in my head, I was thinking that since the 1uz or even the r2.8 are shorter than a 2f, that the extra length of the h55 could move everything forward into the engine compartment rather than messing with the t-case mounting or shortening the already short rear drive shaft. I had't thought about reading about the r2.8 swaps which probably addresses some of this. I am pretty good with a wrench but major swaps like these will come with a huge learning curve. I have a 1UZ, so I am slowly bouncing ideas around in my head and absorbing what information I can before jumping into anything. Thanks!
I just swapped an LS into my 1975 40
I used a splitcase and late 4 speed with the long case so if I wanted to add an h55 later it would drop in.
Both stock driveshafts fit as they did with the 2f and stock 4 speed/xfr, no mods.
I had to move the transmission shifter hole about an inch and a half maybe 2" forward. Clears the stock heater just fine
I used a splitcase and late 4 speed with the long case so if I wanted to add an h55 later it would drop in.
Both stock driveshafts fit as they did with the 2f and stock 4 speed/xfr, no mods.
I had to move the transmission shifter hole about an inch and a half maybe 2" forward. Clears the stock heater just fine
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
Drained the block and radiator as I filled it up with water after replacing the radiator/hoses/rebuilt water pump and put in pink coolant so now everything in my driveway uses the same type. By the way, that block drain is worth its weight in gold. Zero mess.
Also finally got the rear seat covers in. 4” of seat foam and some poly fill to round the edges. Could have spend a little more time, but whatevs.
Also finally got the rear seat covers in. 4” of seat foam and some poly fill to round the edges. Could have spend a little more time, but whatevs.
Th
That's what I was thinking. Time for me to do a little more research on my own and to grab a tape measure. So many little nuances that go well beyond this surface discussion. Thanks again everyone.
Fwiw, I didn't plan it that way at all.
Engine to radiator/firewall clearance front to back, and exhaust to frame/steering laterally, was what I was playing with, happy accident the driveshaft length didn't change.
Engine to radiator/firewall clearance front to back, and exhaust to frame/steering laterally, was what I was playing with, happy accident the driveshaft length didn't change.
It coming together. Tip, don't grease you drive shaft spline while it's still on the bench bf you bolt it up. Use the zirk fitting afterwards. The grease keeps me from being able to compress the shaft joint enough to fit it in. That will be tomorrows fun. Toyota's OEM parking brake cable replace is not for my 1979. It has the wrong end on it to fit my floor mounted e-brake handle. I'm going to grind the cable end down and weld the old threaded piece on it. I should be back on the road next week.
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Unscrew the zerk and the driveshaft will compress just fine. AND you will have exactly the right amount of grease inside the shaft when you’re done!
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I didn't feel like making a separate thread for this, but I did want to document an unusual problem with a carburetor.
Customer already had the carburetor rebuilt elsewhere, and got a new float in the process. Sent the carburetor to me because they couldn't stop it from flooding. Teardown wasn't unusual, except for the fact that the supposedly rebuilt carburetor still had the original gasket between the fuel bowl and throttle body, as well as a few other signs that it was not a full rebuild.
When I turned the air horn over, it seemed like the float level was high (float closer than normal to the underside of the airhorn) but the mechanic's note said fuel was at the level indicated by the sight glass. I was given to understand that the rebuild kit was new, and the needle/seat assembly sure looked it.
When I unscrewed the seat from the airhorn I discovered that there was no washer! Well, that certainly could contribute to a flooding problem. But I kind of doubted it. I decided to compare the new parts to some old ones that I have onhand. Diameter, check. Height, check. Fuel oriface, WHAT? Yes, the hole in the replacement seat was larger, by at least 25%! While that would definitely help get more fuel in the carb, it would also cause the needle to drop deeper into the seat, which would affect the float adjustment substantially.
Not only that, it could (and probably did) cause the arm of the float to hit the side of the seat before it had sufficient pressure on the needle to hold the passage closed. A sly little bit of detective work.
I put a stock seat in. First pic: float level as it came to me. Second pic: float level with a stock seat with the correct oriface. Lesson: check EVERY component in your rebuild kit thoroughly.
If you find this tech useful, let me know by hitting the like button.
Customer already had the carburetor rebuilt elsewhere, and got a new float in the process. Sent the carburetor to me because they couldn't stop it from flooding. Teardown wasn't unusual, except for the fact that the supposedly rebuilt carburetor still had the original gasket between the fuel bowl and throttle body, as well as a few other signs that it was not a full rebuild.
When I turned the air horn over, it seemed like the float level was high (float closer than normal to the underside of the airhorn) but the mechanic's note said fuel was at the level indicated by the sight glass. I was given to understand that the rebuild kit was new, and the needle/seat assembly sure looked it.
When I unscrewed the seat from the airhorn I discovered that there was no washer! Well, that certainly could contribute to a flooding problem. But I kind of doubted it. I decided to compare the new parts to some old ones that I have onhand. Diameter, check. Height, check. Fuel oriface, WHAT? Yes, the hole in the replacement seat was larger, by at least 25%! While that would definitely help get more fuel in the carb, it would also cause the needle to drop deeper into the seat, which would affect the float adjustment substantially.
Not only that, it could (and probably did) cause the arm of the float to hit the side of the seat before it had sufficient pressure on the needle to hold the passage closed. A sly little bit of detective work.I put a stock seat in. First pic: float level as it came to me. Second pic: float level with a stock seat with the correct oriface. Lesson: check EVERY component in your rebuild kit thoroughly.
If you find this tech useful, let me know by hitting the like button.
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Love these tips!!! Thanks for taking the time to do these!I didn't feel like making a separate thread for this, but I did want to document an unusual problem with a carburetor.
Customer already had the carburetor rebuilt elsewhere, and got a new float in the process. Sent the carburetor to me because they couldn't stop it from flooding. Teardown wasn't unusual, except for the fact that the supposedly rebuilt carburetor still had the original gasket between the fuel bowl and throttle body, as well as a few other signs that it was not a full rebuild.
When I turned the air horn over, it seemed like the float level was high (float closer than normal to the underside of the airhorn) but the mechanic's note said fuel was at the level indicated by the sight glass. I was given to understand that the rebuild kit was new, and the needle/seat assembly sure looked it.
When I unscrewed the seat from the airhorn I discovered that there was no washer! Well, that certainly could contribute to a flooding problem. But I kind of doubted it. I decided to compare the new parts to some old ones that I have onhand. Diameter, check. Height, check. Fuel oriface, WHAT? Yes, the hole in the replacement seat was larger, by at least 25%! While that would definitely help get more fuel in the carb, it would also cause the needle to drop deeper into the seat, which would affect the float adjustment substantially.
I put a stock seat in. First pic: float level as it came to me. Second pic: float level with a stock seat with the correct oriface. Lesson: check EVERY component in your rebuild kit thoroughly.
View attachment 3993052View attachment 3993053
The 1UZ is an extremely smooth engine and feels like it has way more power than the 350 SBC it replaced in my FJ40. Whatever modifications you need to accommodate the 1UZ and H55 combo in your FJ40 will bring you smiles.
