What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (17 Viewers)

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Working on panel fit before body filler and paint. Pass fender fit great, driver is off 3/8” to rear. I am thinking I should relieve fender spot welds, reposition and then reweld. I did already try to pull tub forward the 3/8“-1/2” it’s off with limited success (it’s square now). I am also ok with slotting the support but this far off it’s aligning near the flanges on fender support. Any recommendations appreciated.
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Photo below of after shifting tub forward. I also used piece of steel in apron channel to align. Strap for 3rd hand help.
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@Mr. Green, Do the hood 1st, align with the bib. The frt crossmember the bib bolts to is angled to adjust hood height. To adjust hood gap to cowl you may have to add shims the the frt body mount to raise the cowl. Make sure the apron mounting flanges aren't interfering with the apron and fender gap. Are the fenders stock oem or aftermarket?
 
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Slowly making progress diagnosing the pull to the left when braking.

Checked the right rear. Pulled the drum. Checked the wheel cylinder function, both extend.
Noted some oil residue on the drum and leading edge of the shoes. Based on the rear circuit not having a leak (based on not having to top off the rear reservoir at all in the past several years) and the build up around the fixed hub, I suspect that an axle seal is weeping.

As a lazy person I extended up the right front adjusters a notch to see if that would help. It did not.

So next up will be checking the front wheel cylinders for function. Even if they do extend properly, my guess is the new wheel cylinders on the left front are simply providing more power. (Note: I had already bled the front circuit again so I don't think this is an air bubble.) While a minor inconvenience, checking the right front will require pulling the Warn hub since the washers extend just enough to keep the drum from sliding off.

I also emailed Classic Cruisers down in Salida to get a WAG at what a disc conversion would cost. Time is starting to be a premium for me, so not chasing drum brake adjustments might be worth the cost.
 
Your brake adjustment is critical to even braking. Adjust per the fsm with the wheels on.
 
Finally, cut and adapted a new set of spark plug wires. I only bought them 2yrs ago. Cold starts and overall idle is much better. I still need to fine tune it.

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Your brake adjustment is critical to even braking. Adjust per the fsm with the wheels on.
You don't say?

This is a new behavior that started a few weeks after replacing the front left wheel cylinders and adjusting the brakes per spec. The 40 was stopping straight and true following that adjustment. Hence the troubleshooting and not driving the 40 more than around the block until I get it sorted. As a wise FJ40 mechanic once told me: fix things in the following order: brakes, steering, engine.
 
@Mr. Green, Do the hood 1st, align with the bib. The frt crossmember the bib bolts to is angled to adjust hood height. To adjust hood gap to cowl you may have to add shims the the frt body mount to raise the cowl. Make sure the apron mounting flanges aren't interfering with the apron and fender gap. Are the fenders stock oem or aftermarket?
Thanks for that tip, could be after rewelding entire tub I made a mistake on driver side. Will give it a go later!!
 
New 2.5” stainless exhaust for my turbo. Simple and only 1 hour install.

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Do you like the quadrajet? What year sbc is that?

I've been running a qjet for 30+yrs and have no reason to change. I've laid my other 40 on its side a couple of times and I'd have to turn the engine off. If the nose of the 40 is drastically pointing down, like coming off a ledge it'll idle ruff. I might have to feather the throttle a little. I have have couple of minimal tweaks that I do to them for offroad. I'm still learning to fine tune for better economy and performance. In the past I'd go to an a/p store and buy one for a certain application and they work great out of the box and are inexpensive. I've found with those type carbs, the internals are very generic and designed to work on several applications. It's difficult to id the internal parts because they're not marked(jets & rods), so it's hard to really fine tune them. Anytime I see a qjet for free or real cheap I'll pic it up for parts or possible rebuild. I recently found an unmolested stk carb I'll be building. I'll baseline it and then play with it. I always keep a rebuild kit handy.
 
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@sogafarm, I think that sbc is a 79 blk, 2 bolt main. The po's mechanic rebuilt it and put 305 heads on it. Eventually that will likely change. My other 40 has a 260hp, 4bolt main, crate engine, from back when they were cheap.
 
@sogafarm, I think that sbc is a 79 blk, 2 bolt main. The po's mechanic rebuilt it and put 305 heads on it. Eventually that will likely change. My other 40 has a 260hp, 4bolt main, crate engine, from back when they were cheap.
Thanks for that info, I’m learning about the quadrajet bits still a bit of a mystery. I’ll say that the setup in my ‘72 has been running great but I can’t get the hot idle down below 1100 rpm unless I give it a quick rev and then goes down to 950-1000. Cold idle is now running 2000. I’ve got a late 70’s sbc too.
 
That kind of rpm, your not in the idle circuit. Is it dripping from the venturis? Are the throttle plates closing? A gasket sticking out or carbon can keep interfere with the plates from closing in the bore. The choke linkage could be hanging up.
 
Marlin rebuilt my carb in early 2022. I've posted this before, but what a great guy he was. I learned so much from him just talking on the phone about my carb. He was patient with my dumb questions, and sent numerous pics of what he was doing throughout the process. He had to correct some shoddy work from a previous rebuild.
He noted all of the jet sizes on the work order for my future reference, and signed my carb too.
Old school and sorely missed.
I learned it from the legend. This is such a great video on so many levels. How to go about a carb rebuild. How to take care on the steps. Kindness and putting people first. Marlin passed away a few days after this video was made. I have shared this in multiple places on Mud, but worth doing here.



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