What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (48 Viewers)

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Changed oil filter bracket and fuel pump gaskets. Whomever said this takes an hour wasn’t scrapping off the 46 year old gaskets!

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Yeah that is quite the time to miss a letter!!
Should have read Black Powder, Muzzleloader
 
Got some help from the PO (Mar- my dad) this week. Gave the Mosley cop motor her first drink. :)

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Got the sniper mounted.

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Cutoff the welded trailer hitch. Drilled out the additional holes and mounted the 4plus tire carrier and yeti basket swingouts. Yes I know this should likely be done after I get the body on but I was tired of walking around the pile of parts. Ha

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Great having my Dad down in Texas this week from TN. Can't wait to see him driving his new old rig!
 
Tried to pick up a set of stainless clutch and brake lines for my FJ45 but seems like they’re not available. So bought the roll of stainless and started bending and bending. YouTube taught me how to create the flare fitting so I got to work to try it…and…it works

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Trying to get my rear seats in and coming up wonky. Time to grind some brackets off and find someone to weld them back on.
I think I’ll get the bottoms bolted up and bolt the brackets to the body, then have them tacked in place to start.
I need to restore the frames and re cover them anyway…

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Which flare tool did you get?
@firefighterjed …I picked it up on Amazon…not an expensive one as I figured I am making maybe 12 fittings at most and I will probably not need it much more AND IT WAS $24… worked like it was supposed to.

the better part of what I had purchased was to tubing straightener thing…. It looks like a toilet paper tube and you pass the tubing coil thru it and it straightens it out nicely for the longer runs

Thorstone Double & Single Flaring Tool Kit for Brake Line and Brass Tubing Tool with Extra Adapters, 45 Degrees, Red​


(Amazon used to have a share button and it would copy the URL so you can paste it anywhere… I don’t see it so, this is the title above)
 
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Trying to get my rear seats in and coming up wonky. Time to grind some brackets off and find someone to weld them back on.
I think I’ll get the bottoms bolted up and bolt the brackets to the body, then have them tacked in place to start.
I need to restore the frames and re cover them anyway…

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Made some headway. Cut the brackets off the right side frame and will use them on a spare frame I had that lined up better. Just need to find someone to weld them back on.

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I went from this:View attachment 3454663

To this:View attachment 3454664

I had to move my engine over to center to make room for the power steering pulley and shaft clearance and now the passenger side head is too close to the firewall for my comfort. So now I get to move everything forward an inch or so to make some room. And yes, the engine and crossmember mounts are welded in like it’s was going to the moon. Probably for the best.

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In a nutshell, you’re going to have overheating issues if you don’t move your engine significantly forward. I’d recommend 3”+ based on my experience. If you position it right, the front and rear driveshafts will be the same length. If mine was about a 1/2” inch further back they would be the same length.

Starting at post 22 are pictures and measurements of my setup.
I kept my engine much lower than most. Had it been 3” from the firewall, I could swap my rear shaft that is starting to have play in the splines for the front and be set for another 30 years.
 
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