SBC swap with manual steering

[red65FJ40]

Here are two pics of my '65 with SBC and 2" ram horns with original manual box. Early style mount and no rag joint on the shaft, but you get the idea. I did have to shift stuff around a bit, but the engine is straight and close to center which was the only way to get the transfer case to fit inside the rails. I don't have 36" tires though either...

 

[bikersmurf]

More pictures.

Here are some new pictures and measurements. The block is +/- 3 1/2" from the firewall, Crank center is 12" off the inside of the passenger frame rail,the center of the motor mount is 21 1/2" from the inside of the front cross member, and the Closest point of the transfer case is 1" off the passenger frame rail.

Now for your viewing pleasure:

 

[bikersmurf]

A few more.

Pictures:

 

[bikersmurf]

Sick of them yet?

Even more:

 

[bikersmurf]

A couple of other notes:

When installed, each of the front mounts sat on top of nominal 1" material (approx. 5/8").

The rad is lowered so that the bottom of the mount is even with the bottom of the front crossmember (and moved over to the passenger side).

There is a thick fingers width between the steering box and the manifolds.

Make sure you can get the #5 spark plug out (I use a Popular Mechanics 13/16" spark plug socket with built in U-joint that I found at Walmart years later)

If I mounted the motor 1/2" further back, my front and rear driveshafts would have been the same. (I didn't realize this until after the motor mounts were welded in.) Although, with my Craftsman spark plug socket and separate U-joint, I could barely get the spark plug out without raising the motor (or pulling steering box).

 

[bikersmurf]

Heater clearance

Many have mentioned stick shift issues with the heater. A recent thread states that you can swap in a 60 series top cover to get around this... but I learned this 15 years too late.

Here is a shot of my modded stick. It clears the unmodified heater.

 

[70LCruiser]

Thanks for the pictures and measurements. They were a real big help, Im heading to my shop a little later and see what I was doing wrong.

 

[Huroneymoose]

Do your homework on power steering upgrades, its kind of a big deal. And welcome to the whirlwind that is modifying a '40. I bought a '76 40 with a 305 and manual steering, and one thing leads to another man. It was a fun journey but there are/were as many downs as ups, ask anyone on 'Mud.

 

[70LCruiser]

Bikersmurf- It seems I have a differnt style of manifolds than you have. My flange isnt as far down as yours are. My flange is right after it drops down and is horizontal, almost like the one on your passenger side but higher. And that is where it is hitting the box. I moved the engine forward about an inch from your measurements and up a little higher it seems and I think this is going to work. Now I just have to make motormounts and see how it all worksout.

Huroneymoose- This is my second FJ40, Ive been workign on them for 7 years so believe me ive had my ups and downs with them lol. My first one I did a frame off restoration and a 4" lift and 33s. This one im doing a lot more modifications too. Its always a fun project, It started off as just a little project that I was just gunna use to go out tot he woods, here I am almsot 2 years later and replaced all my body panels, new motor, still got to rebuild axles, and then who knows. one thing definetly leads to another lol

 

[bikersmurf]

Glad to hear you're getting it figured out. It should work out fine. My motor sits lower than most other conversions I've seen. I mounted mine as high on the frame as I could using the mounts that came with my Downey kit. I've also got a 2" spacer to move my fan closer to my rad, so I think you'll have enough space there too.

One other thing to keep in mind up front is the clearance between the harmonic ballancer and the front diff. It'll likely be fine, but I've heard of them hitting on full front suspension compression. Smaller car ballancers can be used in place of larger truck ones to help with this.
Edit: Never mind, I see you're running SOA so it won't be an issue.

If you can find the top cover from a 60 series transmission, it'll move the stick shift back 4" which will help with heater clearance. I'm sure you could also make it work by modifying your stock stick.

What are your plans for cooling? I'm running a stockish 3 core rad and semi rigid fan, but most recommend rigid fans. There are a million threads on the topic, and it'll be easier to make it work now than fix it down the road.

 

[70LCruiser]

Im going to try and see how the stock radiator is going to be, and probably use an electric fan.

 

[bikersmurf]

Ford Tarus fans seem to be one of the best choices, High Volume and economical. It's on my long to do list.

I've been running a recored stock rad for 15 years. It's a copper high density three core ran (equivalent to a four core). The only problem, I had at first, was that at low speeds on the trail it would tend to overheat at idle. When I brought the RPMs up a bit it would cool right down. I fixed this by replacing the water pump pulley with a somewhat smaller one. Originally it was an automatic and I don't think it liked working hard at 600 rpm.

The climate is mild here, but I've driven to Pheonix Arizona and back (back in 27 hours) without problems.

 

[Bret]

Do what you can to use a mechanical fan, it will flow more air with less hassle than the electrics. There are electrics up to the job but they are generally not just a plug and play. With a SBC it might be worth your trouble to completely check the stock radiator and if there is any doubt swap it out with a bigger one.

 

[70LCruiser]

I dont have any doubts with the radiator I have. It kept the I6 cool, but Im still going to bring it to a radiator shop and have it checked out. If I can get a mechanical fan to fit Ill use one if not Ill look into a taurus fan, Ive noticed a lot of people talking about them in the past

 

[fjmonkey]

70LCruiser - I have a 1964 FJ40 with a mid 70's 350, ram horn manifolds, and stock manual steering, it fits just fine. I also have the stock radiator with mechanical fan, fits good too. I will try to take some pictures if it will help. I plan on swapping out the manual steering for power, but not because of fit, I just want to. My 350 is in with an advanced adapters kit, manual three speed and stock transfer case. Hope that helps a bit...

 

[70LCruiser]

fjmonkey- Im running the same setup as you, or I am going to be. Im using the stock 3 speed and tcase also. how is your front driveshaft angle? I was looking at mine yesterday when I had it mocked up and it looks like its going to be steep. How much lift are you running?