Green Bean
GOLD Star
Finally, got around to organizing M8 & M6 JIS hardware.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (35 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Installed one of my seats. Seat foam from SOR and covers from cruiser corps. Also had my headrests done from a local shop to match the seats.
blossett
SILVER Star
Installed the rear seats!
Removed this. It take a bit longer than 5 minutes
Big weekend for the ‘69. Tried on the Factory Bow set. Im not quite ready to run the FST so this was just a practice run. Need to do some work to the middle bow as it is from a Paki top and it is about 1-1.5” lower than the other two bows and definitely not the same shape.
I finally installed the Cruiser Corps jump seat covers. Did all new foam. Straight forward job. Happy with the quality of the CC covers. Installed the jump seats.
I cut the b-pillar hoop off from the “roll cage” that came on the truck. Between the jump seats and removal of the b hoop, it has totally transformed the look of the truck.
Reinstalled some new OEM hub caps for some bling.
I Have and hot-running issue with the F engine. Thought it was due to summer time temps, but still runs hot after the sun goes down, so that needs to be my next project. Full of coolant, plastic 6 blade fan, intact shroud, no appparent leaks or use of coolant. Will do new water pump, thermostat, and have radiator looked at by a local outfit. Probably do a vinegar clean of the block as well. Pretty bummed as i finally have this thing close to where o envisioned it aesthetically and now it has to sit for repairs. Such is the life of owning a 40 I guess.
I finally installed the Cruiser Corps jump seat covers. Did all new foam. Straight forward job. Happy with the quality of the CC covers. Installed the jump seats.
I cut the b-pillar hoop off from the “roll cage” that came on the truck. Between the jump seats and removal of the b hoop, it has totally transformed the look of the truck.
Reinstalled some new OEM hub caps for some bling.
I Have and hot-running issue with the F engine. Thought it was due to summer time temps, but still runs hot after the sun goes down, so that needs to be my next project. Full of coolant, plastic 6 blade fan, intact shroud, no appparent leaks or use of coolant. Will do new water pump, thermostat, and have radiator looked at by a local outfit. Probably do a vinegar clean of the block as well. Pretty bummed as i finally have this thing close to where o envisioned it aesthetically and now it has to sit for repairs. Such is the life of owning a 40 I guess.
I recently charge my new vintage AC system in time for the scorching out PNW weather. Running AC around 90 degrees + tends to over heat my 40. I need to bounce back and forth between hot and cold. I don't have enough miles to find a happy mid point where I get some cold air but the water temp stays below 220. Even with a Ron Davis radiator?!?!?
Last time I was driving, it got super hot. Hit 240 when I arrived home and after shutting it off, heat soak drove it up to 245. Found that I melted my electric fan wire and the fan stopped working. The fan and horns were some of the worse wiring it did so it's time to clean it up.
I was running iRapsody relays off amazon rated 80/60, but there are a lot of comments saying they are closer to a 40/30 amp relay. I got invested in a Dakota Digital 75 amp relay, kept the iRapsody for the horns and bought a Hella, Delay off relay. Since I'm running a sniper, I have two fan switches and plan to run the first fan at 190 for the electric fan and 210 for the delay relay. The relay is set for round 150 seconds and if I turn the engine off when the temp is above 210, it'll keep the 75 amp fan relay on for a little over 3 mins....hopefully, no more heat soak.
Back to the new wiring. Replace the 14 gauge fan wire with 10 gauge, re-ran the horn wires and consolidate the grounds. Here is what I started with:
An long, laborious process, wrapping everything in Raychem DR25 and fixing the ends with Raychem SCL.. Here is the progress pick:
With wires going everywhere from relay to fan, relay to ground, relay to switches and relay to power, it was super difficult to route everything with our creating big bulges in the wiring loom. For a couple of the wires, I cut them and then inserted both ends into the same side of a barrel connector to get a clean 180 degree turn. Here is some more progress:
I first put everything together with the wire looms too long, and then cut them to size. I had to label each layer as it removed it so I knew the order to put it back together. I think I took the loom apart around 10 to 15 times to get the right sequence and layering.
Final product, it's no @Coolerman or @ToyotaMatt job, but it'll work under my hood:
Last time I was driving, it got super hot. Hit 240 when I arrived home and after shutting it off, heat soak drove it up to 245. Found that I melted my electric fan wire and the fan stopped working. The fan and horns were some of the worse wiring it did so it's time to clean it up.
I was running iRapsody relays off amazon rated 80/60, but there are a lot of comments saying they are closer to a 40/30 amp relay. I got invested in a Dakota Digital 75 amp relay, kept the iRapsody for the horns and bought a Hella, Delay off relay. Since I'm running a sniper, I have two fan switches and plan to run the first fan at 190 for the electric fan and 210 for the delay relay. The relay is set for round 150 seconds and if I turn the engine off when the temp is above 210, it'll keep the 75 amp fan relay on for a little over 3 mins....hopefully, no more heat soak.
Back to the new wiring. Replace the 14 gauge fan wire with 10 gauge, re-ran the horn wires and consolidate the grounds. Here is what I started with:
Final product, it's no @Coolerman or @ToyotaMatt job, but it'll work under my hood:
Got this in the mail:
Been camping every weekend this month and have neglected to do any maintenance on the 40. This morning it was time for a fuel and air filter swap then a trip to grab lunch with my munchkin. After eating freeze dried backpacking food all weekend she was thrilled to get some good ol, bad for you fast food! 
Can you share which delay relay you used? I’m thinking I want to add the same to my electric fan setup.I recently charge my new vintage AC system in time for the scorching out PNW weather. Running AC around 90 degrees + tends to over heat my 40. I need to bounce back and forth between hot and cold. I don't have enough miles to find a happy mid point where I get some cold air but the water temp stays below 220. Even with a Ron Davis radiator?!?!?
Last time I was driving, it got super hot. Hit 240 when I arrived home and after shutting it off, heat soak drove it up to 245. Found that I melted my electric fan wire and the fan stopped working. The fan and horns were some of the worse wiring it did so it's time to clean it up.
I was running iRapsody relays off amazon rated 80/60, but there are a lot of comments saying they are closer to a 40/30 amp relay. I got invested in a Dakota Digital 75 amp relay, kept the iRapsody for the horns and bought a Hella, Delay off relay. Since I'm running a sniper, I have two fan switches and plan to run the first fan at 190 for the electric fan and 210 for the delay relay. The relay is set for round 150 seconds and if I turn the engine off when the temp is above 210, it'll keep the 75 amp fan relay on for a little over 3 mins....hopefully, no more heat soak.
Back to the new wiring. Replace the 14 gauge fan wire with 10 gauge, re-ran the horn wires and consolidate the grounds. Here is what I started with:
An long, laborious process, wrapping everything in Raychem DR25 and fixing the ends with Raychem SCL.. Here is the progress pick:
With wires going everywhere from relay to fan, relay to ground, relay to switches and relay to power, it was super difficult to route everything with our creating big bulges in the wiring loom. For a couple of the wires, I cut them and then inserted both ends into the same side of a barrel connector to get a clean 180 degree turn. Here is some more progress:
I first put everything together with the wire looms too long, and then cut them to size. I had to label each layer as it removed it so I knew the order to put it back together. I think I took the loom apart around 10 to 15 times to get the right sequence and layering.
Final product, it's no @Coolerman or @ToyotaMatt job, but it'll work under my hood:
projectTuRD
SILVER Star
Finally got it running and started reassembling it. It’s been so long I forgot I need a left side front turn signal.
Still have some tuning to do but I just had to see that face again.
Still have some tuning to do but I just had to see that face again.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
Got back to it Saturday after stabbing in rebuilt 2F in July - un-Webered the past and got original carb on - had to get accelerator linkage (thx @65swb45) and choke cable and spring for carb (thx @ToyotaMatt) - installed fuel pump, water pump, clutch slave & master (txh @cruiseroutfit).
PO did a number to the accelerator pedal (hacked it off and welded the cable for Weber - so looking at local source for a pedal -
Manifold back from machine shop - and tightened a bolt or two and bent fuel line for the first time. Got it to turn over (wasn't getting gas to Carb) - Ended up an issue with the fuel pump spacer - Found a few small leaks - adjusted valves for first time - hell all this is first time for me (using friends garage and tools). Will put cleaned cover on when most of the fingerprint potential subsides.
Thinking of blasting and powder coating air cleaner and get that on-
Soon will turn drain the water from radiator (better than filling with $100 of antifreeze and find problems) and add antifreeze etc. Then to suspension and front axle (knuckles, brakes, hubs etc) then enjoy, before OCD kicks back in and I look for original seats - well shoot - (that didn't last long) need to start looking now.
PO did a number to the accelerator pedal (hacked it off and welded the cable for Weber - so looking at local source for a pedal -
Manifold back from machine shop - and tightened a bolt or two and bent fuel line for the first time. Got it to turn over (wasn't getting gas to Carb) - Ended up an issue with the fuel pump spacer - Found a few small leaks - adjusted valves for first time - hell all this is first time for me (using friends garage and tools). Will put cleaned cover on when most of the fingerprint potential subsides.
Thinking of blasting and powder coating air cleaner and get that on-
Soon will turn drain the water from radiator (better than filling with $100 of antifreeze and find problems) and add antifreeze etc. Then to suspension and front axle (knuckles, brakes, hubs etc) then enjoy, before OCD kicks back in and I look for original seats - well shoot - (that didn't last long) need to start looking now.
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Skreddy
SILVER Star
@MaltbyPenn can you share any insights of why you chose Vintage Air over another brand like Classic, etc? If you compared at all.
I recently charge my new vintage AC system in time for the scorching out PNW weather. Running AC around 90 degrees + tends to over heat my 40. I need to bounce back and forth between hot and cold. I don't have enough miles to find a happy mid point where I get some cold air but the water temp stays below 220. Even with a Ron Davis radiator?!?!?
Last time I was driving, it got super hot. Hit 240 when I arrived home and after shutting it off, heat soak drove it up to 245. Found that I melted my electric fan wire and the fan stopped working. The fan and horns were some of the worse wiring it did so it's time to clean it up.
I was running iRapsody relays off amazon rated 80/60, but there are a lot of comments saying they are closer to a 40/30 amp relay. I got invested in a Dakota Digital 75 amp relay, kept the iRapsody for the horns and bought a Hella, Delay off relay. Since I'm running a sniper, I have two fan switches and plan to run the first fan at 190 for the electric fan and 210 for the delay relay. The relay is set for round 150 seconds and if I turn the engine off when the temp is above 210, it'll keep the 75 amp fan relay on for a little over 3 mins....hopefully, no more heat soak.
Back to the new wiring. Replace the 14 gauge fan wire with 10 gauge, re-ran the horn wires and consolidate the grounds. Here is what I started with:
An long, laborious process, wrapping everything in Raychem DR25 and fixing the ends with Raychem SCL.. Here is the progress pick:
With wires going everywhere from relay to fan, relay to ground, relay to switches and relay to power, it was super difficult to route everything with our creating big bulges in the wiring loom. For a couple of the wires, I cut them and then inserted both ends into the same side of a barrel connector to get a clean 180 degree turn. Here is some more progress:
I first put everything together with the wire looms too long, and then cut them to size. I had to label each layer as it removed it so I knew the order to put it back together. I think I took the loom apart around 10 to 15 times to get the right sequence and layering.
Final product, it's no @Coolerman or @ToyotaMatt job, but it'll work under my hood:
Will be curious what it does to your coolant temps running the a/c.... I have recently installed a rebuilt 2F with a brand new 4-row radiator, 190deg thermostat, waterpump and direct drive fan (no fan clutch) and am having similar overheating issues when running the vintage a/c when outside temps top 90F both city and even highway driving.
(Have burped it numerous times with no additional bubbles after the initial burp)
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I would have thought a mechanical fan would perform better than electrical. I suspect the issue relates to the evaporator preheating the air coming into the radiator too much and reducing the radiator’s cooling efficiency.
Larger GM luxury vehicles use a deeper & larger 8-9 blade fan on a clutch to suck even more air through the evaporator & radiator to ensure there’s enough flow to cool both.
When I got the A/C working on our Ambulance I had to replace the clutch fan because the current one wouldn’t pull enough air. I don’t remember how many blades it has, but they are 4”+ deep, and more than 20” across. When it’s fully engaged it can easily be heard over the 7.3 turbo diesel. A/C definitely requires air flow to work, and it gets noticeably colder when accelerating on the highway.
Green Bean
GOLD Star
Installed engine lift hooks.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
I have the OEM Nippondenso A/C system, and no running hot issues. Running the red fan clutch 16210-61121.
Wise decision on going with the original carb. My brothers ‘76 had a Weber, found original, had it rebuilt and it runs excellent!
I’m sorry @Skreddy , I really didn’t look at anything other than vintage air.
I don’t have enough experience as my fan wire melted on the second hot drive. I’ve been going from extreme to extreme, blasting cold till it hits 220 and then full hot till it drops to 205. When I get it running again, I’m hoping to find a temp set where it cool enough air to keep the windows up, yet keep it below 220….but I’m running out of hot day in the PNW.
This is really quite unexpected as I spent about $1300 on the radiator and expected 0 cooling issues
The adventures of FJ40 ownership. For every success there are 2 failures lurking
maybe I would regret it later but now it looks acceptable to me..
it is a little glossy with hardener..
apply a few wet coats directly to bare metal and seam sealer.
it is a little glossy with hardener..
apply a few wet coats directly to bare metal and seam sealer.
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