What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (76 Viewers)

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I decided to go with 3/8" synthetic. Apparently I can wind 95 feet of it onto that spool. Need to find a cover for it too, or Pacific Northwest rain will be soaking it.
 
I decided to go with 3/8" synthetic. Apparently I can wind 95 feet of it onto that spool. Need to find a cover for it too, or Pacific Northwest rain will be soaking it.

This is a really nice cover I saved for future purchase when I'm to the point of needing one.

Amazon product ASIN B07KQ2WHLN
 
Some of my connectors are getting to the point of being unserviceable. Doing some replacement therapy.

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Hey, thanks JDNs78FJ40! Here you go... it was a tight squeeze and I had to modify the backing plate, but I got it together! View attachment 2954931
and I highly recommend a couple extra wraps of electrical tape (or shrink wrap insulation) on the wire end of the connectors at the solenoid. The connector that runs from the left side of the solenoid to the motor bent down a little on mine to where it was arc’ing on the metal solenoid cover. (Arc’ing probably an understatement… it was more like a fireball when I pushed the button to retrieve the rope. I thought I had fried the entire motor and solenoid! 😳)

I prefer the wire cable for nostalgia reasons, but synthetic cable much lighter and easier to deal with.
 
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and I highly recommend a couple extra wraps of electrical tape (or shrink wrap insulation) on the wire end of the connectors at the solenoid.
Oh, OK... you mean the controller (little) wires, right? I was thinking I should probably heat shrink those like I did the ones that go to the cab controller. I still need to take it apart to put gear oil in it, so will do that... super easy.
 
Thanks. What cable are you going to spool that badboy with?
You can fit 125ft of 3/8 line. I went with Tactical Recovery Equipment. Super high quality.
 
Oh, OK... you mean the controller (little) wires, right? I was thinking I should probably heat shrink those like I did the ones that go to the cab controller. I still need to take it apart to put gear oil in it, so will do that... super easy.

No the red heavy gauge wires where they run thru that grey metal plate between the solenoid and the motor. Especially the wire on the left.

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and I highly recommend a couple extra wraps of electrical tape (or shrink wrap insulation) on the wire end of the connectors at the solenoid. The connector that runs from the left side of the solenoid to the motor bent down a little on mine to where it was arc’ing on the metal solenoid cover. (Arc’ing probably an understatement… it was more like a fireball when I pushed the button to retrieve the rope. I thought I had fried the entire motor and solenoid! 😳)

I prefer the wire cable for nostalgia reasons, but synthetic cable much lighter and easier to deal with.
Thanks for the arc’ing advice.

Wire cable is cool but expensive. $220 is the best I found. Might go synthetic for ease and cost.
 
There is a new BAR and Benchmark set here this evening …

Good Bye cheezy and lame 16401-50010. Mystery OEM parts maker

No secondary rubber seal …......... please :rolleyes:

good by ...... :D

There is a new oem NON-USA Genuine NipponDenso Radiator cap in town !

- fits 1962 - 4/86 FJ40 FJ55 FJ60








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TAKE NOTE the 2nd MODERN black rubber seal gasket , ..........





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Bougie......


There is a new BAR and Benchmark set here this evening …

Good Bye cheezy and lame 16401-50010. Mystery OEM parts maker

No secondary rubber seal …......... please :rolleyes:

good by ...... :D

There is a new oem NON-USA Genuine NipponDenso Radiator cap in town !

- fits 1962 - 4/86 FJ40 FJ55 FJ60








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Ugly truck tried on some new clothes thanks to @navydivedoc (half doors). Put 40 miles on her tonight had a huge smile the whole time.

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