What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (36 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Michael B
SILVER Star
Too bad they won't make an FJ45 version. I have asked and they said no.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Michael B
SILVER Star
Nice!! Thanks for sharing the link.
I installed one of these Carters back in 1996 when I swapped in the SBC. (Pureists... It was either that or scrap the truck)
Mine is mounted at the back of the crossmember that runs across the body behind the passenger seat. Mine is secured to this 1/8" thick crossmember with a couple of large sheet metal screws. This puts it about 6" from the tank and it's was connected with less than 2' of line. In 20 years, it's always got fuel to the carb... As long as there's fuel in the tank. (Run out, and it will refill the carb without cranking the motor over.) The pump is low, but not below the tank. The top is just below the floor... Making the lines about half way (or more) above the tank.
A couple years back I added a ManAFree type auxillary tank. It is now plumbed in before the pump using a brass 'marine' manual fuel valve. The aux tank is further away, but the pump is between the two tanks.
* I'd highly recommend having an inline filter before the pump to keep debris out of the pump.
This setup has been working 100% reliably since I installed it in 1996. The only drawback is that the pump is audible when running... Not annoyingly loud, but present. The radio easily drowns it out... But the radio died about 8 years ago... After 12+ years of being bounced around in a 40.
My long term plan was/is to run a second pump for the auxillary tank and switch them with the fuel gauge. The reason for this would be to have a redundant pump... Although they're great pumps, and it has never given me trouble, it won't last forever.
Like @pngunme, I don't want to be left stranded. In my case I don't have to worry about scorpions, but it'll surely fail at the worst time... And likely while submerged in 1' of water.
*on my one day list, is to install a T fitting, a shutoff, and a length of line to run into an accessories fuel tank... It's usually the mower, but sometimes the generator, chainsaw, weedwacker, or a buddies rig.
Hiking some trails over the long weekend - unfortunately the 40 is staying at home. Decided to use its time spent sitting to conduct a highly scientific leak test to identify my hard start issues.
My quadrajets fuel bowl drains overnight, leading to a LOT of cranking to get it started after it sits.
1. I cranked the truck up and got it idling, fuel bowl filled) then shut it down before it got hot (to prevent the fuel from boiling, if that's the issue)
2. Pinched off the fuel inlet to the carb with vice grips.
So if I come back in 3 days, and the carb is empty, I know my brand new rebuilt quadrajet is leaking (the Welch plugs are epoxied)
If I come back and the bowl is full, I have to assume the fuel line is somehow sucking the gas out of my carb and draining back through the (also brand new) mechanical fuel pump.
I can't seem to get a concensus on whether the mechanical Chevy pumps have integral check valves or not...but if this ends up being the case, I'll probably just install a check valve in the line somewhere to prevent the drain back.
The good news is - no sign of gas in the oil this time...
My quadrajets fuel bowl drains overnight, leading to a LOT of cranking to get it started after it sits.
1. I cranked the truck up and got it idling, fuel bowl filled) then shut it down before it got hot (to prevent the fuel from boiling, if that's the issue)
2. Pinched off the fuel inlet to the carb with vice grips.
So if I come back in 3 days, and the carb is empty, I know my brand new rebuilt quadrajet is leaking (the Welch plugs are epoxied)
If I come back and the bowl is full, I have to assume the fuel line is somehow sucking the gas out of my carb and draining back through the (also brand new) mechanical fuel pump.
I can't seem to get a concensus on whether the mechanical Chevy pumps have integral check valves or not...but if this ends up being the case, I'll probably just install a check valve in the line somewhere to prevent the drain back.
The good news is - no sign of gas in the oil this time...
Thanks John!
I'm still looking for an answer to, "With my aux tank feeding fuel from a port at the top of the tank, via a fuel pickup to the bottom, will the electric pump be able to stay primed, in the event my oem mech pump fails? Or, am I wasting time/money/etc. even connecting the electric pump to the aux tank?".
The electric pump(s) will have an inline fuel filter between the pump(s) and the tank(s).
Thanks!
Came home for the holiday weekend in the pouring down rain..... Not even worried !
Yes, they push better than they draw, but that won't be significantly different than my stock tank which has a pickup half way up the tank that goes to the bottom of the tank. I've never had any need to prime the pump... If it had to pull it up a few feet, that'd be different. I'm sure I've even seen them mounted just under the hood at the top of the firewall, and they've worked... Not recomended though.
I've been picking up the pace on my build the last few weeks. Since I took the 71 off the road a year and a half ago, I've really just been parts collecting, with the occasional weekend spent wrenching. Too many other projects got in the way, including a pretty extensive garage remodel. So today I loaded up a pile to get powder coated. Mostly axle stuff, and a bell housing. 82 SF rear housing, 71 front with FJ62 knuckles and wide pattern arms from an early 80s FJ40.
Thanks John, that's what I wanted to hear!!
I'm curious... I've only had large items, like roof racks powder coated... when you take small items, with mating surfaces, to be powder coated, does the powder coater typically mask the mating surfaces? With what?
The shop I use is pretty good about it. We go over each item as I unload with a big paint marker and mark the surfaces I don't want blasted or coated. They use duct tape to prevent blasting the machined parts and then a high temp tape to keep the powder off. Real thin, see through.
Interesting! I never thought about it before.
To add to what bikersmurf said, I have a 94 Chev pickup with the 6.5 TD. It has a stock electric fuel pump mounted onto the vehicle frame under the cab. So it's about four feet from the pump to where the fuel line goes into the top of the fuel tank, about center front to back of the tank. This puts the electric pump not quite as low as the bottom of the tank, sucking fuel from the bottom of the tank, up to the top of the tank before it is out of the tank, and then back down to the pump before the fuel is pushed up to the motor. Never a problem with this set up.
Don
Got my new seats and tuffy console put back in after modifying the seat brackets to accommodate the Tuffy. Cut the original buckle tabs of and followed @GA Architect method. Used 90 degree seat belt brackets from CCOT and found some thick grade 8 washers at Lowes. Now just to get the seat belt retractors mounted. Broke off the roll bar bolt so I'll be drilling that out next.
Installed a gear reduction starter. It is a nice upgrade. here's a few pics, the wire that I'm holding is no longer needed it's now a two wire hook up
Michael B
SILVER Star
I got a little work done on the front axle today. After being out of town for a week it was good to get back in the garage.
