Yeah baby, thats what Im talking about...
You're jelly-us...arnt you.
It works, but it wont float though...
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (75 Viewers)
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You're jelly-us...arnt you.
It works, but it wont float though...
This is mine added 3,419 miles ago during last batch sale. Rig at 287k now.Me too
To new for me to say but in the thread dedicated to the catch can it’s estimated around 5k +/- miles or every oil change.
Thanks for posting
I have no experience with catch cans, but interesting enough, what is there in that bowl all was collected in the first 300-500 miles after install and seemingly not much or nothing more since.
Mandrake
Supporting Vendor
I am jealous. Your storage space game is strong. So it basically just screwed in in place of the lid?
Rebuilt injection pump and injectors for a 1HD-FT.
Get rid of those ACSD units folks. This rebuild was a direct result of a destroyed ACSD unit.
Get rid of those ACSD units folks. This rebuild was a direct result of a destroyed ACSD unit.
This was rebuilt by Diesel Fuel Injection Service in PDX. Some of the best in the biz.
Your -FTE is nothing different than an -FT pump. All Denso rotary pumps are modular units. (From the POV of pump rebuilders).
Give them a shout. Won’t be cheap. Will in fact be very expensive.
Moved it for the first time since January when I parked it in my driveway… in preparation for @dallen341 to load on his trailer.
Went camping at Indian Valley Reservoir last weekend
Worth a try anyway. The worst they could say is…..nope.
can pls post a review on the tires after youve done some miles on them?
Gascan
All chaps, no jeans.
Several weekends in September...
In an ongoing effort to reduce driver/passenger fatigue due to NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) I began by replacing my noisy blower motor (@bwesty was actually kind enough to give me this motor some years back, after my original had died - MUD members are awesome!) with a motor from an 06 Highlander (80 series blower motors have been N/A for some years now). Obviously the cradle and blower wheel are different so you need to press the motor out and press into your original cradle. The only difference with between the motors appear to be the shaft on the Highlanders is approx. 1/8-1/4" shorter; the 80's blower wheel ends up sitting flush with the shaft tip (just the tip, giggidy!).
I'd forgotten how pleasant it was to only hear the sound of air movement without the constant che-che-che of a noisy blower.
Afterwards, I spent some time reading about sound dampening (LOTS of solid info here on MUD about this), ordered a 10 piece pack of 14.5”x10” material from Amazon ($20) and did the front doors. My understanding is that majority of effect is achieved by covering 25% of the portion of bare sheet metal to reduce its ability to act like a drum.
Dampening mat: Amazon Basics 14.5” x 10” (145 sq.in. per pad)
Front door requires:
1,120 sq in (280 sq.in = 25%)
Placed 1.lbs 11.2oz (2 full pieces in bottom, 1 half -long way- in center-ish of top / 362.5 sq.in. / 32.4%)
First impressions: It’s not night & day difference, more like pulling a ski mask or winter hat over your ears; you can still hear but the sound is a bit lower, softer. Added bonus is the feeling when shutting the doors; it feels more crisp... a tactile improvement. Then I moved onto the rear doors...
Rear door requires:
728 sq in (182 sq.in. = 25%)
Placed (1 full pieces in bottom, 1 half -long way- in center-ish of top / 217.5 sq.in. / 29.9%)
After a bit of driving, here is my takeaway: Doing the fronts was more noticeable but I suspect the rears add reduction in cabin noise overall (captain obvious statement, I know). The quieter cabin is noticeable at both low speeds and highway driving; feels more like a modern car inside. Very worthwhile addition for just $20 and some installation time. Music/car audio also sounds better, despite the lousy speakers.
Lastly, test fitted the Newley received bike rack:
In an ongoing effort to reduce driver/passenger fatigue due to NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) I began by replacing my noisy blower motor (@bwesty was actually kind enough to give me this motor some years back, after my original had died - MUD members are awesome!) with a motor from an 06 Highlander (80 series blower motors have been N/A for some years now). Obviously the cradle and blower wheel are different so you need to press the motor out and press into your original cradle. The only difference with between the motors appear to be the shaft on the Highlanders is approx. 1/8-1/4" shorter; the 80's blower wheel ends up sitting flush with the shaft tip (just the tip, giggidy!).
I'd forgotten how pleasant it was to only hear the sound of air movement without the constant che-che-che of a noisy blower.
Afterwards, I spent some time reading about sound dampening (LOTS of solid info here on MUD about this), ordered a 10 piece pack of 14.5”x10” material from Amazon ($20) and did the front doors. My understanding is that majority of effect is achieved by covering 25% of the portion of bare sheet metal to reduce its ability to act like a drum.
Dampening mat: Amazon Basics 14.5” x 10” (145 sq.in. per pad)
Front door requires:
1,120 sq in (280 sq.in = 25%)
Placed 1.lbs 11.2oz (2 full pieces in bottom, 1 half -long way- in center-ish of top / 362.5 sq.in. / 32.4%)
First impressions: It’s not night & day difference, more like pulling a ski mask or winter hat over your ears; you can still hear but the sound is a bit lower, softer. Added bonus is the feeling when shutting the doors; it feels more crisp... a tactile improvement. Then I moved onto the rear doors...
Rear door requires:
728 sq in (182 sq.in. = 25%)
Placed (1 full pieces in bottom, 1 half -long way- in center-ish of top / 217.5 sq.in. / 29.9%)
After a bit of driving, here is my takeaway: Doing the fronts was more noticeable but I suspect the rears add reduction in cabin noise overall (captain obvious statement, I know). The quieter cabin is noticeable at both low speeds and highway driving; feels more like a modern car inside. Very worthwhile addition for just $20 and some installation time. Music/car audio also sounds better, despite the lousy speakers.
Lastly, test fitted the Newley received bike rack:
COS80
SILVER Star
I changed my oil and washed the engine bay last night. There was coolant in these "teeth" on both ends of this recently replaced (by the PO) factory rad. There was no evidence of it traveling from somewhere else, and both hoses and clamps at the other end are new. Is this radiator failing?
Last edited:
Most likely
If it was recently replaced than it is likely good to go. Clean off the coolant and see if it returns. If If returns pressure test the cooling system to find the leak.
hal·le·lu·jah
