Welding on factory frames Tua’h (7 Viewers)

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I bought this book many moons ago and read thru it a bit but mostly hunted out certain things I was curious about. Here is a link to the PDF. IF you go to page 162 it doesnt talk about how to weld a frame, but it does talk heavily about the structure of metal before, during and after it has been welded. I like this guys way of making pointy head topics fun to read.

 
I don't know much but I'll give it my best shot if you have questions about anything that we have been talking about..
Unless it's about the book "Metallurgy Of Welding 3rd Edition By J F Lancaster" Then we will defer all 3rd Edition Questions to @gonzopancho
Just don't ask any questions about the 5th edition cause we aint read it yet 😲😳😮🤔🧐😏😘🐖👈🤣🤣🤣
 
I don’t remember a damn bit of this from my stick welding in Ag class as a senior. Think i got screwed!!!
My last stick welding lesson was in 8th grade. All I remember is I could make a pretty bead at the time if someone set everything up for me.

Nothing to do with frames but everything to do with our pigs, my body guy says the steel in the body of my 55 is the hardest steel he has ever dealt with on a Toyota body. Not sure of everything he has worked on but certainly 40s, 60s, 80s, and a few 7x variants. He is judging "hardness" by how fast it eats up his tools while cutting, removing spot welds, etc. Besides repairing rust, he has had to repair numerous cracks and has a theory that the cracks are due to the hardness of the steel. I guess there is some correlation to hardness and brittleness.
 
Yeah but let's not get drug in the weeds with a bunch of non-important information and lose track of trying to help each other like you said earlier.

So ol'Jack was the guys name that taught me so much early on and I believe he was a sailor or at least he cursed like one.
Anyway he would claim every time we had something foreign in the shop that "those MF'ing JAPS melt down old battle ships and razor blades to make their steel" and you better pre-heat before you weld it because you never know what you got.
I'm out in the shop now and thought I'd do the Jack chase the moisture deal and see what temperature you actually get the steel to and if it's appropriate for medium carbon steel.
View attachment 3961153
Chuck of 5 or 6 inch channel and you can see the moisture form on the surface when you hit it with a torch.
View attachment 3961161
Chase that moisture away and BAM that old SOB was bang on the money... 300 degrees is the starting temperature for welding low and medium carbon steel...
Thank you Ol'Jack..

I was looking for something that was helpful on pre-heat but I'm out in the shop on my cell not working on my project and found this that's close but not exactly what I was looking for. Anyway it has some interesting stuff if you get time to read..

Good Ol Jack! Who da **** doesnt swear like a mother ****ing sailor ⛵️🛳 on ****ing occasion 😲😳😮😘🐖👈🤣🤣🤣🤣
 
My last stick welding lesson was in 8th grade. All I remember is I could make a pretty bead at the time if someone set everything up for me.

Nothing to do with frames but everything to do with our pigs, my body guy says the steel in the body of my 55 is the hardest steel he has ever dealt with on a Toyota body. Not sure of everything he has worked on but certainly 40s, 60s, 80s, and a few 7x variants. He is judging "hardness" by how fast it eats up his tools while cutting, removing spot welds, etc. Besides repairing rust, he has had to repair numerous cracks and has a theory that the cracks are due to the hardness of the steel. I guess there is some correlation to hardness and brittleness.
Also carbon content and rust.
In my experience, higher carbon/harder steel is more prone to rust and our fj55s are certainly no exception.
 

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