Builds Weenie 3 - Tilda Bogue Service Station

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Do they have to pull the top half off the door to replace this?

No. You pull the plug and take the spring setup apart and then the two screws at the top.

The one set I did I did with the top 1/2 out and it made it harder because there was nothing to push and pull on. Too light.

Attached to the truck is the best.
 
Well the Soft Top guy and my powder guy got their schedules coordinated it seems.

Top arrived yesterday and the frame was finished today.

I'm going in. There are some parts that are needing a bit of massaging to make fit and the bolts in the tub snapped off slowing this process down a ton.

I've got the rear frame in place but the pieces that go over the doors are going to need a good bit of cutting to make them fit. I've run out of steam on it for the day but tomorrow I should be able to get the top in place.

I have to put the deals into the top that the twist stay things attach to. From my memory of installing my Dirt Road soft top that took a bit of time to complete.

Good news is the mighty F1.5 and JimC carb fired right up having sat for almost 4 weeks.

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Well the Soft Top guy and my powder guy got their schedules coordinated it seems.

Top arrived yesterday and the frame was finished today.

I'm going in. There are some parts that are needing a bit of massaging to make fit and the bolts in the tub snapped off slowing this process down a ton.

I've got the rear frame in place but the pieces that go over the doors are going to need a good bit of cutting to make them fit. I've run out of steam on it for the day but tomorrow I should be able to get the top in place.

I have to put the deals into the top that the twist stay things attach to. From my memory of installing my Dirt Road soft top that took a bit of time to complete.

Good news is the mighty F1.5 and JimC carb fired right up having sat for almost 4 weeks.

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Looking great. Did they change the B-pillar design so that it angles inward so the doors close without hitting at the top?
 
Looking great. Did they change the B-pillar design so that it angles inward so the doors close without hitting at the top?

I have not put the canvas on yet but the crossbar just needed to be opened up a bit for the B tube.
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Doors seem to close nicely.
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The windshield channel on this 74 has 7 M6 inserts from the factory so I just needed to drill out the new piece.

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Tip .... add some grease to the heads of the bolts then set the channel down to mark the spots to drill
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Done. Now to see if I can wrestle this thing on alone.
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Its hard to tell from your pictures if the gap between window frame and the b-pilllar gets smaller at the top.
This is the angle I was referencing with regard to the B-pillar.

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The problem I and others had was that the reproduction bows are like the early bows and are straight up and down. However, the window frames on the doors angle inward so the door widow frame either hits at the top corner or you over compress the seal putting load on the window frame which stresses the door and can lead to cracks.


It discussed at length in this thread
Soft top B-pillar
 
First time I’ve ever seen branch/limb (?) deflectors in front of door handles on 25/40/45s. Understand the principal, but has this been a problem in your experience?
 
First time I’ve ever seen branch/limb (?) deflectors in front of door handles on 25/40/45s. Understand the principal, but has this been a problem in your experience?
This truck only had 44,000 miles. Was on a deer camp and you can tell they used it as a bulldozer. I think it's brilliant.

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Its hard to tell from your pictures if the gap between window frame and the b-pilllar gets smaller at the top.
This is the angle I was referencing with regard to the B-pillar.

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The problem I and others had was that the reproduction bows are like the early bows and are straight up and down. However, the window frames on the doors angle inward so the door widow frame either hits at the top corner or you over compress the seal putting load on the window frame which stresses the door and can lead to cracks.


It discussed at length in this thread
Soft top B-pillar
These are straight up and down but so is the 1974 door. Fits snug.
 
That top looks great. Perfect addition.
 
Looks nice. In that pic with the TROA nametag close up, that stitching looks open. I would do a seam lock/sealer treatment, that way they are less like likely to leak or too unravel when a stitch breaks. I apply with a really small brush trying to just paint the thread and the holes. Takes at least two passes to make sure you get it all. The really good stuff is NLA due to the organic carrier, now its water based poly something not as good IMHO but way better than nothing.
 

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