- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 571
- Messages
- 16,073
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Thanks guys. Your comments keep me excited and wanting to keep making new parts and solutions.
Builds WEAKFISH another FJ62 Build Thread (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter huminajumina
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #122
More progress over the last few days..... been making checklist on my phone as I think of things while at work or where ever, and checking them off one at a time.
It has been really helpful and its nice when I pick and choose what I have time for before dinner or whatever, leave some things for the next day...
I clear coated the fenders, just some duplicolor spray bomb clear, but it says that its gas and abrasion resistant, cant hurt to keep everything protected.
On to the fun stuff, getting the wiring harness started, I have been honestly just avoiding it saving it for last. A lot of this I have done before and even the frustrating stuff has been fun today. I moved a table into the living room to not be out in the garage for hours on end.
So far, I separated the OEM fuse/relay box, removed most of the automatic transmission wiring and used a few different diagrams to get there.... the wiring for the Trans, O2 sensors (both banks) and the MAF sensor connectors were all cut off, so some of it wsa just blindly checking continuity until I confirmed wire color and ECM Pin and connector number....
Early on it was alot of continuity checks and marking wiring, labeled all the connectors and confirmed a few wires to make sure I had a solid start to the process. LT1swap.com has been my goto for all of the LS and LS1 swap stuff I have done, such a huge resource!! Also useful are Beer, and a cheap label maker, cant go wrong with those...
Todays stopping point was here, most of the tape, wire loom and everything has been striped down from the C1 C2 connectors to the transmission connectors, and you can see all of the wires I depinned and removed that are balled up by the wall. about 20 wires total depinned and removed from the harness, all trans wiring, next will be down stream o2 sensors, but thats a good start for tonight.
It has been really helpful and its nice when I pick and choose what I have time for before dinner or whatever, leave some things for the next day...
I clear coated the fenders, just some duplicolor spray bomb clear, but it says that its gas and abrasion resistant, cant hurt to keep everything protected.
On to the fun stuff, getting the wiring harness started, I have been honestly just avoiding it saving it for last. A lot of this I have done before and even the frustrating stuff has been fun today. I moved a table into the living room to not be out in the garage for hours on end.
So far, I separated the OEM fuse/relay box, removed most of the automatic transmission wiring and used a few different diagrams to get there.... the wiring for the Trans, O2 sensors (both banks) and the MAF sensor connectors were all cut off, so some of it wsa just blindly checking continuity until I confirmed wire color and ECM Pin and connector number....
Early on it was alot of continuity checks and marking wiring, labeled all the connectors and confirmed a few wires to make sure I had a solid start to the process. LT1swap.com has been my goto for all of the LS and LS1 swap stuff I have done, such a huge resource!! Also useful are Beer, and a cheap label maker, cant go wrong with those...
Todays stopping point was here, most of the tape, wire loom and everything has been striped down from the C1 C2 connectors to the transmission connectors, and you can see all of the wires I depinned and removed that are balled up by the wall. about 20 wires total depinned and removed from the harness, all trans wiring, next will be down stream o2 sensors, but thats a good start for tonight.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 571
- Messages
- 16,073
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
We actually have a ECU /TAC module bracket that bolts to the emissions mount in the left wheelwell almost ready for release 
- Thread starter
- #124
We actually have a ECU /TAC module bracket that bolts to the emissions mount in the left wheelwell almost ready for release
Oh yea? That’s going to mount both the ECU & TAC on the emissions bracket? That is my plan, I found a sheet of aluminum lying around the shop that I plan to use to mount it there.
- Thread starter
- #125
So now that I am digging into the wiring harness, I don't want to remove stuff that I will later want, but I am trying to reduce the extra wiring thats not needed.... Like you said @dbbowen and @cruisermatt I can just run the black/wht factory toyota wire to the A/C clutch, ground the other wire and use the A/C AMP and things should work like the Toyota wiring diagram for A/C... but when it comes to Idle up for the A/C Request, I have a. 12602802 PCM so it won't accept a 12VDC+ request for A/C to command a higher idle... and it will not have a high side pressure switch for protection, as you stated before. (kinda paraphrased and combined thread some responses in here)
Kinda seems like its all or nothing to go in either direction... commit to adding a few extra things in the A/C to allow the GM system to work, or just run the Toyota AMP and either find a ECM that can run the 12V+ request
Looking at this I will need to recreate a splice pack for class 2 data that ties the GBCM, DLC, to pin 58 on the ECM..... but I am not sure how the HVAC control having class 2 data is working, I am assuming in the original GM Vehicle the HVAC controls communicate to turn on the A/C on via the class 2 data... my compressor has the high pressure switch integrated into the back of it and all the wiring is here and going to the ECM like in the diagram below.
Serial Data Diagram and splice pack
I have all the wiring in the Green Box below, and plan to keep it and do a little more digging.... I am guessing this is where I either find a ECM that can accept 12V on pin 17 and run the toyota AMP Wiring...... or run it without the idle up command.... I know there are more threads than I have found on mud, more info to look at on LT1swap, and more threads on LS1tech, but I am just trying to clean up the harness and not have to reinstall stuff
Ok, enough A/C talk.... I have located my MAF Sensor wires and a new pigtail is on the way. I have deleted downstream o2 sensors, and I have located upstream sensors and have connectors to solder on..... I have pull what I need from C100 and C152 and removed them.... All Trans stuff is removed from the harness, I added a CPP clutch switch for Cruise control, and located all the other wires... Found Tach, VSS, Keeping the SAVC/GBCM for now...located fuel pump relay wiring, also located MIL and Class 2 data (mentioned above). for the OBD2. I removed the low oil wiring (because its not on the swap oil pan).
It took a little time to get to this point with the two transmission harnesses, obd2, MAF. being hacked off, I had to confirme color, continuity and pin position of everything that I wanted to remove, would have been a lot faster to look at connector pinouts and having known what connector they came from....
Tall beer can for size comparison. (this picture has been enhanced to show texture and flavor)**
At first I was trying to preserve some of the wire shape and loom so I could recreate it, but I realized that I need to pull it all, inspect it, and I had planned to use new tape, wrap and loom anyway, so I pulled a lot more to get to the Low Oil connector and remove it.
Also my dad had an OEM fan from a silverado 5.3 that he pulled, so I got that yesterday, now I can start mocking up a radiator shroud at some point...
Plenty more to keep doing, I think my only decision point comes before I mail this ECM out for delete/tune.... I am close but need to do some more research. I have the BP Automotive DIY Harness on the way to replace the massive GM relay fuseblock under the hood.
Kinda seems like its all or nothing to go in either direction... commit to adding a few extra things in the A/C to allow the GM system to work, or just run the Toyota AMP and either find a ECM that can run the 12V+ request
Looking at this I will need to recreate a splice pack for class 2 data that ties the GBCM, DLC, to pin 58 on the ECM..... but I am not sure how the HVAC control having class 2 data is working, I am assuming in the original GM Vehicle the HVAC controls communicate to turn on the A/C on via the class 2 data... my compressor has the high pressure switch integrated into the back of it and all the wiring is here and going to the ECM like in the diagram below.
Serial Data Diagram and splice pack
I have all the wiring in the Green Box below, and plan to keep it and do a little more digging.... I am guessing this is where I either find a ECM that can accept 12V on pin 17 and run the toyota AMP Wiring...... or run it without the idle up command.... I know there are more threads than I have found on mud, more info to look at on LT1swap, and more threads on LS1tech, but I am just trying to clean up the harness and not have to reinstall stuff
Ok, enough A/C talk.... I have located my MAF Sensor wires and a new pigtail is on the way. I have deleted downstream o2 sensors, and I have located upstream sensors and have connectors to solder on..... I have pull what I need from C100 and C152 and removed them.... All Trans stuff is removed from the harness, I added a CPP clutch switch for Cruise control, and located all the other wires... Found Tach, VSS, Keeping the SAVC/GBCM for now...located fuel pump relay wiring, also located MIL and Class 2 data (mentioned above). for the OBD2. I removed the low oil wiring (because its not on the swap oil pan).
It took a little time to get to this point with the two transmission harnesses, obd2, MAF. being hacked off, I had to confirme color, continuity and pin position of everything that I wanted to remove, would have been a lot faster to look at connector pinouts and having known what connector they came from....
Tall beer can for size comparison. (this picture has been enhanced to show texture and flavor)**
At first I was trying to preserve some of the wire shape and loom so I could recreate it, but I realized that I need to pull it all, inspect it, and I had planned to use new tape, wrap and loom anyway, so I pulled a lot more to get to the Low Oil connector and remove it.
Also my dad had an OEM fan from a silverado 5.3 that he pulled, so I got that yesterday, now I can start mocking up a radiator shroud at some point...
Plenty more to keep doing, I think my only decision point comes before I mail this ECM out for delete/tune.... I am close but need to do some more research. I have the BP Automotive DIY Harness on the way to replace the massive GM relay fuseblock under the hood.
Nice work, I’m getting ptsd just seeing the wiring photos 
- Thread starter
- #127
Haha, dude, dude you're not kidding! I had put it off and was just letting the harness stay on the workbench as long as possible!! Once I started going through things, I realized that it was all sounding familiar from the last one I'd done. Its just been slow and steady sitting here working on things, trying to figure out what diagram I needed, while the wife watches jeopardyNice work, I’m getting ptsd just seeing the wiring photos
.
Doing your own wiring harness is a bold move. I applaud your bravery.Haha, dude, dude you're not kidding! I had put it off and was just letting the harness stay on the workbench as long as possible!! Once I started going through things, I realized that it was all sounding familiar from the last one I'd done. It’s just been slow and steady sitting here working on things, trying to figure out what diagram I needed, while the wife watches jeopardy
- Thread starter
- #129
Haha Yea, there's almost too much information out there, you have people that have posted the factory diagrams and others that have made their own pinouts with suggestions....You definitely have to decipher what peoples intent is, and have lots of patience. Like I said, with mine the seller cut off both bundles going down to the trans with O2 sensors, so that took a little longer to clean up. Plus, not everyone wants to keep cruise control and Factory A/C and other options, so a lot of info is conflicting
But at the same time its only possible because of all the diagrams, pinouts, and information that people have gathered, so I have to give a shout out to all the people that don't just do something for themselves but continue to support others...Huge resource!!
Especially you guys on here with a lot of the big answers to keep me moving along!!! I would have figured something out eventually, but probably wouldn't be as clean!
I got all my O2 and MAF connectors soldered on last night, and added the CPP wire, and PIN 17 for the 12V A/C Signal, just waiting on my BP Automotive fuse block to arrive tomorrow. I bought the stuff from Mouser to solder the PCM per the mod on LS1 tech, referenced on
Modifying P59 Blue/Green PCM's for Analog 12V A/C Request
We'll see what my motivation level is when the pieces arrive... I think this is the most simple way to go (other than the actual PCM soldering part) to get everything I need, A/C request, high idle... we'll see when the time comes, but for now, I just want to make sure all the correct wires are in the harness, and I am ready to get the PCM tune done once and not several times....I mocked up the harness last night, (it Fits) just trying to decide if I should route the main harness from the fender to the engine directly (similar to how GM did) or if I should push it back a little under the brake master cylinder and up along the intake, to make it a little cleaner, just needing heat protection and spacing from exhaust.
Love the speed of your progress on this. You’re absolutely crushing it. And I’ll vote for routing the harness on the intake. Looks so much cleaner that way.Haha Yea, there's almost too much information out there, you have people that have posted the factory diagrams and others that have made their own pinouts with suggestions....You definitely have to decipher what peoples intent is, and have lots of patience. Like I said, with mine the seller cut off both bundles going down to the trans with O2 sensors, so that took a little longer to clean up. Plus, not everyone wants to keep cruise control and Factory A/C and other options, so a lot of info is conflicting
But at the same time its only possible because of all the diagrams, pinouts, and information that people have gathered, so I have to give a shout out to all the people that don't just do something for themselves but continue to support others...Huge resource!!
Especially you guys on here with a lot of the big answers to keep me moving along!!! I would have figured something out eventually, but probably wouldn't be as clean!
I got all my O2 and MAF connectors soldered on last night, and added the CPP wire, and PIN 17 for the 12V A/C Signal, just waiting on my BP Automotive fuse block to arrive tomorrow. I bought the stuff from Mouser to solder the PCM per the mod on LS1 tech, referenced on
Modifying P59 Blue/Green PCM's for Analog 12V A/C Request
We'll see what my motivation level is when the pieces arrive... I think this is the most simple way to go (other than the actual PCM soldering part)
I mocked up the harness last night, (it Fits) just trying to decide if I should route the main harness from the fender to the engine directly (similar to how GM did) or if I should push it back a little under the brake master cylinder and up along the intake, to make it a little cleaner, just needing heat protection and spacing from exhaust.
- Thread starter
- #131
Thanks, its about to slow down a little, I am working again this weekend, then we go on a Switzerland vacation, then I get back just in time to go fly fishing with @rkymtnflyfisher in Montana... so I have been trying to work on it as much as I can. Its getting there!
- Thread starter
- #132
It feels like this weekend was a slower pace than last weekend, we had a cookouts to go to on both days, so I didn't get everything done that I'd hoped. I was able to get the MAF connector soldered back on, and both of the upstream O2 sensor connectors I was able to steal from another harness I had. I also drapped the harness over the engine to look at routing and confirm everything reaches. I decided to route the main harness back against the firewall (between the fender mounted PCM and Engine)...I also moved the MAF connector up to the passenger side coil pack harness.
Today the BP Automotive fuse/relay box showed up so I was finally able to install it, and I think this harness will be done soon. I started to wrap up some of it and get it to take shape again. The only connections left are where the harness connects to the cruiser.
I went to a few parts stores today to track down all the various heater hoses and adapters to get that squared away. I got most of it, with a thing or two on order. I picked up the last few exhaust things I need also, it looks like I'll need to run 2.5" to get around the Marks bellhousing (bumpouts for starters on both sides) then I can use the reducers I bought to step up to 3" from there....
I also picked up a piece of Power steering return line and finished the power steering setup (may add a cooler in the future, but went without for now).
I just the JT Outfitters pressue line and bought an adapter to adapt it to the LS box.
Planning to put a little bit of corrugated wire loom over the pressure side to protect it from rubbing.
Today the BP Automotive fuse/relay box showed up so I was finally able to install it, and I think this harness will be done soon. I started to wrap up some of it and get it to take shape again. The only connections left are where the harness connects to the cruiser.
I went to a few parts stores today to track down all the various heater hoses and adapters to get that squared away. I got most of it, with a thing or two on order. I picked up the last few exhaust things I need also, it looks like I'll need to run 2.5" to get around the Marks bellhousing (bumpouts for starters on both sides) then I can use the reducers I bought to step up to 3" from there....
I also picked up a piece of Power steering return line and finished the power steering setup (may add a cooler in the future, but went without for now).
I just the JT Outfitters pressue line and bought an adapter to adapt it to the LS box.
Planning to put a little bit of corrugated wire loom over the pressure side to protect it from rubbing.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #134
I feel like I wasted several hours yesterday and today on the radiator shroud, but I guess either way its progress and I have a good plan to move forward with.....
I used CAD to work out the initial plan...Cardboard Aided Design
After taking measurements, and getting the template mocked up, I figured I could move forward with some metal, my buddy had some scraps of aluminum left over and offered them up for free.... I planned on tacking them with my Spool gun and borrowing a better TIG setup to finish it up...but once I go the metal and started working it, I realized how thin it was, and that it probably wasnt going to work....
It was a good practice of transfering what I had made with cardboard over to metal, but the spool gun just couldn't get a good weld without burning through the aluminum.... I am thinking I will just go pickup some steel and make it a little easier on myself...It felt like a few hours wasted, but I guess it only cost me time, and once I get some steel I should be good to go.
I used CAD to work out the initial plan...Cardboard Aided Design
After taking measurements, and getting the template mocked up, I figured I could move forward with some metal, my buddy had some scraps of aluminum left over and offered them up for free.... I planned on tacking them with my Spool gun and borrowing a better TIG setup to finish it up...but once I go the metal and started working it, I realized how thin it was, and that it probably wasnt going to work....
It was a good practice of transfering what I had made with cardboard over to metal, but the spool gun just couldn't get a good weld without burning through the aluminum.... I am thinking I will just go pickup some steel and make it a little easier on myself...It felt like a few hours wasted, but I guess it only cost me time, and once I get some steel I should be good to go.
- Thread starter
- #135
Well I moved on to 18ga steel, much easier to work with (with the mig I have). I got everything cut, bent & tacked up. Checked the fitment & got it ready to weld.
Glad I spent the time, plan to be driving this a lot & using A/C in the summer, so I want to have a radiator and fan that will keep everything cool! Should be able to weld & maybe get some paint in this tomorrow.
Glad I spent the time, plan to be driving this a lot & using A/C in the summer, so I want to have a radiator and fan that will keep everything cool! Should be able to weld & maybe get some paint in this tomorrow.
Before you bolt this in, would it be easier to cut into two halves to have easier access later??? Just trying to be helpful, not a criticism,
Ty!
- Thread starter
- #137
I appreciate it, I have thought about it... a lot of early 90's GM stuff was split in half (top and bottom) before they went to one-piece molded plastic ones. It definitely makes it easier to get to the fan clutch, fan, and water pump without draining and removing the radiator. Part of me just wants to leave it one-piece for now and if I have to remove it down the road I can cut it and weld on tabs and nutplates.....
