Builds Travis’s PNW LX570 (4 Viewers)

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Alignment sheet 👌🏻
 
One more angle:

You can see how OEM height sensor bolts to SPC UCAs and how I am still smashing my sway bar with the 12.50” wide tires lol.

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Between the ball joints, coil overs, new steering rack, new tie rods, and new sway bar links—everything feels like butter.

Also I’d love to know how the F Toyota decides where to put stickers on parts. It’s literally always in the worst spot.
 
  • I talked to a few post-AHC 570 owners and asked what they missed. I did this because I knew I had a bias. Look at my post history—I'm the first to show up with the soap box when an LX owner is curious about deleting AHC. (Spoiler: it's okay to change your mind, try it)
What did they miss? Be curious to hear your feedback after some seat time.

I'm also in the do I want to tear AHC out or not camp. But for now I'll keep it until something fails. At least being in SoCal I don't have to worry about rust too much 🤞
 
What did they miss? Be curious to hear your feedback after some seat time.

I'm also in the do I want to tear AHC out or not camp. But for now I'll keep it until something fails. At least being in SoCal I don't have to worry about rust too much 🤞

Mostly kneel and load leveling capability.
 
Can't say anything but good things about this build. You've spent time to know where you've been and where you want to go. As with most of us building over the long term, change and evolution is the norm and part of the fun. :popcorn:
 
Can't say anything but good things about this build. You've spent time to know where you've been and where you want to go. As with most of us building over the long term, change and evolution is the norm and part of the fun. :popcorn:

Cheers to that 🍻
 
One more angle:

You can see how OEM height sensor bolts to SPC UCAs and how I am still smashing my sway bar with the 12.50” wide tires lol.

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Between the ball joints, coil overs, new steering rack, new tie rods, and new sway bar links—everything feels like butter.

Also I’d love to know how the F Toyota decides where to put stickers on parts. It’s literally always in the worst spot.

RE sway bar, you might be able to use KDSS sway bar relocation bracket to bring the bar forward putting tire where the bar has the most clearance.
 
RE sway bar, you might be able to use KDSS sway bar relocation bracket to bring the bar forward putting tire where the bar has the most clearance.

🤔 never thought of that. I’ve got new bushings sitting on my shelf so may try that while I’m in there.
 
Any recommendations on the bushings? Mine are ripped. I used some generic poly sways in the back.

I bought all OEM. Considering the originals lasted like 175k miles I think they are probably pretty good.
 
I put 200–250 miles on this setup with a good mix of conditions.

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Overall I’m seriously impressed. I’ve made a couple of small adjustments to firm up some of the dive—+1 on high speed compressions and +2 on low speed compression. They where soft out if the box and close to perfect now.

I appreciate how I can clearly notice each change. While twisting a dial on the reservoir isn’t as easy as flicking a switch in the cab, my ability to tune is greater and I’ll never have to worry about de-pressuring AHC and hoping the pump primes.

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Yesterday I went up to the pass with some other cruiser buddies and had a blast. I can confirm that I’m still getting all my travel because I still hear fender liner in the front and tire on aluminum on my rear dissent.

The rebound on the dobinsons vs AHC feels a lot better. With my build, AHC would buck quite a bit on even moderately uneven terrain. Not so any more. I had a great time chasing my buddy’s much lighter GX down the mountain at 20-40mph and just gliding over road disturbances.

So what do I miss?

The rear hatch is a lot harder to get into. Being 5’ 6” I loved kneeling the truck and being able to reach the back of my fridge. I’m gonna mix it up with my drawers and may add a drop slide.

Related, I need a spotter to get into my garage because it’s so close.

Otherwise, not much else. If I had dynamic loads or towed I’m sure I’d have a longer list.
 
Oh one more thing. I need to do a zero point calibration at some point. I totally forgot about it until making a brisk hard left into a parking lot and the truck thought I was skidding and cut power.

If you lift your truck don’t forget this step.
 
Oh one more thing. I need to do a zero point calibration at some point. I totally forgot about it until making a brisk hard left into a parking lot and the truck thought I was skidding and cut power.

If you lift your truck don’t forget this step.

What’s this sorcery you speak of?
 
What’s this sorcery you speak of?

It calibrates the yaw sensor after suspension changes:

 
Second thing, new OEM headlights. My originals were trashed, way beyond polishing. New units are super expensive because the assembly includes all of the AFS servos etc. However when you see them side by side, it's all worth it:
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While I was in there, I removed my Hikari H11 low beams and did an HID retrofit. I ordered the 35w Xenon Depot XD kit with Philips bulbs. Install was straight forward.

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The output on these is so much better, and more importantly, even. The Hikari's were super bright in front and then trailed off quickly.

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Nothing super interesting of note for installation except that I had to pull off basically everything up front including my winch pack. Having a bullbar made it both easier in harder if that makes sense.

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The kit comes with a grommet for the pass through and I just drilled a 1" hole through the dust cap and liberally siliconed it. The ballasts and igniters are double-sided taped where I could fit them, however I did learn after the fact there this is a spot on the bottom of the light assembly for a ballast. Would have been tidy but I ain't pulling them out.

Last thing, I was thinking about @CharlieS 's post about yellow / amber fog lights and decided to give LaminX film a try. This stuff is super easy and forgiving if you do a wet install. I dont think I'll get rich yellow like my baja squadrons, but it will be nice to have warmer light that's closer to my HIDs.

Here is the whole facelift after a wash and opti-seal on the lights:

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Just purchased new lights with the Lexus sale for Christmas and not being able to look at the cloudy lights anymore.

Is there a programming or alignment procedure when installing the new lights? My 80 just had a level bubble.

What’s your take on the HID conversion since install? Would you do it again?
 
Just purchased new lights with the Lexus sale for Christmas and not being able to look at the cloudy lights anymore.

Is there a programming or alignment procedure when installing the new lights? My 80 just had a level bubble.

What’s your take on the HID conversion since install? Would you do it again?

No, the lights are controlled with the AFS servos. There are adjustment screws that move the whole assembly but I’ve never adjusted them.

I think HIDs are far superior to halogen and LED, unfortunately this set up failed twice and I gave up and went back to LEDs. I do intend on going back but trying to find a more robust ballast setup.
 

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