Builds The Escape Wagon Restoration (2 Viewers)

[EscapeWagon62]

View attachment 2472743View attachment 2472744I can’t take credit for the fabrication work . I believe it’s 1/4” steel with the holes drilled to match the bolt pattern on the cross member. I loosely bolted the bottom piece to the cross member and held it in place (to the frame), then clamped the vertical pieces (same diameter) and then tacked the three pieces together as well as to the frame. Dropped the cross member and then I burned them in. I’ve seen folks use 1/4” angle iron with the same results. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks. Jimmy

Thanks Jimmy!

 

[CenTXFJ60]

You’re gonna love the 55 conversion. I’m wrapping up my second 62 swap as we speak. Curious about your cross member and bell housing. You have the early version cross member and what I believe is the later bell housing (clocked “x” degrees). I’ve done 55 swaps on early 60’s using this cross member and not 100% certain this early cross member mates up with the later bell housing (alignment issues). I could be wrong but may want to verify. If this is the case the simple solution is to source a late 60 cross member. You want it clocked as that puts your shifter in the correct factory position. Also, what are your plans for mounting the cross member to the frame? Many simple options on this but one thing I learned on this last conversion is the angle of the cross member needs to have a slight rake. In other words you don’t want it to be flush to the frame on both the front and back. If you look at a late 60 you’ll see the factory setup has the cross member tilting down (3/4” gap between the back of the cross member and the frame). The front of the cross member will sit flush to the frame. You may already know this but thought I’d share as I made this mistake on my brothers 62 when I did his conversion years ago. The main issue this will cause is it puts the trans insulator in a bind and can cause premature failure. Here’s a pick I referenced for my last job. Good luck and feel free to ping me with any questions. Jimmy
View attachment 2468481View attachment 2468482Also added a pic showing how to re-wire things going to your trans/t-case. I don’t want to re-learn this next time I do a conversion . This by-passes the neutral safety switch.

Hey Ben, quick update on the pic of the wire set up. Figured out the other day that I made an error on this last one I did. The blue wire does not join in with the other two as noted in my previous pic. I was going off an old notes page from our friend Mr. Monroy. Not that his notes were wrong...just hard to interpret . My friend who owns this 62 I did the conversion on kept having issues with the wiper fuse blowing so he did some research and found a few threads dating back to 2010. This new picture does a great job showing which wires go where. I’ve saved this one to my files and thought you may want it. Also, here’s a link to the detailed thread. Out with the Semi-Old A440-In with the H55
Here’s a pic from Jeff that I used 4 years ago when I did my brothers 62. Was able to figure it out that time but did not do so well transcribing it on Ben’s (@Vasopressor ) conversion last month.

Here’s a very detailed pic from the 2010 thread that you’ll want to follow.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

You are awesome Jimmy!
Cant thank you enough.
Today is pedal bucket day....even though the tranny doesn’t do in til December.
I’ll own the only 3 pedal automatic on MUD.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

I got distracted and realized I didn’t have a hole saw for where the clutch master goes through he fire wall, want that on hand for pedal bucket install.
in the mean time I decided to work on the hard and soft clutch lines. As would be expected, rust.
I was fortunate enough to get the ends of the lines unfrozen and was able to separate the hard and soft line connector.
Hit them with PB blaster, waited, soaked them in CLR, hit them with PB blaster again.
Sanded the entire line down to get rid of surface rust and shot it with Rust Refoemer (except the ends of course)
just in case I have another soft line coming from SOR in case my application needs a different length.

QUESTION - I assume the metal tab mounts onto the truck to hold the hard/soft connector away from danger.. DOES ANYONE HAVE A PHOTO OF WHERE I SHOULD INSTALL IT?

 

[Skniper]

I think the bracket attaches low on the firewall...maybe spot welded on? You should be able to get an idea once you have everything in place and tack it in with a couple sheet metal screws.
Any 60 owner should be able to get a pic of it.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Thx @Skniper
Once I get a photo I’ll figure out how to attach. Heck, JB Weld ought to handle it!

 

[Vasopressor]

If you decide change your mind about the used clutch hard line, @CenTXFJ60 recommended a stainless braided clutch to slave line (from JT outfitters) for my FJ62 H55 swap and it worked great. Just an FYI...

 

[EscapeWagon62]

If you decide change your mind about the used clutch hard line, @CenTXFJ60 recommended a stainless braided clutch to slave line (from JT outfitters) for my FJ62 H55 swap and it worked great. Just an FYI...

I will likely order one though I’ll give the OEM portion a try first. Learning g as I go on this and since the hard/soft lines came with the conversion kit I figured I’d rehab it.
After I sanded it down I sprayed it with rust reformer (excluding the ends) and then subsequently read that painting hard lines never works (movement, expansion/contraction etc). That’s the risk when you learn one step at a time

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Well, still no hole saw so I decided to install the replacement accelerator cable I bought a couple years ago. I used the Pioneer CA 9013 that @LAMBCRUSHER recommended FJ62 Accelerator cable length
As noted you have to shave down the white washer to fit through the hole in the pedal bracket. I also had to narrow up the two Tabs on the oblong piece that sits on the inside of the firewall since I couldn’t get a flush fit with the accelerator pedal bracket that bolts on top of it.
One thing to know, I have this cable adjusted to the longest it can be and it’s barely keeping the cable tension snug on the throttle body, If it stretches I’ll have some pedal play before gas kicks in.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Well the first and second place I ordered a late model cross member didn’t actually have them.
Luckily SOR had one in stock. That plus an insulator I found on EBay and I think I’ve got the correct setup for the H55f.

Any comments welcome...I figure I have two complete ways to build now. If anyone sees something funky let me know.
I‘ll clean up the crossmember and insulator tomorrow. Thanks to @CenTXFJ60 for some advice And photos given on building brackets for the late model.

I also got around to putting in the new pedal bump pads.

AND....my hole saw bit arrived so onwards to the pedal bucket swap.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Well, here we go. The first vehicle modification in prep for the tranny swap, Got some advice from @Skniper to do the pedal swap in advance because it’s a pain.

HOLY A$$$WHOOPIN BATMAN. It might be my new least favorite procedure to date. I should have taken yoga classes, sedatives and muscle relaxants.


Removed Driver seat (very important size you’ll spend the next few hours o you back
Removed the brake pedal from the pedal bucket
Removed lower dash and instrument cluster and lower A/C ducts

Removed the brake booster completely (Brake lines disconnected). I did this since I’m running the hard clutch lines and it routes behind the booster
Removed the steering wheel, steering column. There is really no way to get around this, space is too tight. four bolts on the firewall, two big nuts on the bottom of the steering column, and remove completely the bolt holding the steering shaft to the steering column and pull the whole assembly though the firewall into the passenger cabin. I used some vice grips and a rubber mallet to separate the steering column.
There are three electrical connectors to disconnect but nothing troubling

Called in some buddies for help

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Taking out the old pedal bucket s where the fun begins. There a three bolts on the bottom where the steering wheel cowling normally sits, easy.
There are four nuts removed where the brake booster attached AND THEN there are 4 bolts in a faceplate that sit vertically to the floorboard. Three of them are accessible but you{ll want a ratchet extention and 12mm wobble head. The fourth bolt (upper right hand side looking out the windshield) is a bear. I used a wrench lying on my back making 1/8 turn at a time until I got it. Do this bolt first!!!

 

[EscapeWagon62]

My pedal bucket was stuck to the rubber insulation alomg the firewall. Used a screwdriver to pry it loose
Once the bucket is out you to drill for your clutch master.
The placement is easy since the locations are stamped into the firewall
I drilled a small pilot hole in each spot and used a 35mm hole saw for the center and 3/8” bit for the two small holes.
The center and right side holes were drilled from inside the cabin. The left side hole was drilled from engine compartment since there wasn’t clearance inside. The pilot hole was critical for this one.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Putting the new pedal bucket in has some challenges as well.
Its a tight fit and I kept getting the rubber gasket insulation caught behind it. I set the pedal bucket in with the protruding bolt for the clutch master through the firewall and wrestled it into place from there (making several failed attempts due to insulation misalignment. I have three of the 4 horizontal bolts, the three underside bolts and the clutch bolt in place but I’m calling it a night.
Clutch lines, pedals, brake booster and reassembly tomorrow.

 

[Skniper]

Yessir, good progress! It’s a b!tch.

Looks like you paint marked the steering splines, good move.
I had holy hell (like everyone does) getting to the upper right bolt and ended up removing the entire defrost duct which has its challenges as well. Also had the dash cap off for overall access...it’s easy to remove and did a TON of cleanup inside the dash including all the air ducts and foam reseal everything.

Curious from your last post how well all your bolt holes line up on the firewall and the upper dash brace. I had to cut out the insulation to get a good fit, also had to cut out the insulation above the clutch pedal bracket on the left. Interstingly there is an indention in the 62 dash to accommodate the clutch bracket, but the insulation was too thick to let the bracket fit up in there. Required lots of utility knife work in there. Then had to “persuade“ things in place with a bottle jack, I did not like doing that but it ultimately worked...after it screwed up some other things in the process.

Oh and disconnect the battery if you didn’t, once the brake light switch is plugged in the brake lights will stay on the entire time until you get the brake pedal hooked up against the switch again.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Yessir, good progress! It’s a b!tch.

Looks like you paint marked the steering splines, good move.
I had holy hell (like everyone does) getting to the upper right bolt and ended up removing the entire defrost duct which has its challenges as well. Also had the dash cap off for overall access...it’s easy to remove and did a TON of cleanup inside the dash including all the air ducts and foam reseal everything.

Curious from your last post how well all your bolt holes line up on the firewall and the upper dash brace. I had to cut out the insulation to get a good fit, also had to cut out the insulation above the clutch pedal bracket on the left. Interstingly there is an indention in the 62 dash to accommodate the clutch bracket, but the insulation was too thick to let the bracket fit up in there. Required lots of utility knife work in there. Then had to “persuade“ things in place with a bottle jack, I did not like doing that but it ultimately worked...after it screwed up some other things in the process.

Oh and disconnect the battery if you didn’t, once the brake light switch is plugged in the brake lights will stay on the entire time until you get the brake pedal hooked up against the switch again.

Just finished up and will post soon. I ran into the same issue with insulation above the clutch pedal and thought about a bottle jack. I just wrestled it and eventually got it done without cutting out insulation (there or at the steering column firewall interface.
Certainly Would have helped to have a second set of hands but since it was freezing, the only help I got was emotional support from the dogs.
thought about pulling the dash pad but saw that the defrost would still be in the way.
And for the brake switch, noticed that and unhooked it!
Thanks for all of your help

 

[EscapeWagon62]

OK, day 2.
Turns out the 35mm hole saw is just shy of being wide enough to fully seat the clutch master. Had to Dremmel it a bit wider which only took a minute, Cut new gaskets for the brake booster and clutch master,

Put the steering column back in which was easy. Just attach Vice grips to the lower steering shaft and rubber mallet it back into the steering column until the bolt can seat in the grove on the lower shaft.

The hard clutch line is an origami exercise and would be much easier for two people to do. You absolutely have to do this before installing the brake booster. There are two brake line mounts that have room for a 3rd line. The clutch line follows the brake lines until they departs heading towards the ground on the passenger side. Once I fished it into roughly the right spots (try #5) I put the clutch line into the brake mounting guides and tightened them up. I then loosed up the the clutch master to give me some wiggle room to install the line into the clutch master and then tightened it all up.

Pedals installed and reattached the brake light switch which I removed from its harness connector so the brake lights wouldn’t be on all day. Note: It’s a blue connector to blue connector interface. I accidentally attached it to an identical looking white connector and of weird beeping noises when I hit the brake pedal.

Other than that reassembly was a breeze.

This project took me the better part of two days as a solo.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

And the interior

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Smiling see that master in place. Kudos!

 

[georgebj60]

Do you still need this?