Builds The Escape Wagon Restoration (1 Viewer)

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Question on my clutch throwout bearing. I just had the one that came in my clutch kit installed onto the clutch hub.
The bearing looks quite different from the one that was installed (and rusted solid) on the used clutch hub I sourced.
Since the bearing came with my Aisin kit I assume its the correct bearing but would love to get a second opinion.
In another step forward I got my drive shafts back from being balanced.

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Hey Ben, I may be wrong but believe that throw out bearing on the left is for an earlier set up. I’ve seen a few of those in my barn but not 100% certain what they came out of. Every late model 60 I’ve done used the one on the right as Felicity noted.
 
Hey Ben, I may be wrong but believe that throw out bearing on the left is for an earlier set up. I’ve seen a few of those in my barn but not 100% certain what they came out of. Every late model 60 I’ve done used the one on the right as Felicity noted.
Thank you. The one on the left was attached to the clutch hub I got from the junkyard.
 
Some victories and some defeats tonight.
I was excited that I got the intake chamber off without having to pull the fuel rail. Then I found out it had to be removed as I progress through the layers of the engine to replace the exhaust/manifold gasket. Bigger job than I expected.

Ive tagged and bagged the injectors and will bring them to a shop tomorrow for cleaning and balancing.

Got stuck on the heat shields. As the bolts gods intended, the only stuck bolt was the least accessible and I‘m 4/5ths of the way through grinding it off (the blue towel in the foreground it to keep crap out of the exposed fuel snd engine parts). Tried PB blaster, “extra bite” ratchet attachment, vice grips Etc. Had to go with a Dremmel and will figure out how to fix it all later.

Somewhat worried I’ll experience that on some of the exhaust bolts so im soaking them in PB overnight.

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50/50 ATF and acetone is good one too. Heat then the mix... it gets pulled right in by the acetone.
 
If you or any of you connections need an A440F (free) let me know.
With all of the adjustments Ive done its operating flawlessly though it preferrs the vehicle to be warmed up for 5 minutes before driving.

Its never been off roaded snd never towed anything.

230k on the clock so maybe a good backup for anyone still using an auto.

It’ll come out of my rig mid December and would be a free for pickup in Spingfield MA area.

Ill post it in the classifieds once its out but figured Id pre-offer on my own thread in advance.
 
Thais Felicity, yes, I’d happily give it a Home! I’m close, just let me know when. Can deliver beer or parts exchange too
 
Thais Felicity, yes, I’d happily give it a Home! I’m close, just let me know when. Can deliver beer or parts exchange too
Done, it's yours.
I'll keep you posted on timing. My plan is for mid-December removal.
@NeverGiveUpYota is an A440F match-maker on top of her other skills.
I'll PM you with my contact info.
 
Like peeling an onion I finally made it to, and removed, the intake and exhaust manifolds.
Victory! But as they say, 70% of the people that die on Mount Everest die on the way down. We’ll see how I feel when I start putting it back together.
The injectors are off at Hurst Injector service and should be back in a few days.
The guys at Charlie Arment Trucking were kind enough to fabricate my cross member brackets in exchange for some beer money.
I’ll probably pull the downpipes and clean them up since you can see then through the wheel well and they are ORANGE with rust.
I’ll replace some of the pipes and muffler next season unless I get bored snd do it sooner.

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And the after photos
Just used Krud Kutter and a scotchbrite on the air intake and flame proof paint on the exhaust manifold.
I was going tp clean up the exhaust pipes since you can see one of them through the front wheel well but the bolts are way too far gone to attempt removal. I’ll get them cleaned up when I do the whole exhaust next year.

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Got the injectors back, based on the test results I bet the rig drives better. I recently installed a new fuel pressure damper which helped and now I’ll put in a new fuel pressure regulator since the fuel rail is out.
Shot the downpipes with flameproof primer and paint for solely aesthetic reasons (never liked the look of the rust on the pipe visible from the front wheel well,

Started re-installing everything. Exhaust and intake manifolds in place and torqued to spec. Found the correct donut gasket for the down pipe flange, the AutoZone computer kept recommending a larger gasket. Brought my old one down and found an exact match.

Fuel rail, intake chamber etc goes in tomorrow.

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Man that looks great! Scroll up and look at the before photo,wow. Good info on the exhaust donut.
This is next on my list. I redid the intake and injectors many years ago, but a loud tick and a broken exhaust stud up front is inspiring another refresh like yours. Will also do a full desmog with air rail removal.

Your photos are really good and great reminders of what is involved.
 
Man that looks great! Scroll up and look at the before photo,wow. Good info on the exhaust donut.
This is next on my list. I redid the intake and injectors many years ago, but a loud tick and a broken exhaust stud up front is inspiring another refresh like yours. Will also do a full desmog with air rail removal.

Your photos are really good and great reminders of what is involved.
After all that work I think my exhaust tick was just one of the downpipe flange donut gaskets. It was a repair I did way back when and used the one originally recommended by the parts store. I remember having a helluva time seating it....this one went together like butter.
And I got to learn about fuel rails, injectors etc.
Fun journey.
 
Nice work. It really looks great. On the flame proof paint and primer, did you do any kind of pre-cure before installing the parts, or does it air dry just enough to handle and reinstall? I assume cure process will be per on-vehicle instructions (assuming VHT brand), yes? Any tips on using that paint?
 
Nice work. It really looks great. On the flame proof paint and primer, did you do any kind of pre-cure before installing the parts, or does it air dry just enough to handle and reinstall? I assume cure process will be per on-vehicle instructions (assuming VHT brand), yes? Any tips on using that paint?
I cured my exh mani in my oven for the first two cycles then on the vehicle for third but it still flaked.
 
Nice work. It really looks great. On the flame proof paint and primer, did you do any kind of pre-cure before installing the parts, or does it air dry just enough to handle and reinstall? I assume cure process will be per on-vehicle instructions (assuming VHT brand), yes? Any tips on using that paint?
First time I’ve done flameproof so my expectations are low.
The areas I sprayed are mostly goig to be covered my the heat shield.
I degreased everything, then hit it with some solvent, primed, waited a day, sprayed.
I’ll do an update after a couple of months..
long way of saying....I did’t actually read any directions 👍
 
Slow progress today
I absolutely didn’t take enough photos when taking things apart. Specifically how wiring harnesses etc were arranged, does the main harness go on the engine side of the EFI brace or brake booster side Etc.
At least three times I had to undo something to reroute.

Threw a new fuel pressure regulator in, installing the injectors was a breeze. Put a new plenum gasket on as well.

Reinstalling the air chamber with the air rail heat shield snd smog/fuel stuff underneath is a complete pain.

home stretch....should be running tomorrow.

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IT’S ALIVE!
Got it all back together. Experienced yet another wire routing issue where the connectors for the TPS and Idle Control Valve wouldn’t reach since it was routed around the forward air chamber stay. Easy re-route.
It you do this job, dont be me, tale photos of all of your wiring routing during dissambly.

For curing the flameproof paint, I warmed up the truck, let it cool down, warmed it up for longer, cooled it down the. Took it for a 30 min trip. Best I can do since all the painted surfaces were installed when I read up on the curing peocess.
If the paint doesnt last...no biggie. I was just killing time waiting for the injectors to come back anyway.

ALSO - The engine is significantly more responsive snd idles smoother with cleaned snd balanced injectors.

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IT’S ALIVE!
Got it all back together. Experienced yet another wire routing issue where the connectors for the TPS and Idle Control Valve wouldn’t reach since it was routed around the forward air chamber stay. Easy re-route.
It you do this job, dont be me, tale photos of all of your wiring routing during dissambly.

For curing the flameproof paint, I warmed up the truck, let it cool down, warmed it up for longer, cooled it down the. Took it for a 30 min trip. Best I can do since all the painted surfaces were installed when I read up on the curing peocess.
If the paint doesnt last...no biggie. I was just killing time waiting for the injectors to come back anyway.

ALSO - The engine is significantly more responsive snd idles smoother with cleaned snd balanced injectors.

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Nice work! Its is definitely a satisfying and worthwhile job on these old rigs!
 

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