Restoration FJ62 Ongoing (1 Viewer)

[TexasLandCruiser]

PWM fan controller arrived hoping to gain some headspace not hearing my fan running 24/7. Redid my mount on fender with fresh paint. Mishimoto controller 30% with AC activated and engages at 190 up to 100% top of the arc 230

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

One of the things I’ve wanted to do is unhide all the little hidden fuses and breakers. Stuff tie wrapped to harnesses everywhere. Waytek had these breaker busses to hold the dysfunction.

Also cleaned up a few ground points with fresh metal and copper washers. Little paint on the edges where rust creeps in. And some fresh hardware for the drawer

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

Not the prettiest thing ever but the little Bussman bar for the breakers is handy. Mounted to some flat stock and bolt in a rivnut

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

The updated pic is me having to open up the install I just did to put a relay above the fan controller. While I was there hung everything next to the Blue Sea box. Trying to get things lined up to add a few systems. I’ll be painting that controller bracket/ rack. The Mishimoto controller will control brushed axle fans from 10% to 100% with an AC or toggle switch control in the harness. There are others but they came recommend. This controller has only been on the market for 2 months so guinea pig it…

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

This week I put some 100/80 Hella H4 bulbs in the low beam slot. Considerably brighter than the 60/55. I’m getting old and need more light. While I was in there cleaned up the old fluid film from summer. 2 years ago I pulled everything off the front support and painted and cleaned up. Originally I had that corrugated plastic harness wrap, but it’s bulky and can retain water, which happened inside the engine bay 2 years ago. It rotted some connections. So wrapped everything in the modernized porous and looks nice less bulk.

The powder coated roof rack feet had some rust from me setting on a stand while I cleaned up the gutters. Something to think about is the stress you put on these clamps that hold them to the gutters. Make sure you’ve got foam that won’t hold water as a buffer, don’t over torque the bolts and for gods sake do not stand up there. I know the weight is distributed but between the wind, vibration, pressure and weather those drip rails and structure take a beating. They need your love and kindness.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

After cleaning up the front support I washed out the lens housings and happy with a wall of mercury light 100/80 Hella and IPF 55 watt

 

[sschruff]

****. One of the better threads I've viewed and the OCD attention to every detail. . .hits all of my personal buttons. Very impressive and hats off to you and the incredible work/resto you're accomplishing.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

f***. One of the better threads I've viewed and the OCD attention to every detail. . .hits all of my personal buttons. Very impressive and hats off to you and the incredible work/resto you're accomplishing.

Why thank you sir. Hard to do it any other way. Nothing else is under control around me so I’ll go in the garage and fix stuff

 

[sschruff]

Why thank you sir. Hard to do it any other way. Nothing else is under control around me so I’ll go in the garage and fix stuff

100% relatable!

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

Tonight I sanded 2nd to final coat then top coated the Gobi brackets/attach points. Sand blasted off the powder coat, 2k primer and then 3 coats of epoxy black. I baked between coats. When dry sanding the 2nd coat the single stage Rustoleum black (refrigerator) was so hard no primer showed. Pretty good stuff for can.

Spent little more time on these because they basically lay on cabin roof and the minor gutter clean I did freaked me out. I think the drainage just coming down those brackets straight onto the roof had an impact, dissimilar, maybe but that’s where we had to make repairs. Used a heat gun to bring up the temps of metal and the paint. Cold front came through, it’s dry but 50 degrees. The brackets are stamped LC60, that’s cool. I won’t paint over black coal blast again, never could get paint smooth. However the rack is satin/matte so perhaps the rough look will help blend in. I am glad I went with paint. Some body guys will argue about it but done right it’ll be as tough and easier to touch up.

I used a Dremel to knock off the weld slag left from manufacturing, the slag spots were poking through causing weak spot in paint

 

[Rabrownmkiv]

Beautiful work! Love it all. You've given me about 1,000+ more things to do to my cruiser to clean up the years of PO's jobs and general time deterioration.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

Beautiful work! Love it all. You've given me about 1,000+ more things to do to my cruiser to clean up the years of PO's jobs and general time deterioration.

It definitely becomes contagious once started. Best thing for me is I’m working back through stuff I’ve cleaned before so quick in and out.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

Roof rack parts are a beating. Require a lot of patience but finally able to start putting everything together. 2k primer and some epoxy black. Stainless fasteners (shiny bits) and cut some new 1/16” rubber isolator pads between brackets and Gobi rack. 1/4” closed foam strips.

 

[banieldowen]

Nothing else is under control around me so I’ll go in the garage and fix stuff

This sentence hits me in the soul.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

This sentence hits me in the soul.

It’s a brutal world. I’ve got Led Zeppelin on in the garage, 65 degree and sunny. Just don’t answer the phone

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

Rebuilt EFI relay harness and built mount for ignition, Dakota Digital RPM box and my OBD plug. Real happy with the mount. Was able to mount to existing brake booster bracket. Hung it vertical to give plenty of room. I’ve decided if the end of the world doesn’t happen, next year I’m going to remove the dash and clean out wiring. The factory passenger side loom is now half the size so pull that back inside and tie off better. Sealed each wire, pumped the shrink tube full of silicone then shrank it. Keep any wires from getting funky. I did pull fuses for those systems but not 1000% sure there could be something that’s triggered by a light or something.

 

[kirvesmies]

It’s a brutal world. I’ve got Led Zeppelin on in the garage, 65 degree and sunny. Just don’t answer the phone

nothing like some immigrant lookin' for the stairway to motivate your production out in the shop. n, yeah, times 2 on the phone. keep up the clean work mister

 

[Dubs2017]

Man your electrical is so clean. Looking good.

Our of curiosity, what is your EFI relay still controlling with the swap? I trimmed all of that out when I went through mine. The underdash section was time consuming to remove. This is the pile that ended up getting removed.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

Man your electrical is so clean. Looking good.

Our of curiosity, what is your EFI relay still controlling with the swap? I trimmed all of that out when I went through mine. The underdash section was time consuming to remove. This is the pile that ended up getting removed.

View attachment 3498540

That’s a good question. The EFI relay did nothing. I’d thought they utilized it when they did the swap, nah just lazy. I spent time cleaning up that relay one day and when I started it I looked down and had the relay in my hand and was like wait how is the running. It’s all on the stand alone. As for all the old engine wires that go through the passenger side I cut short and sealed closed. Spring time I’ll pull it all back through and try to remove as much as I can all the way to the fuse block at drivers knee

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

Here’s the Dakota box, and ignition power block. Real happy with the outcome on it. I’ll use this platform to move misc stuff around so not overloading something that was wired in elsewhere like radio, foglights etc

I’ve used quite a bit of various brands of tape and just found the best stuff. 3M Temflex. My harness guy used some on the new relay harness and it is super tough, weathers well and I did a burn test and lasted 30 second without curling up