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J mack,

look into making your own disc e-brake. They sell them, but some have problems holding, also. I would think you could come up with something like a motorcycle brake, etc.
 
This is the part that has me scratching my head

Scratching your head??

I searched the world over for an OE split case drum brake, literally sourcing parts from Japan, Australia, California and Iran.....and it's not even a functional set up.

In the spirit of keeping it OE (which is dumb...not like Pigs ever came with split cases/H55s) felt it the most elegant solution, and it may work for my purposes for many years. Can't say yet.

In retrospect (and my input if your running the OE 55 width front axle) I wish I'd gone with a FF40 rear axle, or 7X front and rear axles (to gain a better PS setup than I chose and FF rear) It
would've been a much better solution and just as "OE-ish" as what I have.

Otherwise, the TC disk brake or line locks are a more feasible solution that probably outperform the TC drum, anyday. It only seems logical that any ebrake be a back up to the hydraulic brake system, but my issue with line locks were the aesthetics ..... And they're too easy to source.

About all I can claim any real success at is sourcing parts,
( as I now realize ) as soon as I hear "pink unicorn" my vision narrows like a greyhound's on a rabbit, completely abandoning any ability for rational thought..... just gotta get the rabbit.
 
J mack,

look into making your own disc e-brake. They sell them, but some have problems holding, also. I would think you could come up with something like a motorcycle brake, etc.

I recently bought a 60 for the lockers and axles and I like your setup but I’m lazy when it comes to things like E-brakes and I was looking for something down and dirty.

I’ll most likely put a Swagelok/Whitey valve on the dash for now to use for short term temporary parking until I can decide on the best way to do it right.
 
image.jpg
image.jpg
Lot of guys run these....
 
Scratching your head??


In retrospect (and my input if your running the OE 55 width front axle) I wish I'd gone with a FF40 rear axle, or 7X front and rear axles (to gain a better PS setup than I chose and FF rear) It
would've been a much better solution and just as "OE-ish" as what I have.


My idea is/was to cut the 60 axles to stock 55 width when I cut and rotate the balls to get proper caster.

Then I started looking at the Ruffstuff full floater kit for the rear end and I don’t have a good reason for wanting it other than its shiny.

This all started when I rebuilt my existing front end without rotating the balls and after adding power steering and having -.5 * caster it’s not much fun to drive, I put 2* shims in and made it much better but I don’t like the idea of shims. So if I need to rebuild another front end again so soon I want to do it one last time with all updated Longfield axles and ARB lockers and whatever wiz bang thing that will prevent me from ever think about it again. At this point I’m still looking at what makes the most sense and still keeps the mostly stock appearance of the 55.



Lot of guys run these....

If I were smart I would just buy that kit and drive on.
Thanks for reminding me that i should listen to reason sometimes.
 
Thanks for reminding me that i should listen to reason sometimes.

I wish it were from a standpoint of inherent wisdom, but quite the contrary.

I've discounted all advice from the uber wise, which is why all three "builds" are in the condition they are.

Anyhow.....Woody's experience with line locks seem favorable.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hydraulic-parking-brake.801340/#post-9146037

If you really want to throw caution to the wind and keep it OE, Alberto has a set of elocked 70 axles for sale, which address most all your concerns, but OE in form and the correct width.
 
The other option is using a late 40 rear axle, they had the same integrated e-brake in the rear drums like 60s ;) You can also swap the ends off the 60 axle you've got similar to a cut & turn to get the correct bolt pattern on your current axle ...

Here's mine, was a bolt on swap and simple other than having to rebuild (the single cylinder drum is better than the stock dual setup as well) -



Tucker
 
So, has anyone cut down a rear 60 series housing to make it 40 series width? If so were they able to use the stock 40 axle shafts? This would solve the parking brake problem and give you self adjusting rear brakes.
 
Thanks Tucker, sounds like I probably need to stop and learn a bit more about these Toyota's before it bankrupts me :hillbilly:
 
So, has anyone cut down a rear 60 series housing to make it 40 series width? .
why would you bother? the 3" width adds stability and you barely notice the extra 1 1/2" per side.
 
why would you bother? the 3" width adds stability and you barely notice the extra 1 1/2" per side.

The reason was to protect the uncut rear fenders from my 34's on stock rims, but maybe the 1 1/2" won't make a difference, I'll have to look.
 
it will depend on your lift vs. tire, but my 35x12.5s fit under the lip on my soa
 
The reason was to protect the uncut rear fenders from my 34's on stock rims, but maybe the 1 1/2" won't make a difference, I'll have to look.

I got wheels with a 2" backspace, adds an inch & half
snowday 102.JPG
on each side, approximates the width of a 60 axle...while SOA, 37x14.5s don't bother my mostly uncut rear fenders.
 
Did you outboard you springs when you mounted the 60 axles?
 
rear doesn't need to be out boarded, just the front. i haven't done the front yet.
 
I had to out board both front and rear. If not, you have to move the spring pads on the axle housing. Correct?
 
I thought I had read that someone made a kit to relocate the perches on a 60 axle but it only worked for SOA?
I just put new OME 3" springs and like the look with the SUA so I'm thinking that narrowing the 60 housing to the 40 width might be my best option sense I need to remove the balls anyway.
 
If going to the trouble and expense of narrowing axles and ARBs, are elocked 70 axles out of the question?

I've ulterior motives, since I continually drool over Alberto's, yet can't justify the purchase since I've nothing that "needs", but they address the concerns and keep it all Toyota.

Before buying into the e locker is inferior to ARB, I've ran all OE without issues. Can machine the splines down where the shift fork rides, eliminating (in theory...but untested) having to cut the housing when SS rear shaft breaks or twists.
 

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