rear body mounts (4 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Thanks
Kinda stoked! If I were drinking right now I’d be drunk in the garage!

I think it’s called kurfing. I kurfed A line about 1/3 -1/2 of the thickness with a thin cutting wheel and then heated and bent

Now is to get to the mounts! I just can’t seem to fugure a way to make tank brackets rest on top of the frame brackets. I figure just bolt the tank up from the bottom. But worry the it will all ne supported by only the bolts.

tomorrow I start on that mystery.

Another pic for fun



AB377204-F070-40FE-B31F-A6EDDF340CD3.jpeg
I
 
Was worried about stress on the bolts and then breaking
I apologize if I’m a little slow this morning but I’m not getting what you are saying.

The bolts holding my tank in are 3/8” grade 8 (only because that’s what I have here) and from memory each bolt is 9000+ LB load rated clamping and 4000+ sheer. Don’t quote those numbers but you get the idea one 3/8” bolt would hold your fuel tank and never fail under normal circumstances, I’m assuming you’ll have four bolts holding a 300 LB tank to your frame rails and I don’t see a scenario where that fails without major damage to everything surrounding it.
 
Ya, I am with JMack. I have grade 8s holding my tank too. My Pig is the old style where the tank goes to the body, so the body will probably fail well before the bolts I used will.
 
80 series only have shim(s) on the top. See post #18 in this thread for torque information: Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/front-axle-rebuild-for-faq.78276/

You should be fine if you just reuse the "skinny one on top" and, again, don't use any on the bottom.

I am trying to remember where I read/saw this, but don't you install shims such that there is between 3-5kg resistance when turning the hub once fully torqued? I agree with @WarDamnEagle re put back what was there and test, but if the drag is excessively tight or loose once bolted up, you may want to investigate further...

I know the FSM for 40/55/60 talks about using the knuckle centering tool to make sure the knuckle is centered, and has the proper pre-load.

I would look at the 80 FSM for guidance.
 
Talk about over build, maybe.
Chalk it off to practice for engine mounts. That rubber is from the pads that cushioned the middle of the body. I was worried I was hoarding, but it was the perfect rubber for this.
View attachment 2604464

That’s not going to hold a bird fart. Add more brackets. Belt and suspenders fella 👊😉
 
Looking at the steering column. Don"t have one.
Would like to get a tilt column and have found IDIDIT and Flaming River. I have heard of a GM option and as well I think that the 60s have a tilt. Am thinking of gettng cruise control into the mess as well. Heard that Mosley sells an option.

Appealing to the forum knowledge on this one. Anyone had experience with this endeavor?
 
Looking at the steering column. Don"t have one.
Would like to get a tilt column and have found IDIDIT and Flaming River. I have heard of a GM option and as well I think that the 60s have a tilt. Am thinking of gettng cruise control into the mess as well. Heard that Mosley sells an option.

Appealing to the forum knowledge on this one. Anyone had experience with this endeavor?
I installed a GM column in mine. It was easy to fab and adapt. If you plan on a Painless or EzWiring harness they both plug in to the column without any wire termination work. It makes wiring easy.

I haven't hooked up my wiring for cruise control yet, but with the right GM column it'll all be there and it looks like just making 3-4 wire connections to the GM ECM if you go with the GM motor.

My GM column has wiper/washer control but to adapt it to the stock 55 motor requires some relay work so I didn't connect it.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom