rear body mounts

[NookShneer]

How about now? I know you have been wrenching.

 

[xtiaan2000]

Waiting on cone nuts and Nuthuggers.

 

[xtiaan2000]

I’m rich, bitches!

 

[xtiaan2000]

So I am getting this front axle all tidied up. When I started to take it appart there were many things not that great- no dust sheilds, missing knuckle bearing bolts, 3 of the 8 spindle bolts, etc. Not a big deal.

Now my plea for guidance.

Every knuckle that I have done has been to always remove the knuckle shims and keep them in order so that they go right back where they were. On this 80 alxe there was 1 skinny one on top and none on the bottom. Both sides were the same. Now, was there none there becasue the PO took them off and just didnt replace, or do 80s only have one on top/ non on the bottom from the factory?

With my gasket kit I got 8 new shims. I have seen a video where they put 2 on top and 2 on the bottom, torqued, and then checked the load. Then they removed one from on top and bottom retorqued, and then were satisfied. All the rest of the videos didnt address it at all.

Seems like it should be best to imagine that the bottoms were just not replaced...?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

80 series only have shim(s) on the top. See post #18 in this thread for torque information: Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/front-axle-rebuild-for-faq.78276/

You should be fine if you just reuse the "skinny one on top" and, again, don't use any on the bottom.

 

[YukonCruisers]

I am trying to remember where I read/saw this, but don't you install shims such that there is between 3-5kg resistance when turning the hub once fully torqued? I agree with @WarDamnEagle re put back what was there and test, but if the drag is excessively tight or loose once bolted up, you may want to investigate further...

 

[xtiaan2000]

Great news. Thanks!

 

[xtiaan2000]

While I am just sitting around thought I might as welll do now what I had planned for the future.
Certainly looks better taking up space in the garage.

A little PrettyPor15

 

[xtiaan2000]

So as I have been watching the work Rush55 has been doing on his gas tank my eye wondered over to what I have to work.
My current situation is 4 bolts through the bed down through the tank with a suppport on the bottom.

Goal is to use the same tank and have the thing hang off the frame instead instead of the body.

 

[xtiaan2000]

My idea is 3/16 tray to double as holder and skid plate. Put some thick rubber between the tank and tray with some strapping over the top to secure to the plate.

I am unsure if 3/16 is thick enough.
I know Jmack used 3/8 or 1/2 inch.
Any guidance out there.

 

[RUSH55]

3/16” steel? Should be more than enough. Like where you’re going with this

 

[xtiaan2000]

Thanks
I am still learning what thicknesses I need for the different stresses/ strengths.

 

[bobm]

Put some drain holes in that skid plate. So the will wash out

 

[scrapdaddy]

This....I find all kinds of stuff hanging out of the drain holes. I used 3/16 steel plate also.

 

[wngrog]

Very small chance of hitting the fuel cell right behind the axle.

 

[xtiaan2000]

Yes, as I was looking at Jmack's I noticed the drain hole towards the front.

The previous skid plate I had was 1/8 inch. I am thinking 3/16 more to hold the weight of the tank from the outside brackets across.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Very small chance of hitting the fuel cell right behind the axle.

I banged mine on some Moab rocks that made my mind up real quick to make a skid plate.

 

[xtiaan2000]

As per the first pic , I have hit it a few times as well.

 

[J Mack]

I know Jmack used 3/8 or 1/2 inch.
Any guidance out there.

2X2X1/4" angle iron frame and skin it with 1/2" or 3/8" UHMW on the bottom for a skid plate.
Lighter,stronger and more impact resistant not to mention easier to build than making it from 3/16 steel sheet alone

 

[xtiaan2000]

I had seen you mention UHMW. What is that?