Project "Sparkles"-1997 LX450 Gen V 6.2 Swap (4 Viewers)

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That looks awesome. Those fans are really good
 
How hot does it get in your part of Texas? I’m on the fence yet on any LS/LT swap here in AZ as I know others have struggled with keeping engine temps in check here. The DI aspect of an LT concerns me some too, but the Torfab solution is very tempting…
 
How hot does it get in your part of Texas? I’m on the fence yet on any LS/LT swap here in AZ as I know others have struggled with keeping engine temps in check here. The DI aspect of an LT concerns me some too, but the Torfab solution is very tempting…
The DI is nothing to be worried about. L86 is all aluminum and run very cool. This rig will see trails all summer long with 2 kids and AC plus it’ll tow a camper there and back. I wanted all the cooking I could get and still run like stock. These will also ramp up and down with AC pressure so it should run Icey cold with the new radiator.
 
Got some work on the 6.2 done tonight. Started by removing the vacuum pump and oil cooler bulkhead. And installed the Tejas Saginaw pump conversion kit. These engines do not come factory with an hydraulic PS pump so the Tejas kit is very cool. The kit comes plugs for the vacuum pump oil lines and even has a provision for adding an oil pressure sender if needed. (More on that next)

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Here is the install of the Tejas kit. In the first pic you see the bracket bolts to the factory vacuum pump location and you see the cut out for the oil pressure sender (if you want) I’m either putting my factory oil sender there( with an adapter) or on the oil cooler block off I ordered from Earls.

The Tejas kit is 2 parts and sandwiches the Saginaw pump in place. It’s VERY SOLID. and I don’t foresee any issues with motor mounts, frame, or power steering gear box…but I guess wok will find out.
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Let me know if you have any questions!
Thanks! A couple questions for ya:

Have you figured out your various water and AC hoses/lines? I'm looking at some pull-outs and there are some options that are fully dressed with all the GM hoses and lines, but if I'm going to need to toss those for various tapered replacements / adapted AC lines + fittings, doesn't make sense to get all those pieces. If you can use em, the fully dressed pull-outs might be the way to go.

What are you doing about an in-tank fuel pump replacement? Seems like aeromotive 340 stealth is recommended by many in the muscle car forums, but will it mount / integrate into the LC oval topped bracket with a plugged return line? Have you found any oval to circle adapters to allow for just a drop-in solution?
 
The rule for swaps is TAKE EVERYTHING. Hoses aren’t as important but make sure you have the AC lines on the compressor side. From there an AC shop can easily make you new lines using your existing Toyota lines and the GM lines by mating the fittings/bulkheads with new hose. I have a guy here in DFW who is coming to my house and doing it on the spot once every he engine is in.
 
The fuel pump requirements are 72 PSI at 45 GPH. There are several options there. I’m using a DeatschWerks replacement pump that rated at 53GPH
 
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Next up was an AFM oil restrictor plug which is installed below the intake into the VLOM. This keeps the hydrolic lifters, which unlock/lock during AFM from activiating and collapsing. This plus having SWAPTIME delete AFM from the tune means is a cheap way to hopefully avoid lifter failure.

Pull intake, pull big Allen plug behind oil pressure sensor, pull screen out, drop in restrictor plug, reassemble

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Next up was an AFM oil restrictor plug which is installed below the intake into the VLOM. This keeps the hydrolic lifters, which unlock/lock during AFM from activiating and collapsing. This plus having SWAPTIME delete AFM from the tune means is a cheap way to hopefully avoid lifter failure.

Pull intake, pull big Allen plug behind oil pressure sensor, pull screen out, drop in restrictor plug, reassemble

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Is the idea here with the programming + essentially a plug blocking all the lifters, you aren't going the more mechanical route of putting in 8 plugs further downstream?
 
The idea is limit flow so they aren’t able to activate. Seems to work well. Much easier install and you don’t have to remove Valley which means removing high pressure fuel system. Something I’m trying to avoid.
Is the idea here with the programming + essentially a plug blocking all the lifters, you aren't going the more mechanical route of putting in 8 plugs further downstream?
 
In an ideal world I would do a compete LS7 lifter swap, new cam and valley cover but that just isn’t in the budget right now.
 
Next up was an AFM oil restrictor plug which is installed below the intake into the VLOM. This keeps the hydrolic lifters, which unlock/lock during AFM from activiating and collapsing. This plus having SWAPTIME delete AFM from the tune means is a cheap way to hopefully avoid lifter failure.

Pull intake, pull big Allen plug behind oil pressure sensor, pull screen out, drop in restrictor plug, reassemble

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Where did you get that plug insert?
 
Following.

I was thinking really hard on doing a LT swap but I didn't want to be the first (or nearly the first) and the Torfab LT kit wasn't available when I started. It was still in development.

Instead, I went with a proven and low miles 2020 L96/6L90e and I am almost done.

How in the Heck did you get ahold of mitch at Swaptime.... i've tried phone calls, emails, FB message, IG messages multiple times. I guess smoke signals are next for me.

I agree, hard to contact. Eventually I was able to purchase a Swaptime Muscle Car Module. I think he makes limited runs and pulls it off his website when it is out of stock.

The Gen V Muscle Car Module works for getting Park/Neutral and Reverse on my 2020 6L90e. I haven't tried Tow/Haul or Tap Shift yet.
 
Earls oil cooler block off with port for factory Toyota oil pressure sender. An adapter is needed to convert the 1/8 npt to the 1/8 bspt for the factory Toyota sender. Adapter part number is EARLS 968699ERL
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