My 80 Series Restoration + LS Swap Project

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KubinB

KubinB

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 16, 2024
Threads
3
Messages
24
Location
DFW
Hey Y'all,

Long-time lurker here. I've decided to upgrade to an 80 Series, coming from my 3rd Gen 4Runner. I figured, why not document the process of swapping and restoring my new 80 Series?

I love the 3rd Gen, but it seems like it's not quite keeping up with the adventures we've been going on, so I picked up this 1996 80 Series triple locked, with a blown head gasket.

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I went for a cheap(ish) 80 Series with a bad head gasket, as I already knew I wanted to do an LS swap. It just needed to be intact, and the existing upgrades were a bonus. She's got 340,000 miles on her, no rust, and a binder full of maintenance records, it seems like she was well loved until the head gasket blew. The interior is in rough shape, but I have an upholstery guy who will fix it up. I considered some aftermarket seats, but none really appealed to me except Scheel-Mann, which is out of the question given the upfront costs I'm sinking into this project.

The plan is, first and foremost, to complete the LS swap to get it running and driving. Next, I'll have the interior redone, baseline the entire vehicle, add a Slee rear bumper, new wheels, and 35" tires. It came with most of the needed mods, including a 2.5" OME lift, so fortunately, I don't have to redo all of that as I did with my 4Runner.

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I've been researching and talking with people who have done this swap before. I'm currently gathering parts and getting the motor built. Originally, I bought a 5.3, but after more research, I decided to go with a 6.0 LQ4 and a 4L80e transmission (now I have an extra 5.3 for sale, lol). A friend who's an engine builder had an LQ4 lying around and offered to build it for me at a great price, it's good to have friends! Upon inspection, it was clear the engine wasn't in running condition, so it's off to the machine shop. It's getting a 0.040 overbore since my buddy already had pistons and rods for that size, which were free, and I like free! A 0.040 overbore isn't ideal, as it's more than needed to clean up the cylinder walls, but it should be fine for my build. The block is being thoroughly checked and serviced at the machine shop, and this guy has been building these engines for years, so I trust his judgment.

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I'm sure Ill be hitting some snags and have plenty of questions along the way. I appreciate any help and feedback from the community! The goal is to drive this to the Toyota Jamboree 2026!
 
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Information to get started with LQ4 + 4L80e Swap:

Drivetrain Positioning & Mounting
  • Ditching the Selkirk mount kit after seeing others' experiences—going with CruiserMatt's 80 Series Land Cruiser LS / Vortec Conversion Weld-in Motor Mount Kit + a modified stock transmission crossmember.
  • Plan to move the whole drivetrain about ¾" forward to clear the firewall. Easiest way: notch the transmission crossmember mounting holes (where the trans mount bolts to the crossmember) about ¾" forward.
  • Engine gets biased ~1" toward the driver side. CruiserMatt's mounts already build in that offset.
  • Engine tilt/Driveline angle: You want to get as close to 3 degrees as possible without going under. Accounting for rubber isolator settling, set the mounts at about 3.5 degrees. Use Klein Tools 935DAG for this measurement, zero it on the ground and measure from crank bolt.
  • Getting the height right for the angle will most likely make the center bolt of the cruiser matts drivers side mount unusable, I am attempting to find a bolt that’ll fit, don’t sacrifice fitment for this bolt.
  • Keep engine as level as possible on the X axis.
Driveshafts
  • Rebuild both driveshafts to handle the extra torque.
  • Shorten the front shaft by ~¾".
  • Lengthen the rear shaft by ~¾" (or whatever the final measurement ends up being after the drivetrain shift). Might get away without touching the rear—will measure and see.
Transmission (4L80E)
  • Went with a 4WD 4L80E mainly for the Marks adapter compatibility.
  • These usually don't have the rear VSS sensor or reluctor ring (2WD versions are more likely to have them, but you'd have to shorten the output shaft for the adapter). You will want to add this reluctor ring and sensor to give the GM ECU both needed speed sensors. retain the Toyota T Case speed sensor for the speedometer.
  • Handling neutral safety/reverse lights/gear indicator with a Dakota Digital GSS-3000 in place of the stock neutral safety switch.
Engine & Flexplate (LQ4 2004 – Short Crank)
  • Requires crank spacer: GM P/N 12563532.
  • Requires extended flexplate bolts: GM P/N 19257940 (qty 6) or ARP 244-2902.
  • Spacer installs between crankshaft and flexplate.
  • Oil pan: Ordered from Marks; later discovered compatible alternative GM Performance Parts 19212593 Oil Pan.
Marks Adapter Kit Notes
  • General advice is to skip the cap-head bolts that come with some Marks kits and use OEM GM bolts instead—but for the 4L80E version, there's an adapter plate that bolts to the trans first, and it has recessed holes that basically force you to use the supplied grade 12.9 cap-head bolts due to thread depth and lip. The bigger adapter also has a lip where the bolts mount. They should be fine (some warnings seem more for the 4L60 kits). I used the cap head bolts.
  • Thread reinforcement (recommended for high torque):
    • Time-Sert inserts for Toyota transfer case side: M12 × 1.25 × 15mm (P/N 1212) and M12 × 1.25 × 24mm (P/N 12125).
    • For 4L80E adapter plate: M10 × 1.5 × 14mm (P/N 1015).
    • Note: The inserts in the steel plate may not be needed, the suggestions seems to originate from 4L60E kit; still worthwhile for added robustness on 4L80E if you want, I did.
Headers
Heat Management
Wiring & ECU
  • Decided to go with a BP Automotive harness as the one that came with my motor was trash. It is suggested to just use the OEM ECU and harness to save some cash and get a better-quality harness. ECU Programming and Harness modification can be found here: Don't forget to add 4wd sense wire to custom harness!
  • Sent the ECU to LT1Swap for base programming, requested that he change the output of the tach signal to match the Toyota's expected signal for the gauge:
    • 12V Square Wave
    • Set Tach Output to Crank Floor.
    • Set Resolution High to 4.
    • Set Resolution Low to 4.
    • Objective: 3 Pulses Per Revolution for 6-cyl Toyota Tach.
  • Requested that pins are active for Relay 1 & 2 for Electric fans
  • Add 4wd sensing
Intake & Throttle Body
  • Upgraded to TBSS intake manifold.
  • Throttle body: 90mm Holley Sniper DBC.
  • You can use stock intake manifold and Throttle body, You will want a 1999-2000 intake manifold if you want DBC. This manifold also comes with a return type fuel rail, so you can use an early model 80 series fuel filter and retain stock lines.
Fuel System
Shifter & Linkage
  • Keeping the original Toyota shifter.
  • Using TCI Shifter Cable (P/N 840500).
  • Modifications:
    • Adjust shift arm to ~3.75" eye-to-eye (center of base hole to cable hole).
    • Shorten arm by ~½".
    • Trans side: Use OE 4L80E cable mount if it has one, or get GM 15013290.
    • Shifter side: Weld on custom bracket to hold cable.
  • Rod ends & hardware:
    • X2 McMaster-Carr 59915K41 (Stainless Steel 10-32 Right Hand Female Threaded Rod End).
    • X2 McMaster-Carr 92390A107 (Stainless Steel 3/16" Diameter × 15/16" Usable Length Clevis Pins).
    • Secure with basic stainless M1.6 or 1/16" cotter pins.
Power Steering
  • You will need to decide if you want to Hydroboost or not. If hydroboosting your stock PS pump should have the return fitting for it. If not, source a non hydroboost PS pump, or cap the return line off.
  • A Smaller pulley is sometimes suggested, but is not required if using steering box brace kit (moves box ~¼"). If you need the smaller pulley:
    • Smaller pulley: Dorman 300-202 (metal preferred).
  • Always: Before final install, bend hard return line on PS pump toward pump and upward to clear steering box.
Steering Box Brace
Cooling System
  • Preference: Electric fan for easier fitment.
  • Recommended electric fan(compatible with GM ECU and should fit Toyota radiator): Dorman 620-634.
  • Mechanical alternative: Summit Racing Adjustable Fan Shroud Kit.
  • Using Marks hose kit to retain OEM Toyota radiator.
Parts Ordered from CruiserMatt
 
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Clean up the OEM engine harness, using the guidance at LT1swap.com . I did it on my 40 and had no difficulties. You can send your computer to him and he will remove VATS and load a basic tune to get you going.
 
1MAC said:
Clean up the OEM engine harness, using the guidance at LT1swap.com . I did it on my 40 and had no difficulties. You can send your computer to him and he will remove VATS and load a basic tune to get you going.
Click to expand...
Thank you for this!
 
White Stripe said:
I would consider going with a aftermarket shifter all together as well. Some look really nice. I would get the steering box brace kit rather than the spacer. Its a very common place for the frames to Crack. Mine had a crack and it still had stock tires.
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So I really want to keep it as stock as possible and I already got the shifter. I'm sure I can make it work. looking at the steering box brace kits, I like the Rampt one... Rampt Brace Kit but unfortunately it looks like they don't ship to the US. I tried a few other places that have this kit and they also don't ship to the US. Do you know of any avenue to get this kit? Otherwise, what is the best option for us in the States? I saw the delta one, doesn't seem as complete...
 
KubinB said:
So I really want to keep it as stock as possible and I already got the shifter. I'm sure I can make it work. looking at the steering box brace kits, I like the Rampt one... Rampt Brace Kit but unfortunately it looks like they don't ship to the US. I tried a few other places that have this kit and they also don't ship to the US. Do you know of any avenue to get this kit? Otherwise, what is the best option for us in the States? I saw the delta one, doesn't seem as complete...
Click to expand...
You could see if you could get superior engineering to send you the kit they sell. Delta should work for the average Joe use in my opinion but others probably know better.
 
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Today was a great day. I picked up my freshly built 6.0 LQ4 and registered the V80. I'm currently performing maintenance on all my other cars before pulling out the 1FZ and starting the project, which will occupy the bay with the lift in my home shop. I suspect it will be there for a while. In the meantime, I'm struggling to find a transmission shop willing to add the reluctor ring and VSS to my 4L80. If anyone knows of a shop in the DFW area that will take on the work, please let me know!

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Welp the fun has begun! The 1FZ is just about ready to come out. I'm going to spend a good amount of time cleaning up the engine bay once it's out, as it's pretty grimy from years of 1FZ leaks. The transmission is at the shop getting the reluctor wheel installed. Once it's done, I'll mate it to the LQ4 and dress it up in preparation for fitting. I'll try to record accurate measurements to help the next guy attempting this.
 
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Nice garage

Seeing the LS in the truck with the intake ports open to the world above made me cringe a bit. My luck would have highway detritus get a hole in one down a port with an open valve.

Glws (good luck with swap)

PS, I need a friend like your engine builder
 
Augustiron said:
Nice garage

Seeing the LS in the truck with the intake ports open to the world above made me cringe a bit. My luck would have highway detritus get a hole in one down a port with an open valve.

Glws (good luck with swap)

PS, I need a friend like your engine builder
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You know, I didn't even think about that until you mentioned it. That makes me uneasy as well. I guess I can inspect with a bore scope and clean it if needed, but it seems like my guy who built it and loaded it in my truck wasn't concerned... Does come with warranty... Oversight on my end for sure...

Update: I inspected with my bore scope, all the valves but 2 were closed. I sprayed the closed ones out with compressed air just in case. For the open valves, I went in through the spark plug holes with the bore scope and was able to see everything, it doesn't look like anything got in. I think I may have gotten lucky, Thanks for looking out.
 
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Following along. This may be in my near future. Some great information so far. Thanks for the details.
 
  1. The 91-92 shifter has a completely different wiring setup. I had bought one myself thinking the same thing and ended up ditching it all together. The 96 shifter can be used without any modifications to the shift gate. Your third gear will sit in between D and 2 which isn't that big of a deal. To match the 4l80e shift pattern, you'll want to modify the shift arm to have ~3.75" eye to eye and everything will line up. I used a TCI cable with rod ends, takes a little bit of fusing with but as long as you have the cable completely collapsed in Park, it will have the full range of motion from P > L.
  2. For the driveshafts, you'll are going to want to rebuild them due to the increased HP and torque. With that in mind, I moved my engine forward 3/4" to clear the firewall which required changing the lengths but if you're going to have them rebuilt it isn't that much more to change the lengths.
  3. I used the Delta reinforcement kit and Matt's motor mounts. I did not require a new pulley on the power steering pump, it has enough clearance with the PS box being moved outwards 1/4". The only thing to watch out for depending on where you place the motor is the hard return line on the pump. You'll want to push the line in towards the pump and up. I made the mistake of not doing that before placing the motor, so it was a PITA to move the hard line up to get enough clearance with the power steering box.
  4. In regards to Mark's adapter, it'll be wise to throw in some thread inserts. His sand cast aluminum is pretty soft and won't handle the torque specs that Toyota calls out for with the OEM bolts.
 
LT said:
  1. The 91-92 shifter has a completely different wiring setup. I had bought one myself thinking the same thing and ended up ditching it all together. The 96 shifter can be used without any modifications to the shift gate. Your third gear will sit in between D and 2 which isn't that big of a deal. To match the 4l80e shift pattern, you'll want to modify the shift arm to have ~3.75" eye to eye and everything will line up. I used a TCI cable with rod ends, takes a little bit of fusing with but as long as you have the cable completely collapsed in Park, it will have the full range of motion from P > L.
  2. For the driveshafts, you'll are going to want to rebuild them due to the increased HP and torque. With that in mind, I moved my engine forward 3/4" to clear the firewall which required changing the lengths but if you're going to have them rebuilt it isn't that much more to change the lengths.
  3. I used the Delta reinforcement kit and Matt's motor mounts. I did not require a new pulley on the power steering pump, it has enough clearance with the PS box being moved outwards 1/4". The only thing to watch out for depending on where you place the motor is the hard return line on the pump. You'll want to push the line in towards the pump and up. I made the mistake of not doing that before placing the motor, so it was a PITA to move the hard line up to get enough clearance with the power steering box.
  4. In regards to Mark's adapter, it'll be wise to throw in some thread inserts. His sand cast aluminum is pretty soft and won't handle the torque specs that Toyota calls out for with the OEM bolts.
Click to expand...
I really appreciate this. Thank you!
 
Update:
Have been working on the project in the background ordering parts waiting for stuff to come in, the Rampt kit had many issues with customs getting here and took a long time but its here.
In the mean time, I've been mainly prepping for the welding of the brace kit and fitting the new drivetrain.

Got the little brother to pull big brother out to pressure wash the engine bay and remove all the gunk
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Forgot about the fluid in the power steering lines... oops lol. I use this stuff called "Chomp Pull it out" and it works wonders at getting oil out of the driveway.
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Much cleaner now!
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Did the rear heater delete
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This gum definitely looks like its from the 90s haha
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Delta delete plug is nice, probably didn't need to go all out on that...
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Removed the steering box, got everything out of the way to start welding. No more rear heater lines! Those were actually not very fun to remove. Got nasty fish smelling coolant everywhere including all over me...
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Project is moving along I basically have everything now to get the new drivetrain in and hopefully started. I'm starting to wonder what to do with all the parts that I've removed and will not be using, what does everyone do with these parts? Any 80 series parts hoarders? Id love to get the 1FZ and trans out of my way
:)
 
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