Build Project "Sparkles"-1997 LX450 Gen V 6.2 Swap

[Xylonmedia]

Curious about this as well. Im thinking about picking up an 80 to do an LT swap with 37's. The two things I dislike most about my 100 are the power and gas mileage. If I could get the same or better MPG on larger tires with more power it would be a dream come true.

I’m not OP and I’m sure he’ll have real world data. That said, My LT swap is just a pile of parts in my garage… and I’m in it more than $15k… I could buy a lot of fuel for what I’ve thrown at this project.

I wouldn’t make MPG improvement your guiding star. Even in an Escalade 4x4 with a stock tune and displacement on demand; the L86 was rated for 14 city and 23 highway. Add weight, 4.11’s, full time 4x4 plus the aerodynamics of a cobblestone and big tires, it can’t be great.

 

[ScotyDosentKnow]

I’m not OP and I’m sure he’ll have real world data. That said, My LT swap is just a pile of parts in my garage… and I’m in it more than $15k… I could buy a lot of fuel for what I’ve thrown at this project.

I wouldn’t make MPG improvement your guiding star. Even in an Escalade 4x4 with a stock tune and displacement on demand; the L86 was rated for 14 city and 23 highway. Add weight, 4.11’s, full time 4x4 plus the aerodynamics of a cobblestone and big tires, it can’t be great.

MPG is definitely not the #1 thing I'm after, I own 3 other vehicles that get much better. I just didnt want to get rid of the 100 for an LT swapped 80 that gets 6mpg or some thing ridiculous. Also an Escalade has a curb weight that is roughly 1,000lbs more than an 80 Series. I would be happy if I could get mid teens on 37's. We do a lot of big trips and I'll take any range I can get.

 

[mattnandie]

Curious about this as well. Im thinking about picking up an 80 to do an LT swap with 37's. The two things I dislike most about my 100 are the power and gas mileage. If I could get the same or better MPG on larger tires with more power it would be a dream come true.

Hey guys sorry for the late reply. My average mpg is about 15. I've seen 20 on the highway cruising at 65-70. My rig is heavy and usually loaded down with gear as it's only a toy and not a daily.

 

[zmducote]

Hey guys sorry for the late reply. My average mpg is about 15. I've seen 20 on the highway cruising at 65-70. My rig is heavy and usually loaded down with gear as it's only a toy and not a daily.

This makes me wonder what a stock set up would get. I love my 80 and would love another one for a daily if I can get way better MPGs.

 

[Brav]

Hey guys sorry for the late reply. My average mpg is about 15. I've seen 20 on the highway cruising at 65-70. My rig is heavy and usually loaded down with gear as it's only a toy and not a daily.

That seems pretty reasonable for that setup. Bet it never barks going up a steep grade.

 

[mattnandie]

That seems pretty reasonable for that setup. Bet it never barks going up a steep grade.

It would drive straight up a wall if id let it lol

 

[jomichael]

Man, you really have me wanting to swap my 91! It's a bit intimidating though. Where are you in DFW? I'm in Allen.

 

[mattnandie]

Man, you really have me wanting to swap my 91! It's a bit intimidating though. Where are you in DFW? I'm in Allen.

I’m in Lewisville

 

[mattnandie]

I’m in Lewisville

If you ever wanna check it out let me know!

 

[mattnandie]

Dakota Digital SGI-100BT install for Tach and Speedo function.

Finally got around to installing the DD box to get my factory Tach and Speedo working.

All guage side output wires were sourced from the back of the guage cluster (Combination Meter in the EWD):

Tach: solid black wire on blue connector. This goes to Tach output HI VLT (extended with red wire in my pic)

Speedo: Red wire with Orange tracer larger white connector on right ride. This goes to Speed Out 2 (extended with black wire in my pic)

MCM tach input: White wire labeled “tach” from Muscle Car Module. This goes to Tach Input.

MCM Speed input: lighter Green wire Labled “speedo” from Muscle Car Module. This goes to Speed input.

Power and Ground to your liking on a key on 12v source. This can be a jumper from the fuse box if you’re lazy.

Now download the app. “Dakota Digital Accessory” this allows you to tuck the box where ever. And do all adjustments from your phone. Super handy. Screenshots of my setting below. I’m on factory gears and 37s so your speedo settings my differ. Just adjust up or down to bring the guages within spec. Super easy.

 

[mattnandie]

 

[NeverFinis]

Dakota Digital SGI-100BT install for Tach and Speedo function.

Finally got around to installing the DD box to get my factory Tach and Speedo working.

All guage side output wires were sourced from the back of the guage cluster (Combination Meter in the EWD):

Tach: solid black wire on blue connector. This goes to Tach output HI VLT (extended with red wire in my pic)

Speedo: Red wire with Orange tracer larger white connector on right ride. This goes to Speed Out 2 (extended with black wire in my pic)

MCM tach input: White wire labeled “tach” from Muscle Car Module. This goes to Tach Input.

MCM Speed input: lighter Green wire Labled “speedo” from Muscle Car Module. This goes to Speed input.

Good that you got it working for you, but IMHO, this is not the way to go.

This is for others who are looking at tackling this and reading this thread.

No need to jump wires on the cluster, which I would advise against.

TLDR
Use Lutzs Speedometer Calibrator and run the MCM tach wire to pin 8 of the E7 connector. Look up my posts on how to adjust the Toyota tach for 4 pulses/rev rather than 3 pulses/rev. I mean, Toyota built in adjustability into their tach....makes sense to use it.

The Tachometer and Speedometer inputs can be found on a formerly used ECM connector: E7. E7 is easily accessible by the glove box.

Pin 8: Speedometer
Pin 10: Tachometer

E7

Speed signal can be first found on the IHI connector, pin 1. I am showing it, but I recommend not using it. There is a much simpler approach. See below.

Tachometer
Run MCM tach output to the wire formally connected to pin 10 of the E7 connector.

Toyota's tach can be easily adjusted to a V8 signal, which I have wrote about elsewhere, and the MCM makes it easier since it is a 12V signal. No external device needed, besides the MCM, and one less thing to go wrong.

Speedometer
Dakota Digital SGI-100BT isn't expensive as something is needed to adjust the speedometer for larger tires.

I prefer Lutz's Speedometer Calibrator because they are part of our community and a ih8mud vendor. No wire splicing needed.

Lutz's device sits near the t-case, making it simple to install and setup. No need to use the wire at pin 8 on E7, or jump wires in the cluster, because it connects directly to the speed sensor at the t-case as a "man in the middle." It is brilliant. It is plug and play as it gets with a couple of button pushes for setup....

 

[mattnandie]

Good that you got it working for you, but IMHO, this is not the way to go.

This is for others who are looking at tackling this and reading this thread.

No need to jump wires on the cluster, which I would advise against.

TLDR
Use Lutzs Speedometer Calibrator and run the MCM tach wire to pin 8 of the E7 connector. Look up my posts on how to adjust the Toyota tach for 4 pulses/rev rather than 3 pulses/rev. I mean, Toyota built in adjustability into their tach....makes sense to use it.

The Tachometer and Speedometer inputs can be found on a formerly used ECM connector: E7. E7 is easily accessible by the glove box.

Pin 8: Speedometer
Pin 10: Tachometer

E7
View attachment 4015101

Speed signal can be first found on the IHI connector, pin 1. I am showing it, but I recommend not using it. There is a much simpler approach. See below.

Tachometer
Run MCM tach output to the wire formally connected to pin 10 of the E7 connector.

Toyota's tach can be easily adjusted to a V8 signal, which I have wrote about elsewhere, and the MCM makes it easier since it is a 12V signal. No external device needed, besides the MCM, and one less thing to go wrong.

Speedometer
Dakota Digital SGI-100BT isn't expensive as something is needed to adjust the speedometer for larger tires.

I prefer Lutz's Speedometer Calibrator because they are part of our community and a ih8mud vendor. No wire splicing needed.

Lutz's device sits near the t-case, making it simple to install and setup. No need to use the wire at pin 8 on E7, or jump wires in the cluster, because it connects directly to the speed sensor at the t-case as a "man in the middle." It is brilliant. It is plug and play as it gets with a couple of button pushes for setup....

Nice. From what I read that Lutz one isn’t as accurate. The SGI is infinitely adustible and you can do so on the fly. The E7 info is awesome but in the LX it isn’t as easy to get to for some reason and has no extra play to work with (at least in mine it didn’t)

 

[NeverFinis]

Nice. From what I read that Lutz one isn’t as accurate. The SGI is infinitely adustible and you can do so on the fly. The E7 info is awesome but in the LX it isn’t as easy to get to for some reason and has no extra play to work with (at least in mine it didn’t)

I didn't have an issue getting to E7 on my LX450 after I pulled the ECM. You only need to pull the speaker and the glove box. They have to be pulled to get to other wiring harness connectors needed for swapping. I think simpler than pulling the cluster, but the cluster does need to be pulled to adjust the tach.

Lutz adjustment is 0.5%, which means it can never be more than 0.25% away from true speed. IMHO, one will never be able to see that error amongst all other errors in the system: Tire Air Pressure (changes due to weather or over time): Tire Wear, etc. I mean, Toyota's speedometer is an analog gauge with 5 mph increments...

Edited to add that ±0.25% maximum error = ±0.15 mph at 60mph.

Since you are using MCM Speed Output, did you also wire in t-case high/low? Otherwise speed will be incorrect in 4-Low. I haven't wired in 4-Low myself, but I should to change transmission shifting in 4-low.

 

[mattnandie]

I didn't have an issue getting to E7 on my LX450 after I pulled the ECM. You only need to pull the speaker and the glove box. They have to be pulled to get to other wiring harness connectors needed for swapping. I think simpler than pulling the cluster, but the cluster does need to be pulled to adjust the tach.

View attachment 4015135

Lutz adjustment is 0.5%, which means it can never be more than 0.25% away from true speed. IMHO, one will never be able to see that error amongst all other errors in the system: Tire Air Pressure (changes due to weather or over time): Tire Wear, etc. I mean, Toyota's speedometer is an analog gauge with 5 mph increments...

Edited to add that ±0.25% maximum error = ±0.15 mph at 60mph.

Since you are using MCM Speed Output, did you also wire in t-case high/low? Otherwise speed will be incorrect in 4-Low. I haven't wired in 4-Low myself, but I should to change transmission shifting in 4-low.

No I didn’t but I’m not worried about that at all.

 

[mattnandie]

Good that you got it working for you, but IMHO, this is not the way to go.

This is for others who are looking at tackling this and reading this thread.

No need to jump wires on the cluster, which I would advise against.

TLDR
Use Lutzs Speedometer Calibrator and run the MCM tach wire to pin 8 of the E7 connector. Look up my posts on how to adjust the Toyota tach for 4 pulses/rev rather than 3 pulses/rev. I mean, Toyota built in adjustability into their tach....makes sense to use it.

The Tachometer and Speedometer inputs can be found on a formerly used ECM connector: E7. E7 is easily accessible by the glove box.

Pin 8: Speedometer
Pin 10: Tachometer

E7
View attachment 4015101

Speed signal can be first found on the IHI connector, pin 1. I am showing it, but I recommend not using it. There is a much simpler approach. See below.

Tachometer
Run MCM tach output to the wire formally connected to pin 10 of the E7 connector.

Toyota's tach can be easily adjusted to a V8 signal, which I have wrote about elsewhere, and the MCM makes it easier since it is a 12V signal. No external device needed, besides the MCM, and one less thing to go wrong.

Speedometer
Dakota Digital SGI-100BT isn't expensive as something is needed to adjust the speedometer for larger tires.

I prefer Lutz's Speedometer Calibrator because they are part of our community and a ih8mud vendor. No wire splicing needed.

Lutz's device sits near the t-case, making it simple to install and setup. No need to use the wire at pin 8 on E7, or jump wires in the cluster, because it connects directly to the speed sensor at the t-case as a "man in the middle." It is brilliant. It is plug and play as it gets with a couple of button pushes for setup....

More than on way to do what very few have done I guess.. And sorry but Ive ordered parts twice now from "Those who are part of the community" and got royally BURNED. The only one whose done me right was solve function.

 

[NeverFinis]

More than on way to do what very few have done I guess.. And sorry but Ive ordered parts twice now from "Those who are part of the community" and got royally BURNED. The only one whose done me right was solve function.

I can see where you are coming from. I came back into this community after a long hiatus only to find a vocal minority in this community defending a company/person who was obviously defrauding customers.

@Lutz Auto does make good products, which I use. They have quickly shipped everything I have ordered. I have yet to see a single complaint in the "Bad Sellers - Buyers Beware." They are no different than Swap Time, and Solve Function.

I do have a policy if something isn't shipped within 30 days, required by US Federal Law for most things, do a charge back. In my many years of buying stuff online, this only happed once and it was Joey Romero @ Wits End. I did a charge back on day 31. I didn't play the game "You just got to wait, its Joey" Federal Law requires companies refund after 30 days, unless the customer agrees to the delay. No agreement, or no response from customer, then a refund is mandatory.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I can see where you are coming from. I came back into this community after a long hiatus only to find a vocal minority in this community defending a company/person who was obviously defrauding customers.

@Lutz Auto does make good products, which I use. They have quickly shipped everything I have ordered. I have yet to see a single complaint in the "Bad Sellers - Buyers Beware." They are no different than Swap Time, and Solve Function.

I do have a policy if something isn't shipped within 30 days, required by US Federal Law for most things, do a charge back. In my many years of buying stuff online, this only happed once and it was Joey Romero @ Wits End. I did a charge back on day 31. I didn't play the game "You just got to wait, its Joey" Federal Law requires companies refund after 30 days, unless the customer agrees to the delay. No agreement, or no response from customer, then a refund is mandatory.

This community had such a hard on for Joey. I called him out years ago on some of his bs mainly customer support of his products witch basically none were his i got reprimanded for just speaking the truth. If there's an issue report it in the bad buyer seller section.

 

[torfab]

First prototype of V 2.0 of the adapter has finally landed and we are going to test the first article on the new Duramax 3.0 10 speed conversion. This adapter version eliminates the need for the 95-97 trans adapter piece. After testing we will pull the trigger on changes/updates and get these ordered up.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

First prototype of V 2.0 of the adapter has finally landed and we are going to test the first article on the new Duramax 3.0 10 speed conversion. This adapter version eliminates the need for the 95-97 trans adapter piece. After testing we will pull the trigger on changes/updates and get these ordered up.

View attachment 4028314

I would plugs this in the thread with the duramax swapped 80 also @torfab