Builds OL'BETSY ZX: 1991 HZJ77

[FJBen]

Some new bits today! I'll soon have more mods on the bench than on the truck!

Factory snorkel...
View attachment 3239070

I need to to replace my snorkel. I’ve got a few cracks…

 

[Rewoon]

Пришло время, возможно, немного приукрасить старую девочку, особенно после того, как она испугалась в прошлом месяце, когда думала, что ее заменяют. Назовем это косметикой?

Предыстория: мне всегда нравились линии тела 70-й серии с узким носом, но мне всегда казалось, что два тона меняют цвет слишком низко на линии пояса, до такой степени, что штаны были слишком низко на бедрах? Однотонные юниты не страдают от этого эммм... Модная оплошность.

Добавьте к этому, что я люблю (как и все) полоску в стиле ретро. Так почему бы не сделать полоску в стиле ретро шириной 4 дюйма, которая зрительно приподнимет линию талии? Вот что я заказал...
View attachment 3226165

(Да, это армейская полоса, но дополнительная длина может позволить мне обернуть и заднюю дверь?)

View attachment 3226176

I would like to see the finishing work.

 

[JDM Journeys]

Another bunch of things crossed off the list.

Replaced the copper washer on the inj pump head access bolt.
Pulled and replaced the fuel cut solenoid, the oring under it, and the little teeny strainer under that.

Pulled the valve cover and replaced the (completely flat and hard) gasket. Haven't put it back on yet...

Still tracking a smoky start. More things afoot...

 

[JDM Journeys]

Finally back at it today:

Installed new valve cover gasket.
Retimed the IP to 1.09... such a pain in the ass. Way easier with a buddy turning the motor over, instead of going back and forth.
Ran more new fuel lines and clamps... This time I got that pesky one from the filter down the firewall. I was happy to be able to transfer the insulation over to new line too. Also did the short one at the front of the pump.

Because I needed access to the IP, I pulled the oil filter. And once I was there, did an oil change too. Also tested and reinstalled all six glow plugs.

If my smoky start isn't solved after the new lines, I may look back at the fuel tank, or certainly give the steel lines underneath a good hard look.

 

[ATL Cruiser]

Nice one!

If you get desperate to find the leak, you could drain the lines and smoke test the system. We use a smoke machine, but you could use a cigar redneck-style.

 

[Rigster]

Finally back at it today:

Installed new valve cover gasket.
Retimed the IP to 1.09... such a pain in the ass. Way easier with a buddy turning the motor over, instead of going back and forth.
Ran more new fuel lines and clamps... This time I got that pesky one from the filter down the firewall. I was happy to be able to transfer the insulation over to new line too. Also did the short one at the front of the pump.

Because I needed access to the IP, I pulled the oil filter. And once I was there, did an oil change too. Also tested and reinstalled all six glow plugs.

If my smoky start isn't solved after the new lines, I may look back at the fuel tank, or certainly give the steel lines underneath a good hard look.

Gosh these pesky air leaks can be a test to one's patience, that is for sure.

I pulled all my lines out as I had new ones anyways, but you can test them in situ with a vacuum tester with Guage. Just plug one end, create the vacuum and see if there is any loss. It goes surprisingly quick, it's just darn messy!

You've a great logical troubleshooting mind Phil, so I know with a little patience you'll have this licked in no time. I hope what you have already done has nailed it, but... just in case!

 

[JDM Journeys]

Well that was a lot of work, for so few old bits on the bench afterwards...

A start up afterwards revealed some white smoke, but since I had many lines off, I'm assuming there was some air to expel.

I did however, do some other testing, prior to starting it up. Just to be thorough, I retested the voltage at the buzzbar, using a better meter, and situating it on the windshield with the hood up, I was able to watch it from the driver's seat. The primary glow showed 21.4 volts, and then it dropped to 14 or so after the relay clicked for afterglow. That seems a bit low? Factory manual says to expect 24 volts in the first stage. I had 24.8v at the no.1 relay. So there's a little drop... maybe its normal when cycling the glows? Not sure, but my subsequent drive appears to show improvements. Quieter, better hill climbing, less pinging (yes, I adjusted timing at the same time, so as usual, my tests are flawed, inconclusive, and thus useless). But this is the best time it ran since I installed the HAC chimney, so I'm making progress. Right?

 

[ATL Cruiser]

No problem!
But first off, I couldn't divorce the heater box from under the dash without first pulling the AC box, which was of course my goal. Not saying it can't be done, but the interface between the two boxes sees the a/c box union "in front of" the heater box, when looking at it from inside the truck. this will make more sense when its in front of you. There is probably a way to flex the two away from each other to allow either one to be pulled independently? I'd strongly recommend avoiding pulling out the A/C box unless you are at gunpoint, or you really really want to have a miserable day. LOL

Good point on the blower motor box and the evaporator box. I initially agreed with you thinking it was impossible to remove them separately. The A/C evaporator box sits right on top of the blower motor box meaning the evaporator has to come out first and then the blower motor. That is pretty awful, because removing the evaporator means draining and then recharging the freon. Yuck.

BUT, I was wrong. It is possible to remove ONLY the blower motor box. Which is nice, because you then you don't need to remove the evaporator, which also means you don't need to recharge the A/C system. Big win.

The way to remove JUST the blower box is to remove all the M10 head bolts securing both boxes to the firewall. Additionally, remove the screws that connect the boxes together at their plastic tabs. Just remove anything with an M10 head on it. At this point, both boxes will be loose and kind of floppy. Then, pull both boxes toward you to drop them off their mounting studs.

Go under the hood and shove the evaporator lines as far into the cab as you can. They will probably go about 1" through the firewall. They will still be connected to the A/C system.

At this point, you can drop the heater box straight down and twist it to pull it out. Going back in is just about as hard. But it is still easier than draining and recharging the full A/C system.

The old drop and twist:

New blower box / new motor / new resistor. The old lift and twist:

 

[JDM Journeys]

Getting to my wits end here. The day before yesterday I took her on the daily drive, and it ran poorly. White smoke for quite a while, along with hesitation until it fully warmed up. Even then it felt low on power... like a blocked fuel filter perhaps.

Tonight I changed the ff. Still white smoke. Rough idle, and smoky revs, along with a stumble.
Lots of smoke on start. Lots.

Temp ambient around 0°c.

All rubber lines have now been done from firewall forward. Tried bleeding injectors too but no change. Newish primer assembly. Timing at 1.09. Newish injectors. New filter screen under new f/c solenoid. New copper washers where I could put them on IP.

Need to trace lines back to fuel tank tomorrow I guess?

What am I missing? White smoke indicates low compression. 260k on the engine. Glow circuit tests as fully functional.

 

[Rigster]

Hey Phil,

I can commiserate with your intense feelings of frustration and despair. I got to this point more than once, and would take a break and start fresh with the ABC's again.

I am not sure if you have tried this, but I put a clear hose between the filter housing back towards the first hard line on the frame and just used the primer pump on the filter housing and sure enough, I was seeing copious amounts of air coming in with the fuel from the tank side.

This is what clinched it for me, and I decided to tear out everything from the filter housing to and including the tank. I know you were following my build thread so you will know this was when I finally found my leak testing each and every hard line including the ones that go into the tank.

Too bad we don't live closer or we could help each other out with this stuff, then it becomes fun even! I don't think it is low compression, I had a lot of white smoke when I had a lot of air getting into the system and it would start to get sluggish and die on me. If you stop and prime the filter until it firms up, does that make a difference for a while - IE: does it run better for a bit?

 

[coldtaco]

Don’t remember if you did anything with the fuel pump.

 

[JDM Journeys]

I wish you were closer too, Darren buddy.

The last thing I did with the fuel pump was set it back to factory timing at 1.09. The truck just cannot seem to run at this setting. It smokes even after it warms up and sputters unless it's fully at operating temperature. It seems I'm down on compression for some reason and I'm wondering if maybe it's time for a pump rebuild? I'm going to check the engine compression numbers first and go from there I guess?

I tried a clear hose after the fuel filter, and saw no signs of bubbles.

 

[Rigster]

I wish you were closer too, Darren buddy.

The last thing I did with the fuel pump was set it back to factory timing at 1.09. The truck just cannot seem to run at this setting. It smokes even after it warms up and sputters unless it's fully at operating temperature. It seems I'm down on compression for some reason and I'm wondering if maybe it's time for a pump rebuild? I'm going to check the engine compression numbers first and go from there I guess?

I tried a clear hose after the fuel filter, and saw no signs of bubbles.

Hmmm... yeah, that is a real brain stumper for sure... lack of power and smoke but no air in the fuel is definitely a different problem. I am also not sure if you have the tools for checking for pump volume and pressures (I do not either, YET). That would likely require a diesel injection shop, but they may be able to at least test the pump for you too rule that out. These rotary fuel pumps are not nearly the same as the 3b/2h/12ht pumps. The rotary style is a cheaper pump. They often go and need rebuilding before 300,000kms

Also, not saying it will, but if the pump is needing a rebuild, there are a few shops in AU that will ship a rebuilt pump on exchange for not too bad a price (around $1500) in the event you need one.

I do have a diesel compression tester here as well, but I seriously doubt your engine has low compression with only less than 300,000kms on it.

 

[AirheadNut]

If it does end up being an issue with the pump there are several good diesel injection shops in Canada and the US that can rebuild it without a problem. The 1HZ and 1HD-T pumps are very similar to the Cummins 6BT 12V pump and would be familiar territory to anyone used to working on those.

 

[JDM Journeys]

I have the bits coming to check my engine compression. I'm expecting it to be good, but it'll give me enough confidence to pull the pump and send it... Somewhere.

Assuming engine numbers are good... would you guys agree that if it can't run well on 1.09 timing, and is not ingesting air, then it is likely a worn out pump? Injectors have maybe 10k on them?

Then it is just a matter of who/where I send it? I have maybe $1500 CAD to spend...

 

[Rigster]

Man it has been over 20 years since i have lived in Calgary, so i am out of the picture when it comes to decent fuel injection shops. Maybe reach out to dan @ 4wheel auto in Edmonton and see if he knows of a good shop to test and/or rebuild the pump?
I suspect you are correct, no air in fuel, good compression, and no air intake obstruction, then the only other thing would be fuel supply.

 

[AirheadNut]

I’ve seen these folks recommended here on Mud: HOME | Okanagan Diesel LTD. - https://www.okanagandiesel.com/

Pretty sure there is a reputable shop in the Vancouver area also. DFIS in Portland, OR is a great shop and is used to dealing with Toyota diesel systems, they rebuilt my brother’s HDJ81 IP and injectors: Coming Soon – Diesel Fuel Injection Services - https://dfispdx.com/

 

[Rigster]

I’ve seen these folks recommended here on Mud: HOME | Okanagan Diesel LTD. - https://www.okanagandiesel.com/

Pretty sure there is a reputable shop in the Vancouver area also. DFIS in Portland, OR is a great shop and is used to dealing with Toyota diesel systems, they rebuilt my brother’s HDJ81 IP and injectors: Coming Soon – Diesel Fuel Injection Services - https://dfispdx.com/

Okanagan Diesel is a great family owned shop and they treated me well with the one vehicle I took there. The problem is that they are possibly closing shop or selling the business, so not sure where they are at with that.
Sending something to a reputable shop is better than saving a couple hundred bucks and getting something done half right, so that may be the other option, though I would have to think in a city the size of Calgary there has to be at least one good diesel pump rebuilder!

 

[JDM Journeys]

This morning is -27 and lots of snow and I had to drive into the downtown core. So... Plugged in overnight and timing advanced by ear till it runs okay got me here unscathed unless you count the racket. Sounded like a big rig in the parking garage lol. Compression test soon and then decision time...

 

[Rigster]

Gleeeeep!! -27! That's enough to make an egyptian mummy want to shout! I will not complain of the -12 I woke up to then.

Keep us posted on the progress for sure. Also, let me know if you want me to reach out to Okanagan Diesel and see what the current situation is and where they are at with experience with Toyota rotary pump rebuilds. Stay WARM!