- Thread starter
- #41
They were on the bottom from the factory stacked like that.
Lift block or drop block.
Same/same
Builds 1998 FZJ70 Build (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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Lift block or drop block.
Same/same
I understand what you are saying, but, now the axle is 1" further from the leaf spring creating a greater leverage on the leaf spring that could cause axle wrap. It is physics. It would be the same in a spring over axle and adding a lift block. You have now added a "block" between the axle and the leaf spring. In the stock location the "block" is simply a spacer. I would rather see shorter u-bolts and increase ground clearance. IMO it is a poor design to make up the space with "blocks" rather than shorter u-bolts. Also the squared off edges create a stress point for the spring and a good point to crack when flexed too much. Most spring perches are rounded on the edges to help with this, I know some Toyotas are not. I have studied leaf springs a lot and design/functiion of them.
Google search any of this and it will tell you the same thing. I do not want people to think it is "ok" without knowing the facts.
Rant over.
- Thread starter
- #43
I think you are greatly overthinking this. You realize there is no difference whether the block is on the top or the bottom right?
Many OEM applications come with blocks. Look at any Tremor F250.
I understand axle wrap very well. I went through snapped pinions with poorly designed SOA's without track bars.
- Thread starter
- #45
1" .... spring under. Not an issue.
- Thread starter
- #46
Ole girl got a fresh load of 15-40 with Zinc.
Fresh coat of Fluid Film on this perfectly dry desert frame
Fresh coat of Fluid Film on this perfectly dry desert frame
- Thread starter
- #47
Polished out the 27 year old paint. Got a few debts and a couple of hail dings but overall it's nice and smooth
What engine oil you using? I’ve started using the T-5 since it supposedly has a higher zinc count compared to most others
- Thread starter
- #49
Bloody nice so far. Very inspirational. I wish I could find a RHD one close to Australia.
Can I please get some more educationing about the Fluid Film? Its not too common here.
I havent seen it used in person, just online. I am looking at doing an underbody prep weekend on my FJ73 very soon (full flush, wash, seal)
Can I please get some more educationing about the Fluid Film? Its not too common here.
I havent seen it used in person, just online. I am looking at doing an underbody prep weekend on my FJ73 very soon (full flush, wash, seal)
- Thread starter
- #51
It's a lanolin oil. Very good at creeping into tight spots. Does not hurt paint or rubber so you can spray it on everything under the truck.
I use it to protect from mud and grime since I don't have salt on the roads here
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Does it smell funny?
Why are you using fluid film, since I would assume there is no road salt used there? I guess the wet climate is an adequate concern for frame rust to develop?
Also, do you anticipate using it on a yearly basis, or if not how often? Thanks.
Also, do you anticipate using it on a yearly basis, or if not how often? Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #54
Fluid film does. WoolWax does not.
- Thread starter
- #55
It will make old cruiser frames look new after it soaks in. Dirt and mud fall off when you pressure wash it. Makes the old rubber refreshed. It soaks into places mud can hide.
Lots if info on it on you tube. The Yankees use it yearly.
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- Thread starter
- #57
A visit to the bathroom and the brisket sandwich island?
May Allah brings this place to Saudi’s highways
- Thread starter
- #60
Brisket tacos for the winA visit to the bathroom and the brisket sandwich island?
