I've found these tie rod puller tools to work very well. Get it well seated, crank it down tight and then whack the end over the bolt section of the ball joint with a hammer.
1987 LJ70 frame swap + mods build thread (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Gubbtratt1
- Start date
-
- Tags
- builds
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #82
Tried that a couple times already.
Must really be on there then!
- Thread starter
- #84
So, I had made a custom anvil and was ready to go borrow the oxy acetylene from my neighbor, when I thought I'd give it a couple whacks just for fun. Well, it came right out. Now I just need a new shim as the old one got damaged and it'll be back together.
- Thread starter
- #85
New shim arrived yesterday, so I got to put the arm back in place. I noticed the bearing felt really terrible, and I couldn't get it out to inspect and clean, so I'll be doing a full birfield rebuild including bearings at some point.
the new heavy duty tie rod: solid 35mm bar.
you're not bending a 35mm bar back into shape with a sledgehammer one you've hit a rock with it, so a guard is almost more important than with a non-heavy duty tie rod. 50x100x7mm U-beam which right now is just tack welded in place, but it will get mounted at the radius arm mounting holes and with a clamp around the pinion.
I also got the front bushings replaced, so once the guard is done I can put the axle under the cruiser.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #86
I had planned to get the tie rod guard finished today, but I got a bit caught up on recovering my tractor and adjusting the headlights on the daily driver.
That's an interesting car, what is it? I feel like i recognise it.
- Thread starter
- #88
The tractor tow truck is a 1976 Mercedes 508D, and the daily is a 1967 Triumph 2000.
- Thread starter
- #89
The tie rod guard now has proper mounts.
I'm still debating if I should make a mount at the pinion too.
I'm still debating if I should make a mount at the pinion too.
- Thread starter
- #90
The front axle is finally under the new frame.
Now I just have to clean up a bit in the tent and mount the steering box and then I can continue welding the body and make the bumpers.
The Discovery 2 air springs fit perfectly in the front.
- Thread starter
- #91
The cruiser is back in the tent for further welding.
First of all, remaking the front winch mount again. I made the HJ60 front porch fit the LJ70 when I first bought it, but I have since discovered that my PTO spins the wrong way. I've also wanted to remake the welds with the new welder and replace some rivnuts with welded nuts, so I did that first. To fix the reverse rotation problem I've decided to ditch the original fairlead, which also is in terrible condition, and weld a standard roller fairlead in the bumper.
Is there a reason why you never see a welded on fairlead? Probably, but making it bolt on would complicate things more than needing a welder and angle grinder to replace it.
I also got the two propane tanks I'll be using as air tanks tapped to half inch BSP instead of the tapered whitworth they originally had.
First of all, remaking the front winch mount again. I made the HJ60 front porch fit the LJ70 when I first bought it, but I have since discovered that my PTO spins the wrong way. I've also wanted to remake the welds with the new welder and replace some rivnuts with welded nuts, so I did that first. To fix the reverse rotation problem I've decided to ditch the original fairlead, which also is in terrible condition, and weld a standard roller fairlead in the bumper.
Is there a reason why you never see a welded on fairlead? Probably, but making it bolt on would complicate things more than needing a welder and angle grinder to replace it.
I also got the two propane tanks I'll be using as air tanks tapped to half inch BSP instead of the tapered whitworth they originally had.
- Thread starter
- #92
The front bumper is pretty much finished, just missing three fine thread bolts and a ball hitch. I might also reinforce the bumper panel, but I'm not sure if it's necessary.
It will also get a bull bar of sorts at some point, to protect the extra lights and to act as a top link mount for a possible snow plow or something.
- Thread starter
- #93
Went to the local rubber hose store and got myself a hose for the snorkel.
Then I made a tee from a piece of 75mm galv pipe. This will go between the 75mm snorkel hose and a silicon reducer to the 60mm turbo. The 1/2 BSP connector will go to the compressor, crankcase breather, front axle breather and transmission breathers. The rear axle and fuel tank will get their own snorkel at the back.
I also made a breather adapter for the transfer case. It's a 1/8 BSP adapter kinda threaded and glued into the original press fit breather.
Then I attempted to fix some rust on the front fender, but I hadn't cut a big enough hole so it just burnt through everywhere, so that's where I gave up for today. I'll have to make a bigger hole and a bigger piece to fill it tomorrow.
I also made a breather adapter for the transfer case. It's a 1/8 BSP adapter kinda threaded and glued into the original press fit breather.
Then I attempted to fix some rust on the front fender, but I hadn't cut a big enough hole so it just burnt through everywhere, so that's where I gave up for today. I'll have to make a bigger hole and a bigger piece to fill it tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #94
The rust hole is fixed properly this time. Or well, the porosity problem with the small welder is back. It's probably fine.
I ordered parts for the air suspension some weeks ago, and they've started dropping in. Here's the rear leveling valve:
I might have mentioned it before, but since I find computerised systems way too expensive and I want both self leveling and manual valves I've decided to make double systems: manual valves and mechanical leveling valves, and valves to switch between the two.
I tried to get started on rebuilding the rear door hinges. They've already been rebuilt once, evident by the way too long bolt with a 13mm head. The bolt has snapped and both parts are very stuck. When I tried to get the top part to move the head snapped off.
I ordered parts for the air suspension some weeks ago, and they've started dropping in. Here's the rear leveling valve:
I might have mentioned it before, but since I find computerised systems way too expensive and I want both self leveling and manual valves I've decided to make double systems: manual valves and mechanical leveling valves, and valves to switch between the two.
I tried to get started on rebuilding the rear door hinges. They've already been rebuilt once, evident by the way too long bolt with a 13mm head. The bolt has snapped and both parts are very stuck. When I tried to get the top part to move the head snapped off.
- Thread starter
- #95
After fixing some more rust that I forgot to take a picture of I made the first lower spring mount plate, as I've decided it would be nice to have some suspension so I don't have to keep the cruiser on jack stands. Technically I just need some bump stops for that, but I don't know how tall to make the bump stops before the rest of the suspension is built.
These will be welded to the axles with 50mm spacers in the front and 75mm in the back, to match the travel of the shocks.
While grinding them I couldn't stop thinking that a bench grinder would make it much easier. So, I made one.
It might not be the easiest to use or the safest one, but it was a lot better than having the workpiece clamped down.
I converted another shock from eyes to pins so I could mount it in the front and use to define the suspension travel. I then took as accurate measurements as possible both front and rear. The results are:
Front suspension travel: 28.5cm (minus a bit for bump stops. Possibly 3cm to match the rear, but more might be necessary)
Hub to wheelarch at full compression: 45.5cm (again, plus a bit to match bump stops)
Hub to wheelarch at full extension: 74cm
Rear suspension travel: 23cm (will get pretty much matched by the bump stops)
Hub to wheelarch at full compression: 48.5cm
Hub to wheelarch at full extension: 71.5cm
These will be welded to the axles with 50mm spacers in the front and 75mm in the back, to match the travel of the shocks.
While grinding them I couldn't stop thinking that a bench grinder would make it much easier. So, I made one.
It might not be the easiest to use or the safest one, but it was a lot better than having the workpiece clamped down.
I converted another shock from eyes to pins so I could mount it in the front and use to define the suspension travel. I then took as accurate measurements as possible both front and rear. The results are:
Front suspension travel: 28.5cm (minus a bit for bump stops. Possibly 3cm to match the rear, but more might be necessary)
Hub to wheelarch at full compression: 45.5cm (again, plus a bit to match bump stops)
Hub to wheelarch at full extension: 74cm
Rear suspension travel: 23cm (will get pretty much matched by the bump stops)
Hub to wheelarch at full compression: 48.5cm
Hub to wheelarch at full extension: 71.5cm
- Thread starter
- #96
Made a top mount for the air springs. Spaces it down enough to clear the center on the stock spring holder and has a bolt that holds it in place via the existing hole. Now I just have to make three more top mounts and three more bottom mounts...
I also mounted the front panhard rod and measured how much longer it needs to be: approximately 10mm. At some point I will get heavy duty adjustable panhards, but for now I'll make the front rod longer and, as the old mount had some rust damage, move the axle mount for the rear rod.
I also mounted the front panhard rod and measured how much longer it needs to be: approximately 10mm. At some point I will get heavy duty adjustable panhards, but for now I'll make the front rod longer and, as the old mount had some rust damage, move the axle mount for the rear rod.
- Thread starter
- #97
Got the bottom mount tacked in place with the appropriate spacer.
The spring fits and lifts the vehicle, which has allowed me to do the first prelimiary suspension softness test. The shock is a bit too stiff, but it should even out once the engine is mounted.
Range Rover springs might fit if I decide to change back to coils at some point, or puncture an air bag and have to keep it running for a bit. It's a bit tight at the bottom. They might even be the exact right length though.
All chinesium pneumatic parts off ebay has arrived, so I put together some valves. The manual system should be done, just the automatic leveling valves left.
All chinesium pneumatic parts off ebay has arrived, so I put together some valves. The manual system should be done, just the automatic leveling valves left.
