Official 37" and up picture thread

[Broski]

I did not like the Battle born beatlocks
So I got a set Walker Evens racing bead locks 17 -8.5 with 3.75 back spacing with my 39 x 12.50 17 mud hogs.

 

[baldilocks]

I did not like the Battle born beatlocks
So I got a set Walker Evens racing bead locks 17 -8.5 with 3.75 back spacing with my 39 x 12.50 17 mud hogs.

View attachment 2813412

View attachment 2813414

These look sharp and a more appropriate width.

 

[COYS]

I recently moved from 17x9 -25 wheels to -38s running the same 37x12.5 tires.

Now I’m rubbing in the rear mud flap area driver side at near full lock left turn.

If it’s an easy and clean job to bend that body metal an extra centimeter or so that I need, I will keep the -38s, else fall back to the -25s.

Any guidance here to spare?

Credit to @Feldrian for the pic.

Many thanks.

 

[Feldrian]

I trimmed the support and bent my inner fender back. Pretty easy job - took maybe 45 min a side, inclusive of paint.

 

[COYS]

I trimmed the support and bent my inner fender back. Pretty easy job - took maybe 45 min a side, inclusive of paint.

When you say trimmed you actually cut the backside of the contact area where it’s rubbing? Any cutting is a hard stop for me.

 

[Feldrian]

When you say trimmed you actually cut the backside of the contact area where it’s rubbing? Any cutting is a hard stop for me.

Yup, you'll ether have to cut or hit it with a mallet and bend it. Cutting seemed like the more elegant option.

Other option is Delta's long radius arms. I think they move the front diff about 3/4" forwards.

 

[Box Rocket]

When you say trimmed you actually cut the backside of the contact area where it’s rubbing? Any cutting is a hard stop for me.

Move your front axle forward. Either with aftermarket radius arms or with relocation plates. I went the relocation plates route. Opened up a lot more room for 37’s. Mine were rubbing badly in the same area until I moved the axle. You only need to move it an inch or so. I moved mine 1.25”
Redline Land Cruisers sells the relocation kit.
It’s just the 4 plates (one for each side of the radius arm bracket). I made my own.

 

[COYS]

Move your front axle forward. Either with aftermarket radius arms or with relocation plates. I went the relocation plates route. Opened up a lot more room for 37’s. Mine were rubbing badly in the same area until I moved the axle. You only need to move it an inch or so. I moved mine 1.25”
Redline Land Cruisers sells the relocation kit.
It’s just the 4 plates (one for each side of the radius arm bracket). I made my own.
View attachment 2940015
View attachment 2940016
View attachment 2940017

I’m already running Delta 4s. Many thanks.

 

[Bambusiero]

Suggest that you switch back to your ET-25mm wheels, you will be a bout 1/2" better off for this type of rubbing.
But - enough better? Hard to guess.

ET-38mm = 1.50" which is how much that wheel moves the entire tire outboard i.e. the outside tread edge outward (relative to the hub mounting surface, and relative to the OEM landcruiser wheels, which are ET0mm).
Does that explain your rubbing the outside edge of drivers side front wheel (you meant that right?) when at full lock left? yes?

Likewise, ET-25mm=1.0" outward.

If I had chosen to go to 37s, I would have selected 8" or 8.5" wide wheels and offset either ET0mm or, at most, ET-10mm, which moves the tire 0.4" outward - maybe just enough to reduce inside fender rubbing some, but without threatening to causing the opposite problem like you have.

Although - the wheel width should have no influence on the tread edge position, only partial influence (about 1/2 x) on the actual section width at the widest part of the bulge). Still I see no benefit at all - of a wider wheel than the minimum allowed by most tire manufacturers, which is usually 8".
Wider just pushes the rim out closer to rock damage, right? - with less tire bulge to shield it.

Right now, with this situation, the tread edge is very likely to catch the bottom edge of the fender, bend it up, and slice off tread, too.
You had better re-work that bottom edge, bend it under, away from the tire, and secure it very firmly - that square hole can hold a round-head screw into a sheet metal clip-on nut, something like this, on the sheet metal behind what you see.

I think a sturdy pair of flat-nose pliers, or even a channel-lock plier - bend back a spot, just a little, move over, repeat - a little at a time, until it looks good to you.

37 inch tires is "threading the needle" isn't it? - No margin for error in any direction.

 

[on the rocks]

I’m already running Delta 4s. Many thanks.

Sell them. I sold mine in a day here and didn't even list them. The 4's are bulk order so taking a bit to get so a used set for immediate delivery has some value. Got full price on mine but they had a couple drives on them. Actually went 5L as the caster was a bit under.

 

[Feldrian]

Sell them. I sold mine in a day here and didn't even list them. The 4's are bulk order so taking a bit to get so a used set for immediate delivery has some value. Got full price on mine but they had a couple drives on them. Actually went 5L as the caster was a bit under.

I think I'm going to do the same thing. My caster was slightly under too - My Dobinson's ended up netting more height than expected.

 

[Feldrian]

A little additional room in case I ever want to run a chain on the tire would be welcomed too.

 

[COYS]

I have a little less room on driver side than pass side which explains the rubbing. Half a centimeter?

I have a very modest 2-2.5” OME lift and don’t want to touch the suspension for a 99% errand running 80. Caster is at 4 degrees even last time I checked.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I have a little less room on driver side than pass side which explains the rubbing. Half a centimeter?

View attachment 2940155

I have a very modest 2-2.5” OME lift and don’t want to touch the suspension for a 99% errand running 80. Caster is at 4 degrees even last time I checked.

casual sub flex

 

[thatcabledude]

That area that it’s rubbing can be bent easily. I don’t think it would even be noticeable. No need to cut like @Feldrian mentioned since it’s not going to be wheeled.

 

[on the rocks]

If I remember right, it was a slight rub on one side more than the other here as well so may be common. Keep in mind even if not going off-road every dip, bump, curb and so on will likely still rub so make sure to consider that. These heavy 37's move around on the road more than you may realize. I'm running big fat 13.5's so it may be a bit worse but, what convinced me to just make the move.
Not to take anything away from the Delta team by re-selling your 4's instead of them turning a new set out but there are more that you realize looking for their 4's and an easy sell. It also helps someone else not so lucky to be able to afford a new set @ full price, the new sets are more than what we paid on for the 4's so your price is actually a discount now even if you sell them as used you can break even.
That and with how nice you white 80 is do you really want to start cutting and bending or do it right @COYS ? They also do 4L's if your good on your caster and I thought have all L versions on hand ready to ship.

 

[GOTLOCKED96]

Like most have stated.
Option 1 bang her into submission.
Option 2 arm mount relocation.
Option 3 longer arms.

I am running Slee's 6" arms on my 4" and everything works perfectly.

I believe Delta now has "L" aka long arms now just for this purpose.

 

[Broski]

I thought this was a Picture thread

Post up pictures of your 37s and up tires preferably in the wild
With how you make them work, if you like.

Cheers

 

[GOTLOCKED96]

I thought this was a Picture thread

Post up pictures of your 37s and up tires preferably in the wild
With how you make them work, if you like.

Cheers

Since it is still in process, here is the mostly recent picture I have seen...

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Post up pictures of your 37s and up tires preferably in the wild

Lol, does running errands and getting coffee count as the wild?