Kernal

Unless your fan clutch has been modded, this is a good opportunity for that update.

Thermostat T-Stat gasket (3) O-rings for T-Stat bypass PHH Heater Valve All hoses to heater cores Throttle body to block Hose around front to thermostat housing Literally EVERY hose in the cooling system. Hoses from the hard lines to the rear...

4 by-pass hoses. ;)

My build reference from the internet..... Love the classic vibe of these build

"what other parts should I consider replacing “since I’m in there”?" Depends, how far do you want to go? If the Thermostat is the original or unknown age I would definitely plan on replacing that with an OEM part. If the cooling system is full...

A new OEM radiator will come with a new cap.

FYI, that picture I showed is the plug for the ECT (for gauge) illustrated below:

Looks a lot like this one:

Take a photo and post it so that someone searching in the future can reference. Glad you found it!

Start with this list (you will also find this if you search a bit): Critical Blade Fuses There are only three critical regular sized fuses required for the engine to start and run 15A EFI located in the underhood fuse box 7.5A Ignition located...

Yep, that snugged it up!!!! Thanks all for the suggestions! Scott

Thanks again for all the great advice! That was very insightful. I'll make sure to re-grease prior to storing the old shaft. I plan on later wire wheeling and using ScotchBright, once I get some more time. I have run the new driveshaft. I did a...

Sorta related topic: if you just want to replace the metal U shaped water heater pipe and eliminate a couple of clamps (but still keep the rear heater) there is a Gates hose that can be cut to fit: First photo shows the pieces that were cut off...

oof - the 80 series upper link mounts are significantly different than the 3rd gen T4R (as expected) - but seem really under-engineered vs. the lighter platform. And that passenger side mount kinda makes me cringe with it's limited attachment to...

Better of course to replace those hoses if they're the source of your leak. The OEM formed cooler hoses on the side of the engine block are NLA so it would need to be ATF compatible hose of course.

The 3rd gen T4Rs are tearing them off the axle due to the short upper link and extreme angles once lifted, so I designed the reinforcement to fix that (for most use cases.) If the 80s are seeing a similar failure, I'll happily work something up...

I've seen this a few times and each time I swapped in a housing. When I see sections missing from rot I'm nervous about the whole housing. Call Cruiser Parts in NH. They use to list bare housings but not any more.

His 3rd gen 4Runner Upper Link mount is what I found. I would buy something like that in a heart beat. I think I have an earlier rear 4Runner axle. I should compare the two upper mounts and see what the differences are. CAD is in my wheelhouse...

Find someone with a hand held 3D scanner, send the scan to someone else who can make up a pair of brackets (or find a less rusty axle housing). FWIW, here's a cheap 3D scanner:

If you are creative and handy with CAD you can use sendcutsend.com to make pieces you can weld together on the truck. If you are real creative you can perfect it and sell it as a kit.

I should have mentioned belts are all 2.5 years old, along with the pulley. 22K miles of driving on them. I'll go through this list. I hadn't heard of the spraying water on the belts test, easy start point.

Limiting the amount of water entering the pan is key. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sunroof-front-and-rear-drains-clear-but.1104685/post-12024552

Your drain tube looks compressed by the wire bundle sitting on top of it. I had to play games with mine to keep it open. I trimmed some of the plastic on the back side of the kick panel to keep pressure off the tube. I also expanded the gasket...

In the 95-97 model FZJ80's with the A343F transmission there are two transmission cooler lines that run along the left side of the lower engine block. Just in front the starter there are two formed cooler line rubber hoses that connect two hard...

All the above; spray water on the belts, if it goes away for a second or two then comes back, it's the belts, if it doesn't go away for a moment then it's something else that's moving.