My 76 1UZ build

[RUSH55]

Looking good Calgary You’ll need to get some u-bolt flip kits soon.

Started on the rear dual swing bumper, @RUSH55, thinking I will use the old rear shackle mount to tie in a rear slider, not sure if you have already cut yours off, but its an idea.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with!

 

[YukonCruisers]

Regarding the gate assembly, I recall a guide, but I couldn't find it in search. Anyway, I have freed up the tailgate lock but it seems to only be an electrical connection for the glass, meanwhile I have this locking latch connected to nothing... anyone have a link or a pic?

 

[scrapdaddy]

Rear window article available from Gary S

Does the little rod and metal strip go together as shown?. Do they connect to the limiter on the right and the lever on the left where the spring is attached? I have not seen any pics on this particular connection? I know this is an old thread, but didn't see a reply to the question posted...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[PabloCruise]

Good solution to the broken handle.

x2! That is some clever thinking!!!

 

[YukonCruisers]

One little thing done.. thanks @scrapdaddy.

Glass and some upper felt guides and I can button up the back.

 

[YukonCruisers]

I am still waiting on a number of parts, but I just got the rear hubs back from a club member who turned them and now those 60 rotor just slide on and the alignment to the new calipers is almost perfect. Think I will order new seals and the MC4s this week. While I wait on these and the TC adapter, I decided to move the rear carrier along, rolled in a 35 for test fitting, they always seem huge in the garage. Not sure why I bothered painting the TOYOTA symbol in the back.

Also wired up the stereo (I like my music and I like it loud.

 

[YukonCruisers]

and one more:

 

[YukonCruisers]

So the MC4 brake caliper just arrived, looks like it will work, I just have to figure out how to mount it. I think i have two options, but would welcome advice.

Whatever mounting design I use, I have to finish with two holes I can put bolts through 14.5mm inboard of the rotor. The ring or whatever its called on the axle starts at 12.9mm so the front face of whatever I mount finishes inboard of that.

The main caliper is welded to the ring, so I could follow the same approach and cut/grind a plate to weld there and then bolt the MC4 to it.

Ideally, I'd like to bolt the plate on using two of the bolts in the last picture, but I would have to put a jog in the plate and I am not sure I can do that with any accuracy.. i do have a 20t press though, don't have any brakes or anything built though.

EDIT: maybe a flat plate with washers or spacers? or would that be too sketch?

Thoughts? @mano002 you were interested in this bit..

EDIT: here are the part numbers - note that the difference between some of the MC4 styles is the spacing of the mounting bolts, this version is the widest (I think):
120-12070bk left side
120-12069bk right
I also ordered the Wilwood cable kit, lokar kits also work apparently. All ordered from Amazon

 

[YukonCruisers]

Found a miata guy who did this, seems simple enough and I think that's a spacer in there:

 

[Megadoomer]

Oh that's a neat system. Is that what they would use for drifting?

 

[YukonCruisers]

Maybe, for a car that light you could just flick the wheel and send the back out, my old tr3 was like that. Why he put them up front though, no idea, burnouts?

Anyway, CAD 1 and 2, thinking this might work, will pick up some metal on the weekend and see how the design transfers...

 

[mano002]

Very cool. If you are getting those brackets laser cut, I'd take a pair.

 

[YukonCruisers]

Had an offer from a member to plasma cut, but hate to impose since he already milled the hubs for me, we'll see, but its likely grinder time..

 

[YukonCruisers]

New question, shock valving. I am going to go with Bilstein 5165s, but have a few options on valving. Considerations: it will have to go on highways to get to the trails, but once there will go slow on mostly mountainous terrain, and its not a daily, is relatively heavy and rolling 35s. Its always about trade offs so do you think 255/70 or a more mushy option, or even a stiffer option for the bigger tires?

options (model, travel, compressed length, extended length)

25-187700​	11.30​	170/60​	16.10​	27.40​	​	​
25-187717​	11.30​	255/70​	16.10​	27.40​	​	​
25-187724​	11.30​	360/80​	16.10​	27.40​	​	​
25-175783​	11.60​	255/70​	16.90​	28.50​	​

 

[RUSH55]

She said stiffer

 

[YukonCruisers]

@J Mack on or about page 60 of your thread you said you are running 180# front 150# rear, would you choose that valving again and would you alter it if you had additional weight in the back? (I think we are about the same weight up front, but will have a bit more hanging off the rear bumper). I want to make sure that the truck will be able to compress the shocks off road, but be ok around town on highway, I'm ok with a bit of float on corners for example - as it is, my springs I expect will be pretty stiff. Appreciate your feedback, thx

 

[J Mack]

@J Mack on or about page 60 of your thread you said you are running 180# front 150# rear, would you choose that valving again

That is the nitrogen charge in PSI I run in my shocks not the valving.

I am running King shocks and worked with Ben at Filthy Motorsports to get the valving correct front to rear and he nailed it, I believe @scrapdaddy called and got the same setup for his.

If you have it in your budget I can’t recommend the King shocks enough, I have been on some fast washboard roads in quite a few different vehicles stock and modified coil spring and leaf and other than my buggy 55 that has coilovers and bypasses this setup with the longer rear springs and King shocks is impressive.

 

[YukonCruisers]

Thanks @J Mack, appreciate that, I wondered if those numbers were comparable or not. I am afraid Kings are out of the budget at this point, base Bils will be about $500, reservoir, $1000, and kings over $2000CAD, and I am way, way over budget on this already especially with my screw-up on the electrical (although she still thinks i am under $5000)...

 

[J Mack]

I am afraid Kings are out of the budget at this point,

Here in the states a Bilstein 5165 will cost about $200 and a 2.0 smoothie King will cost about $330, the $520 difference for a set of four between the two choices makes it a little easier to go with the Kings.

 

[YukonCruisers]

Yeah, we face an exchange premium, brokerage and shipping - if they were closer, I'd go with King. I threw a post on the tech forum re the Tough Dog adjustable shocks too. One of the guys in the local club is a rep, he has them on his 80 and they look beefy, been around in Australia since the 80s, apparently have high heat resistance and low fade, but offer the option to be loose on the trails and tighter around town. No idea how long you can keep the dial from seizing in one spot though as I just experienced on my son's coil overs.