My 76 1UZ build

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Do you mean this guy? If I mount through the top, the tre is in front... this orientation might actually be better than stock in terms of alignment to my forward facing pitman arm..

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It won't come in contact with the frame? Mine is close with the tre on the bottom. I guess it just depends where you mounted the box on the frame.
 
No, in that last picture will the rod end rub the under side of the frame when turning? Mine is close and isn't flipped.
 
OK, I see what you mean. I will try and get some time this weekend to play with it, but I think I am going to be forced to go on top anyway -my relay rod is further forward than the front of the knuckles, if I go on the bottom, the two rods will be crossed since the long TRE only allows for mounting on one side... if that makes any sense. If it looks like I will have contact at full lock, I suppose I could bend the relay rod slightly, but that's a problem for next week :)
 
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I’ve got both lock cylinders out of the 74, was going to get keys made. Not looking forward to the re-install.
BTW, for those of you who know (sorry, hijacking the thread), are there 3 different keys (ignition, doors, tailgate keyswitch) on a 55? Or is the tailgate keyswitch keyed like the ignition or doors?

Keyway seems different on all three.

(yes, some of you have a lock on the fuel door as well. I’m not blessed with that on this pig.)

My '74 has ignition key different than the key for doors and tailgate.

2 keys total.
 
It depends on the design of the shim, but you can get a spacer for the head of the pin, or you remove the spring pin and put the pin thought the shim so it still sticks out the same amount as before.
I wouldn’t rely on compression. The center bolt recessed into the perch hole creates a positive mechanical lock when the u-bolts are tight. Movement in that area creates havoc.
If need be, you can get center bolts with a longer head section for just such a purpose.
yeah, the head of the pin should still stick out the same amount as before.

This is the way...
 
Time for some updates..

Engine wiring, a mess, in hindsight should have sent it all to a pro from the beginning - currently going with a aftermarket ecu system - had I started there, I'd have save $1000.

J70 suspension and all the bushings are finally here, everything is resting in place waitying on some final measurements.

Started on the rear dual swing bumper, @RUSH55, thinking I will use the old rear shackle mount to tie in a rear slider, not sure if you have already cut yours off, but its an idea.

Still waiting on an adapter plate for the r150f to blackbox (recall that there were two types of r150f bolt pattern, mine is the one AA doesn't make) so stalled on engine install until that comes.

I am stuck on my brakes too, the rotors I ordered seem to be just a smidge too small to fit over the hub - need to determine if they are lug centric and I can trim or if I need to have a machinist turn them - need to pull the old ones from the front, so will compare sizes and see. If I can get them on, it looks like I can use the FJ60 calipers and I have decided to go with trying to mount the Wilwood MC4 emergency brakes - will order i once I confirm the main FJ60 caliper will work.

Now the fun one, I was stalled on the rear gate because I couldn't bring myself to spend 300 on a gate handle, so I took a run at reinforcing - after confirming there is no way you can weld that alloy... Note pic 2 the arm from the handle to the latch seemed too short, so I made a new one to tighten everything up - can now proceed to install the lift mechanism.

Pictures:
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And yes, I have beat the s*** out my gate my constantly opening it on things that I have left on the bumper.
 
Looking good!!
Need more info on that saw, please sir.
Mike
 
It's basically a slow speed circular saw with a diablo blade from Amazon. I used it to rip though 3/16 plate and it moves at the same speed as though cutting ply with a circular saw.

I think they are usually called cold cut metal saws.

I bought this used for 250 CAD without a blade (60). I had a metal bandsaw, better for some finer work for sure, but sold it to buy this and not looking back. If you are fabbing a bumper, buy one, its great
 

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