A pig is heavy and it seems guys with similar spring packs wind up adding leaves back. Mine are a cobbled pack, but compare to those FJ70 ones. Maybe they will chime in.
My 76 1UZ build
- Thread starter YukonCruisers
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bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
My Red Pig , when delivered driver said weight in excess of 5000 lbs! Springs you bought are for a Pickemup with no weight in the Ass
. 
s Ass is a lot heavier 
This is the weight on my pig with a swing out and spare, roll cage and SBC with a slush box.
I have the 70's setup witht the 'Heavies' and they work well. Bit jolty over bumps when it unloaded, but with a full tank (55 gallons) and stuffed full of gear it rides nice.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
I have those springs on my FZJ75 pickup. Harshest ride I have ever driven but, as others have said, the pickups have no weight in the rear.
If I were less lazy I would take some out and explore the difference. I kinda built the thing for loaded experiences.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
RUSH55
SILVER Star
SBC about 200lbs lighter than a 2F
My truck weighs 5700 loaded
Id keep all the long leafs in and just pull the two easy to reinstall small ones if I had a do over
Id keep all the long leafs in and just pull the two easy to reinstall small ones if I had a do over
- Thread starter
- #130
@RUSH55 Coincidentally, the 1UZ is 200lb lighter as well.
OK, I had just a little bit of time this weekend but did manage to measure things up. The old springs and the new ones are exactly thickness at the center (1.9") minus the heavy flat load springs, so as suggested, I will try them out unchanged. Especially since pin to pin length is longer so at least in theory that will soften it a bit. My main concern was not being able to get compression on the trail - but I'll start here and see how it goes.
Quick question though - for the fronts I am going to install 6 degree shims, these will cover up the centering pin, do you rely on compression to hold the axle in place or put a plug or section of rod in there to ensure centering?
Pretty excited to get those axles under her - just have to ream for the TREs and weld on the shock mounts (looks like they will just fit between the hub and the brake line tab.
Now if I could just get the adapter for my black box I could really get moving...
OK, I had just a little bit of time this weekend but did manage to measure things up. The old springs and the new ones are exactly thickness at the center (1.9") minus the heavy flat load springs, so as suggested, I will try them out unchanged. Especially since pin to pin length is longer so at least in theory that will soften it a bit. My main concern was not being able to get compression on the trail - but I'll start here and see how it goes.
Quick question though - for the fronts I am going to install 6 degree shims, these will cover up the centering pin, do you rely on compression to hold the axle in place or put a plug or section of rod in there to ensure centering?
Pretty excited to get those axles under her - just have to ream for the TREs and weld on the shock mounts (looks like they will just fit between the hub and the brake line tab.
Now if I could just get the adapter for my black box I could really get moving...
It depends on the design of the shim, but you can get a spacer for the head of the pin, or you remove the spring pin and put the pin thought the shim so it still sticks out the same amount as before.
- Thread starter
- #132
Cool, so not compression - I will figure something out. I have to move the pin back an inch to recentre the axle anyway (the j70 springs push the axle forward an inch)
RUSH55
SILVER Star
I wouldn’t rely on compression. The center bolt recessed into the perch hole creates a positive mechanical lock when the u-bolts are tight. Movement in that area creates havoc.
If need be, you can get center bolts with a longer head section for just such a purpose.
If need be, you can get center bolts with a longer head section for just such a purpose.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Yup. I snapped the center bolt in my 78 F250!! Drove it home, wasn't fun but it made it
yeah, the head of the pin should still stick out the same amount as before.
- Thread starter
- #136
Its too bad the shim is cast, would be easiest for me to drill and weld in a plug in that to correct the offset, not looking forward to drilling through 2.5" of steel...
Edit: ordered bolt spacers and longer bolts, will drill a new hole in the axle mount and shim to correct the offset, easy peasy
Edit: ordered bolt spacers and longer bolts, will drill a new hole in the axle mount and shim to correct the offset, easy peasy
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I was just going to type this, offset the hole in spring pad, not springs, good stuff.
- Thread starter
- #138
Another quick question, I have to ream my knuckle arms to take the 1 ton taper, any issues with flipping the steering tie rod from the bottom to the top? the thin end of the new tie rod is 2mm thicker than the thick end of the old one so there will be full contact with the new TRE. Just thinking higher is better, a little less likely to slam into a rock and perhaps a bit less bump steer.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Good question, don’t think I’ve ever seen that
What is the orientation of the tie-rod with the tapered hole you are going to tie-into? it might force your hand.
