My 76 1UZ build

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I feel bad that my wife has to go in to work and I can work from home, but I like the perk that she doesn't see the steady stream of parts coming in...
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And another package! This one i have been waiting and waiting on. Because the r150f had two bolt patterns and AA only had the type i dont have, NW Fab had to custom make this and with covid and short staffed, it took months. Hopefully it fits!

There have been so many deliveries that this guy stuck around by the door to check in on why the old dog wasn't in his usual spot flaked out by the door (he was upstairs) but you you know you are getting lots of deliveries when.

@RUSH55 here is the hold down...hefty. Edit - in fact the clamp is too wide for my 2x2 structure, will have to add some material there to be able to bolt on...
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This past summer someone was selling fj55 front clip and bumper and such - In the end it was worse than mine was so resold it, but kept the grill and bumper...I think after the resale I am in to it for $100. I straightened the bumper this past summer and was just wire wheeling it at lunch and it turns out it's an old Con-Ferr, cool eh?
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So I have been tinkering on a few things while I wait for it to warm up enough to take on the engine/cross member install and I have some questions on fuel delivery for the V8. I have no time to replace the tank before we move and can't even look at @RUSH55 thread right now without being jealous :) So no internal swirl pots and hydra mat and such are out for now.

I am hopeful my tank is ok as it was being used as a yard and plow truck before i got it and the existing plastic filter is clean. Anyway, I'd like to test my fuel delivery plan with you guys:

I am thinking I can run from the lower output on the existing tank, though a 20-30um filter, to the 190lph walbro inline pump though the existing fuel lines a 10um post filter (possible screw on per @J Mack suggestions elsewhere), 1UZ fuel rail and back.

Do you think the existing lines are big enough? From a fitting perspective should I look at AN fittings and replace sections with wider steel or a different kind of line? I also have to figure out how to connect to the engine as it has a rubber hose that was crimped on to the inlet. Simple, economical and reliable is what I would like, hoping you don't say "pick two"

I had briefly thought of putting one of these in the spare tire space and treating it as both a swirl and extra capacity, but it was getting complicated in my head quickly - mounting would be easy using the existing spare tire holder holes in the frame for rails - would fit nicely, even with a skid plate it would only hang down to about half of the shackle height. However, fuel flow and connections seemed complicated:

 
I am at the opposite end of the temperature spectrum - moving to Whitehorse Yukon 🥶

So, @gonzopancho you had no fuel starvation with existing lines? @RUSH55 kind of the same question, wouldn't the tank inlet outlets be limiting?

I suppose I can run the lines now regardless and upgrade the tank end at a later date. Thoughts on material for the lines - steel or other products? Evil Energy nylon stainless braided kits seem popular on amazon, but I suspect hard lines are better(?)
 
So, @gonzopancho you had no fuel starvation with existing lines? @RUSH55 kind of the same question, wouldn't the tank inlet outlets be limiting?

I suppose I can run the lines now regardless and upgrade the tank end at a later date. Thoughts on material for the lines - steel or other products? Evil Energy nylon stainless braided kits seem popular on amazon, but I suspect hard lines are better(?)

Yeah, the supply from the tank would be limiting, which would mean you’d be running an external pump. BUT.... just remembered @DoubleNickels posted a thread about running a pickup tube through the sending unit hat. Could be the ticket if you’re not planning on running an in-tank pump.
 
I missed that - could be a very good solution - thanks!


Edit: still pinched on the return line though - unless I put a "T" in and utilize two of the original 3 ports on the side of the tank for the return... hmmm 🤔
 
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I have been stacking parts in an amazon cart... If I go with 6AN throughout, a 30 and 10 micron filter as walbro seems to recommend for before and after pump filtration ($30 and $200 CAD respectively) plus a Hydramat (I know, but it's cool and reusable if I build a tank ($247)) then the cart price for all the 6AN bits and nylon stainless braided line from Evil Energy is $645.. yeah, pick 2, simple, cheap and reliable... Drop the mat and scale back the post filtration and I could get it down to cheap (ish)
 
scale back
Yep, you are a talented guy.
All this could be done with steel line bought from the local auto parts store on a budget and work just fine. They sell pumps, screens, fittings, lines and filters that keep cars on the road and no reason that won't work for you.
 
I am at the opposite end of the temperature spectrum - moving to Whitehorse Yukon 🥶
Yeah, I saw. That’s why YMMV.
So, @gonzopancho you had no fuel starvation with existing lines?
No, I didn’t have any fuel starvation, but then, I didn’t really spend much time at WOT.

I don’t know much about the 2UZ-FE (yet, I have one destined for my build.) That L31 won’t deliver any fuel without the rail above 55psi

The 21lb/hr L31 poppets flow 23.5lb/hr at the regulated pressure of 65psi. I upgraded to the MPI setup that GM sold for the L31, but that was after the fuel pump was in the tank.

I used one of these Surge Tank, with 3 Machined Aluminum Door - https://fuelsafe.com/st200-b/ in an aux tank that Downey used to sell. 1964-83 Toyota Landcruiser Fuel Cell | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-83-Toyota-Landcruiser-Fuel-Cell/264985532557?hash=item3db25e588d:g:iKIAAMXQATlRaSqT
Held in-place by fuel cell foam.

From what I can find, the 2UZ-FE injectors are rated at 275 cc/min, which converts (cc/min = lb/hr × 10.5) to 26.19 lb/hr. Fuel pressure spec is 38-44 psi while running.

That’s right, the 4.7L 2UZ-FE runs larger injectors than a 5.7L L31, but less rail pressure.
 

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