Builds My 1978 Nut and Bolt Frame Off Restoration (2 Viewers)
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kunzma
SILVER Star
Excellent work! Following.
@MScruiser - love the thread/build, 2 quick questions for Ya:
1) what's the verdict on the IR air file? Worth the investment?
2). Did you like your spray gun ?
I'm still patching and patching, and my crapbox welding is resulting in some warpage so after some hammer and dollying I'll likely be ready for a lot of primer, filler and lots of sanding!
1) what's the verdict on the IR air file? Worth the investment?
2). Did you like your spray gun ?
I'm still patching and patching, and my crapbox welding is resulting in some warpage so after some hammer and dollying I'll likely be ready for a lot of primer, filler and lots of sanding!
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #284
I really like the airfile. Had one from Harbor Frieght; it was a major piece of crap. Key to the IR (I have found) is to keep both oil lube holes lubed daily. TOTALLY worth the $90. Paid for itself in only a few hours.
I like the spray gun too; I'm still not very good at getting it good and dialed in though. I'm certainly going to practice more before I spray the base/clear.
I like the spray gun too; I'm still not very good at getting it good and dialed in though. I'm certainly going to practice more before I spray the base/clear.
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Man, just catching up on this build, makes me realize how far I have to go on mine...but I love the detail.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Just read through this entire thread. Another great reference for when I build my 75. Excellent work! Subscribed!
Looks like u have some mild rust in the spot welded joints. One thing I have done for those is take rust converter and basically pour it onto the seem so that it runs down into the joint and treat the rust without separating the panel. Are u going to do a guide coat sandable primer as Well?
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MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #291
Getting my notes in order before I get started with paint. I'm attaching my notes, less for y'all and more for me, as I'm sure I'll forget all this, and want to paint something again in the future. This way, I'll never lose it.
Prepping myself to place a big a$$ order at the paint supplier. I'll be surprised if 2k primer, reducers, activators, clears, basecoat, etc. cost any less than $1500.
Prepping myself to place a big a$$ order at the paint supplier. I'll be surprised if 2k primer, reducers, activators, clears, basecoat, etc. cost any less than $1500.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #293
Spent the whole morning spraying paint samples. Big PITA, because that means I have to clean the gun after each color.
The sample on the far left was Toyota 637. Obviously this is not the correct shade, even though the paint shop insisted it was; it has waaay too much green in it. The middle color was my first attempt at matching the lighter shade of olive green. Although it looks good, it's still contains too much yellow. So I went back to the body shop again and found the far right color, which I think is a very close match to what I am looking for.
Here's a shot of the swatches with the rear Toyota emblem for reference. The picture was taken in late afternoon with indirect sunlight.
I think once the clear is on, making it just a hair darker, it'll be perfect.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #294
As a matter of fact, here's the paint card after hitting the right side with clearcoat.
I think it's going to look perfect
Edit: man, it's hard to take a good photo that captures the color. Trust me though, it looks good!
I think it's going to look perfect
Edit: man, it's hard to take a good photo that captures the color. Trust me though, it looks good!
Paint color choices look great. . . you could probably pick any of the three samples you have pictured and have a winner.
As far as your painting flowchart goes the paint shop you are purchasing your supplies from should be able to provide you with good step by step directions for the materials that you are using. As you already know all the time and effort is mostly spent in the preparation. After dealing with any big dings or metal work I usually start with an epoxy primer followed by a 2K high build primer. I usually apply several heavy coats of the high build primer and then block sand everything down, usually followed by a sealer primer. At that point I usually spray several coats of my single stage polyurethane enamel. Depending on the result and the material sprayed (cast iron is usually left as it, sheet metal gets a little more finesse) I will wet sand and buff for a nice finish. No wax until the paint is fully cured.
Basically what you have written down, just take your time and you should have a nice end result when you are done.
As far as your painting flowchart goes the paint shop you are purchasing your supplies from should be able to provide you with good step by step directions for the materials that you are using. As you already know all the time and effort is mostly spent in the preparation. After dealing with any big dings or metal work I usually start with an epoxy primer followed by a 2K high build primer. I usually apply several heavy coats of the high build primer and then block sand everything down, usually followed by a sealer primer. At that point I usually spray several coats of my single stage polyurethane enamel. Depending on the result and the material sprayed (cast iron is usually left as it, sheet metal gets a little more finesse) I will wet sand and buff for a nice finish. No wax until the paint is fully cured.
Basically what you have written down, just take your time and you should have a nice end result when you are done.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #299
Yup. Thanks @TractorDoc , that's my plan too.
And suggestions for wet sanding supplies? Are there sanding blocks specifically designed for wet sanding?
And suggestions for wet sanding supplies? Are there sanding blocks specifically designed for wet sanding?
Your paint shop will likely have wet sanding paper. . .
Ive also used TP Tools for some of my materials: Non-Sticky Wet/Dry Sheet Sandpaper for Auto Body - TP Tools & Equipment
Honestly though I think Wally World (Wal-Mart) had a small selection the last time I walked thru there. When I wet sand for buffing I start with 1000 grit (over everything), move up to a 2000 grit (over everything again), and then finish with a 3000 grit (you guessed it, over everything again). To apply the water I use a hand held spray bottle and keep spraying over the area as needed to keep the grit from building up.
Before with significant orange peel:
And After:
As far as special sanding blocks you can check out the TP Tools website again. . . I know they offer quite a selection. I'm somewhat cheap and have made my own out of various materials including foam pipe insulation. . . but mostly sand by hand especially with the finer stuff.
Ive also used TP Tools for some of my materials: Non-Sticky Wet/Dry Sheet Sandpaper for Auto Body - TP Tools & Equipment
Honestly though I think Wally World (Wal-Mart) had a small selection the last time I walked thru there. When I wet sand for buffing I start with 1000 grit (over everything), move up to a 2000 grit (over everything again), and then finish with a 3000 grit (you guessed it, over everything again). To apply the water I use a hand held spray bottle and keep spraying over the area as needed to keep the grit from building up.
Before with significant orange peel:
And After:
As far as special sanding blocks you can check out the TP Tools website again. . . I know they offer quite a selection. I'm somewhat cheap and have made my own out of various materials including foam pipe insulation. . . but mostly sand by hand especially with the finer stuff.
