LX470 HID RETROFIT PROJECTOR BRACKET (1 Viewer)

[Luke111]

Luke, I have Mini H1s in my LX and love it! Retrofit of projectors is OK project. If I was making a suggestion - come up with NICE AND SOLID wiring harness. Plug and play, with proper length and instructions on where to mount and how.
I would pay $100-200 for harness like this designed for my LX. It needs to be factory-like without all those bulky connectors and such. If you can design box where all this crap (balasts, igniters and so on) will be mounted with a way to mount box under hood - perfect.

These are all great idea's but the market doesn't warrant the expense to design and build. Selling two brackets and one to two sets of retrofitted headlights a
month makes it hard to justify. I did order a few factory headlight connectors and may offer the TRS harness with the OEM connector attached and that’s the only connector I can replace. Based on the post above I may switch out the relays for higher quality ones or just include them in the kit

 

[shiretowndown]

The brackets are only needed for LX models when replacing the factory projector.

How To: HID+Projector Retrofit on a 100 Series.

@bamabrock are you currently running these upgraded lights down in Bham?

 

[jerryb]

Personally I think the wire needs to be better, and the way it's grounded together, and the signal, as is, isnt split between low beam inputs. There is one trigger to the new twin relay set up. Which has one benefit I can see. But a few drawbacks.
They are all made like that. It isn't an issue overall in the 20 dollar twin relay standard set up available everywhere.
Semantics really. I have mine on one trigger.
What should be done is rewire it. Or go with it as is and replace it first when or if something quits working. Not a big deal. Not much money. Lou's right in the fact that it isn't worth it. Except if you already have the supplies.

One easy thing will help with these setups, extend your hot wire to custom length. Shorten the ground (main). Check the joining ground for the relays under the main tubing(solder it or re crimp, and or use better wire)
After that it shouldn't be a problem. I'm not against the morimoto dual set up at all. It's cost effective until it isn't .

Go through all the standard trouble shooting for hid available online. They will all pertain universally.
But in this case right here, in this HID thing for 100s, check the relays first and a clean ground and input signal.
They should last a very long time.

 

[jerryb]

deconstructing the morimoto HD relay.

I found an extra while I was looking for stuff yesterday, and I have lots of free time. This is the 3rd one I've taken apart in a span of maybe 3 years. All 3 have had different type of wires and differing quality of crimps at the ground and power lines. This one pictured is the highest quality...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Luke111]

Teasers for a new Builtwerks Retrofit thread covering LX and LC retrofits.(It will be short), picture heavy and a place for open discussions about retrofitting.
@zipdoa these are for you
MLED 2.0 with the HB LED ...running switchback halo’s backlighting the HB LED and XBR Demon Eyes in the MLED 2.0 . I’ll most likely demonize the HB for balance. Trying to stay busy with social distancing, stay at home boredom setting in

 

[zipdoa]

Haha - every time this thread is updated I check it out immediately. I’ll make time to contact you this week!

 

[Luke111]

I thought that might get your attention...I had to cut out a fairly large section and making the fiberglass cover was a PITA. I'm contacting my CAD guy who helped design the bracket and have him 3D print replacement covers that can be epoxied into place.

 

[Kabanstva]

Very cool!

 

[shiretowndown]

I'm gonna be honest....when it comes time to replace my LX headlights (which is right now honestly) I'm just gonna need somebody to make me some...

 

[Luke111]

I'm gonna be honest....when it comes time to replace my LX headlights (which is right now honestly) I'm just gonna need somebody to make me some...

Give me a call if you’re ready... I can have them finished in a week
Cheers
Lou
703-371-8494

 

[shiretowndown]

wow... 37 pages I'm a HID/projector newb and would appreciate any help. I watched the TRS install video and they show installing the bulbs directly into the factory housing. What's the benefit of the projector? Does it give the light cut-off so I'm not blinding everyone? So if I buy this bracket, I would need to open my headlight to install the projector? Then I'd need to buy a Projector kit rather than a HID system?? Can I do low and high beams? My housings are really sun-faded, will using a Headlight Restoration System be enough or should I buy new housings?

Sorry for all the dumb questions. Would really like to upgrade the light output on my '06 LX470
View attachment 2243581

@Pick

Give me a call if you’re ready... I can have them finished in a week
Cheers
Lou
703-371-8494

Nice! I'll be in touch

 

[RPLX470]

Hello, new here and trying to find a way to improve my headlights. Are these brackets available? Do you have a cost per pair? Would this allow to fit HID or LED bulbs?

Thank you for any information you can provide!

 

[Pick]

I tried some HID lights in my factory projectors and I'm not super disappointed. I polished the lens (need to figure out how/what to protect them with) and installed the Morimoto H1 Elite HID Kit System. Will adding an after-market projector be a significant improvement?

Before / After of the lens:

Driver-side is the HID and passenger-side is the factory halogen:

I used a AuxBeam F16 LED for the high beam (works with DRL) and a cheap HID for the Fog light

 

[Luke111]

Hello, new here and trying to find a way to improve my headlights. Are these brackets available? Do you have a cost per pair? Would this allow to fit HID or LED bulbs?

Thank you for any information you can provide!

The improvement comes from retrofitting a new projector into the LX470 housing and running a HID bulb..Some owners have installed HID bulbs into the stock projectors with a slight improvement but the stock projector are not designed to run a HID bulbs. The results you’re looking at above is approximately 20-25 feet away... the actual results on the road are splotchy and very undefined. I did the same thing but I changed the actual lens in the factory projector to a clear lens. The factory lens is designed to slightly distort the output and my results were not good....which is the reason I designed a bracket allowing one to retrofit a new projector for amazing results.
Cost is approximately $400 the DIY route and $1650-$1750 for new OEM housings retrofitted with the slightly larger Morimoto D2S pretty much plug and play.

The brackets are available on my site www.lbbuiltwerks.com .. The results are amazing.. Stock VS HID.

 

[Luke111]

Proving my point about factory lenses clarity Below is the cutoff and output off a $90k Lexus LS500 running triple LED bulbs

 

[Pick]

The improvement comes from retrofitting a new projector into the LX470 housing and running a HID bulb..Some owners have installed HID bulbs into the stock projectors with a slight improvement but the stock projector are not designed to run a HID bulbs. The results you’re looking at above is approximately 20-25 feet away... the actual results on the road are splotchy and very undefined. I did the same thing but I changed the actual lens in the factory projector to a clear lens. The factory lens is designed to slightly distort the output and my results were not good....which is the reason I designed a bracket allowing one to retrofit a new projector for amazing results.
Cost is approximately $400 the DIY route and $1650-$1750 for new OEM housings retrofitted with the slightly larger Morimoto D2S pretty much plug and play.

The brackets are available on my site www.lbbuiltwerks.com .. The results are amazing.. Stock VS HID.

View attachment 2263626

View attachment 2263627

EXCELLENT explanation... exactly what I was looking for > THANK YOU!! I will be in touch once life gets back to some type of normalcy...

 

[Deity X]

The Mini H1 is definitely on my to do list. Hoping for a TRS sale soon then I can pull the trigger.

 

[LandHoosier]

I plan on using your bracket to do a D2S swap when Retrofitsource has another sale. I've done three retro-quick retrofits already and am wondering how much cutting is needed to make the D2S work. Also, I'm debating between running some 2.0stroke leds in the high beams or doing the HB projector. Do you have any experience running both? If so, which did you prefer? I really like the idea of the backlighting switchbacks in the high beams. If that is not crazy complicated, that may sway my decision towards the HB. Thanks!

 

[Luke111]

I plan on using your bracket to do a D2S swap when Retrofitsource has another sale. I've done three retro-quick retrofits already and am wondering how much cutting is needed to make the D2S work. Also, I'm debating between running some 2.0stroke leds in the high beams or doing the HB projector. Do you have any experience running both? If so, which did you prefer? I really like the idea of the backlighting switchbacks in the high beams. If that is not crazy complicated, that may sway my decision towards the HB. Thanks!

Two things to consider.. what year is your truck? If you have a early model with glass headlights you should stay away from the D2S. It requires you to open up the shroud for clearance of the larger D2S. The early chrome process has been know to delaminate off the shroud from the vibration of the dremel. The bracket holes for projector mounting are larger so perfect placement is more difficult and it may require bending and trimming the shroud attachments points to center the shroud. I’m not going to start another thread on installing the D2S and I don’t want the responsibility if you mess up your shrouds opening them up. That’s one of the reasons why I only retrofit new housings when installing the D2S.
if you’re driving stock headlights you’ll be extremely happy running the Mini H1 7.0 and it’s a simple retrofit. the 2 Stroke and the HB LED are nice additions. The 2 Stroke plugs right into the factory housing, includes the DRL function. I’m currently running the HB LED and it requires opening the HB side of the housing and you give up the DRL. I have the switchbacks connected to a switch pod so I can run them as a DRL but they are not very bright so the plan is to add halos to the front which produces a bright DRL

 

[LandHoosier]

Two things to consider.. what year is your truck? If you have a early model with glass headlights you should stay away from the D2S. It requires you to open up the shroud for clearance of the larger D2S. The early chrome process has been know to delaminate off the shroud from the vibration of the dremel. The bracket holes for projector mounting are larger so perfect placement is more difficult and it may require bending and trimming the shroud attachments points to center the shroud. I’m not going to start another thread on installing the D2S and I don’t want the responsibility if you mess up your shrouds opening them up. That’s one of the reasons why I only retrofit new housings when installing the D2S.
if you’re driving stock headlights you’ll be extremely happy running the Mini H1 7.0 and it’s a simple retrofit. the 2 Stroke and the HB LED are nice additions. The 2 Stroke plugs right into the factory housing, includes the DRL function. I’m currently running the HB LED and it requires opening the HB side of the housing and you give up the DRL. I have the switchbacks connected to a switch pod so I can run them as a DRL but they are not very bright so the plan is to add halos to the front which produces a bright DRL

Cool thanks for the info. I have an 05 with the plastic lenses. I’d prefer to run the D2S since I already have the bulbs and wiring. I get your points on avoiding the responsibilities of people breaking their shrouds or housings. And good info on the differences between the 2stroke and HBs. I appreciate the input. I may have to take the risk on the D2S. The Philips XVs are amazing and have set the bar high.