How To: HID+Projector Retrofit on a 100 Series.

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Where's My Hammer?
Oct 7, 2008
2000 100 using Morimoto Mini H1 with XB35 Bulbs and 35W ballasts.

Start by unboxing everything.
Tape off semi-imaginary cutoff line.
Tape wheel location ( if you move the vehicle you can move it back l, not Needed if you test inside. But I'm not hauling a battery around. I am testing in vehicle)
Look at your headlights one last time and turn off everything.

EDIT : I am finished now, go ahead and post up :)

Few thoughts and observations, obviously it's a very easy project, if you have common sense you can do this with no problem.

I could NOT figure out half the rings and adapters and things they sent me. I used the small silicone ring (you will see it when you open yours up). The large one will not work. So I only used the small silicone seal, and the locking ring with a tube of locktite on each side almost. Make sure you mount the headlights and projectors on the truck before you seal them up. I failed to do this and in result I cannot aim my headlights up far enough. The cutoff is so sharp ( which is good, it's what I wanted) that I can't see anything past the cutoff and need my highbeams if there is little to no light. I need to think of something soon. Quality is great, no complaints in that department.

There is no green on warm-up. Only IiPhone effect
HID Warm-up
Still aimed to low. Need to fit this ASAP
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Remove grill- 3 screws ontop. 2 clips on the bottom by headlights.

-10MM socket for headlights headlights

-Found out why headlights leak... The OEM glue failed. They are ready to be pulled apart right now
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Pull it out (lol). It takes a little wiggling.

Remove all rubber peices. And remove lense retainer clips. I think I'm missing some.

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Driver- 210*F for 7 minutes, came apart with no fight.

Passenger- 210* for 8 minutes and came apart with little fight.

Small flat head screw driver did the trick, just work around in a circle and pry. You will feel it start to give way. Make sure the bezel does not come with the lens, you risk cracking the bezel.

(picture was first time I tried, 175* does not cut it)
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Take the projector apart and clean/polish it. Cycle the seloniod by hand to see if it's free moving and no grittyness. You do not need to polish or wipe it down, but I highly recommend it as there was small bits of dust and a few finger prints on it. Use a microfiber cloth so the lint doesn't fly everywhere. I propped up a blow dryer and dusted/polished so whatever came off the projector blew away and not floated up and back in.
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Separate class and place aside. Take housing to another table to disassemble. As the picture shows, the headlights (I found) are easier to separate on the grill side. I ran a razor blade between to cut the glue to speed up the seperation. It will take work. DO NOT go attacking the headlights with a flat head screw driver or paint scraper. These are glass, you CAN chip/crack the lens. Be careful.
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The bezel is held on by 2 clips and 2 "centering holes". The clips are on the bottom left and top right of the headlight ( looking at it). They take a little work getting free. Don't be scared.

I circled the clip so you can see what it looks like and how to attack it.

The arrow shows the "reflector" mount. Slide a very thin screw driver or old knife that you do not care about and rotate it. Straightening this allows you to slide it out rather than cut it out and make a mess. I cut one and did this method and it's much easier to just straighten it out and slide it out.
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why does the bezel need to be removed? Just for cleaning? Can you just take the glass off, remove the factory reflector and mount the projector?
I can't find dremel... FAWK

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Both "walls" need to be cut down to a rubble. The mounts for the 9006 plates need to be cut back to allow for the H1 mount to fit in. I didn't have a dremel today and already cut stuff. I make my own cutting tool. Not the best, but it worked as I needed it to.

Red- Cut it.

Green- leave it. The Locking Ring will sit on that ledge tighten down on it.
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As you can see above, the red lines are where you need to be cut. If you do not the H1 mount will not have enough room to be seated properly. You must grind away to make clearnace. First picture shows the H1 mount, mounted in the projector with the newly cut housing.

then a rough test fit before I went outside to do a test. This is where you will get your alignment to make sure your beam is straight and not crooked.
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