LX470 HID RETROFIT PROJECTOR BRACKET (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I sent a PM asking home to call me. The lights are not connected properly and he did not use the provided harness.
I forgot to update everyone. I went back and utilized the provided relay harness and the lights have been working flawlessly for the last several weeks. Thanks for the help Lou.

My impression of this mod.... those who have not done this yet, DO IT. Easily one of the best mods to these trucks. I have an 04 LS430 which is known to have one of the best lights from that era and these D2S projectors blow them out of the water. I don’t think I’ve seen any other oem lights that are better than this.
 
I forgot to update everyone. I went back and utilized the provided relay harness and the lights have been working flawlessly for the last several weeks. Thanks for the help Lou.

My impression of this mod.... those who have not done this yet, DO IT. Easily one of the best mods to these trucks. I have an 04 LS430 which is known to have one of the best lights from that era and these D2S projectors blow them out of the water. I don’t think I’ve seen any other oem lights that are better than this.
You didn’t see much then :)
Self leveling and turning systems on new cars way better. My BMW lights better for sure
 
You didn’t see much then :)
Self leveling and turning systems on new cars way better. My BMW lights better for sure

LS430 is both AFS and self leveling.... it’s nothing new. Doesn’t affect the light output at all which is what I am referring to. The cutoff on these is better also. And for the record I’ve been in many new Porsche and BMW and was less than impressed with their lights.
 
I upgrade my headlights using the Philips H1 LED and I was blown by the result. Highly recommend it. I bought it directly from the amazon in UK and I couldn't be happier.

Amazon product ASIN B07MKDBKD5
light1.jpg
light2.jpg
light3.jpg
 
Last edited:
LED bulbs are getting better and better. I’m assuming with the short heat sync these fit under the rear cap? The concern would be how they survive without additional venting. I’d have serious concerns about a long evening trip and having these getting toasted at the wrong time.
I’m running a pair of GTR LED’s in my 2011 Prius which has factory projectors that were running halogen bulbs similar to the LX. I was also Impressed by the improvement over stock. I still have the squirrel finders which I’m coming to believe defuse the light at a distance breaking up the razor sharp cutoff of projectors but the LED heat sync in the Prius live outside of the housing for adequate cooling which we all know he is the biggest enemy of LEDs .. Time will tell if they survive under the cap but I currently have two new OEM Prius housing sitting on the bench which I just retrofitted with HID projectors as I have concerns about the survivability of the LEDs even though mine sit outside of cap.
There’s a thread on MUD about guys running LED’s in LX’s and Land Cruisers... might be a great place to post your results.
 
Hi fellow mudders I’m preparing the components for this project in the next few days, I have a few questions and I hope you can help me out.
• I will be going for the Morimoto Bi-Xenon Mini 8.0 projectors route.
• I already have an existing 35-watt HID kit (xenon bulb + ballast installed on the Lx now, will this work accordingly to my Morimoto Bi-Xenon Mini 8.0?
• I will be getting the bracket from @Luke111 so installation hopefully will not be as complicated as I hope it would be.
• I still have a full roll of butyl rope headlight sealant from a previous project (not Morimoto)
• What other components am I missing?
• Is it as straightforward P&P and the high beam of the Mini 8.0 will work during high beam switching or I need some sort of harness to get the Mini 8.0’s high beam to work alongside the factory high beam (which I switched to LED now)?
Thanks in advance ladies and gents.
 
thanks for this, I will be ordering a pair. I will be going for the mini square shroud,
View attachment 2501211
Has anyone used this before and encountered fitting or compatibility issues?
You won’t need shrouds and not sure how that would look or work... the LX low beam side has a chrome shroud that covers the projector.. I believe when you’re ordering the kit it makes you pick a shroud but you will not use it. Below are the OEM shrouds.

603AD789-92FC-4DDA-ADC5-66CC96029582.jpeg
 
075195B1-0F95-46F3-8182-801B850B16D8.jpeg
45392102-7F48-4B50-956E-7DD6F51184FC.jpeg

Got a few components today from @Luke111 and @Flipped Bezel. Thank you gents. Although I am curious what that single black and red pigtail is for. 🤔
 
Last edited:
Hard for me to remember and I could be mistaken.....but check and see if that connector fits into the relay harness low beam input connector. On the harness it should be marked with a tag. I think that that pigtail with the connector is how Lou's kit ties in to the trucks low beam wiring harness. When I first installed mine, I cut the stock connector off and spliced in one that he sent to mate up to the relay harness input.

It is my understanding that LCs stock low beam connectors mate up to the TRS harness directly with no issues but LXs have a different style connector and require either replacing the trucks stock low beam connector with one that will mate with the relay harness input connector or replacing the TRS harness input connector to mate with the stock truck low beam connector.

@jerryb has figured out which stock style connector mates up to the OEM Lexus low beam connector so that you would not have to cut your LXs wiring and splice in such a pigtail if you wanted to add the correct connector to your harness. I recently installed a new custom harness with a salvaged stock connector and it was plug and play to the other remaining stock connector that I hadn't originally cut off. All of the wiring component details can be found here: LX low beam connector (plastic cap side male and female) HID relay, burned, melted, repair.

If you have the time, you could source the needed connector [Housing Connector M - Toyota (90980-11293)] and terminals and cut the low beam input connector off of the relay harness. Then install the OEM style components onto it and make it where you wouldn't need to modify your trucks low beam wiring at all. Look at the first post on Jerry's thread and he lists part numbers for all of the OEM style components that are used in the stock style connector.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the help and detailed write up! Got this successfully installed and the results are beyond great!

However what I would recommend as a follow up product is a bracket or tray to mount the ballasts on. As right now I am just zip tied them to the stock conduits.

Just my $0.02.
 
I agree totally with your thoughts on the ballast mounting. On my install I just drilled holes in the inner fender well and mounted the ballasts there so that they were not vibrating and getting beat up by bouncing around a bunch with the rough roads that I drive on. The only issue I have is when I get around to cleaning my engine bay, I have to use caution with the water hose/pressure washer.

I found some posts that I have quoted below in this thread: LX470 HID Retrofit Project where @greasem0nkey86 has an ingenious solution to this issue by mounting his ballasts on a custom a mounting plate that he made that screws onto the bottom of the light housings. Although the ballasts are not as easily accessed in this location for troubleshooting etc., I really like how the plates clean up the installation and provide a good mounting point for the ballasts in a fairly well protected location underneath the light housings. The only worries there would be if you tend to make deep water crossings, it would be mounted lower than in the engine bay or inner fender wells and they could be more subject to submerging.

On my next HID installation I am considering copying his ballast mounting plate solution shown below. Hopefully @greasem0nkey86 will see this and can update if he has encountered any issues with this type of mounting or provide some feedback from this installation.

For those who are interested in mounting the ballast under the headlight similar to how @xirforever did and don't have the means to cut your own bushings. An option is to use heat-set inserts. I used a tapered M6 insert that I purchased through McMaster Carr. You'll need a soldering iron in order to heat the insert and melt the plastic to press in the fitting.

Link: McMaster-Carr

View attachment 2107935
View attachment 2107937View attachment 2107938View attachment 2107939View attachment 2107940
 
Last edited:
I do like the undermount idea but this is what I've done. With as much testing and unplugging and re plugging with relay sets that I do I need them easy to get to. That's why I put the angle in it, otherwise I'd point it down. Drivers side has to point down with the battery right there.
There's a blank hole for an m6 bolt on the crossmember the hood rests on that's probably even a better idea. @Kabanstva has one there I think.

PXL_20201129_093240867.jpg
 
Thanks for all the help and detailed write up! Got this successfully installed and the results are beyond great!

However what I would recommend as a follow up product is a bracket or tray to mount the ballasts on. As right now I am just zip tied them to the stock conduits.

Just my $0.02.

I use HD velcro and mount them in the inner fender behind the side marker light. I need access to the ballast when building custom lights... each pair are installed in my LX for adjustments so mounting the ballast to the light does not work for me and in the evert a ballast fails and needs replacing the inner fender is easy access vs removing all the trim and headlights... even accessing it from below would be a PITA
I have not checked the cost involved at a minimum run of 100 but considering I’m selling more fully retrofitted headlights at $1750 then $95 brackets. I doubt I’ll ever offer a bracket to mount the ballast
 
Installed my Mini H1’s with Luke’s bracket this week. Everything is pretty straightforward, honestly the hardest part is probably dealing with the lens adhesive, but nothing was overly technical. Followed the instructions on his DIY link and pretty much had zero issues. I can’t imagine doing this upgrade without the bracket. Great job Luke!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom