I would consider leaving it. Factory glass factory gasket and it’s not THAT noticeable.
Builds Jacks 40 to fake 45 build (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter JackA
- Start date
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MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
He widened the window. A factory gasket won’t work. Two gaskets split and glued would work just need the grab the ends with the same radius.
I noticed that he widened it after I posted. I often speak before I have processed everything.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
You can see the lower front corner has a different radius to match the door opening.
All because they didn't know the trick of compensating for moving things +/- 3" forward with a SBC swap. Using a 60 series shifter plate on top of the 40 4 spd. Fits perfectly and moves the shifter back about 3.5".
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
I haven't been following that close. After mentioning just using a hatch to made it easy to do didn't notice what your were using. My approach would have been completely different because of my lack of a welder or skills using a welder. Would used these parts and made a side vent window behind the doors. Cowl vent and these would help on dusty Arizona trails.
If you really want to do it right use the 4/85 H42 transmission housing with parts from a earlier pre 8/80 H42. That way the transfer shifter would move back as well. Seen those late H42s go cheap enough to be an option. People pull those out all the time for a H55F upgrade.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Probably when that blue hump was altered, using the 60 series shifter plate was unknown and FJ60 was relatively new or not on the market yet. It most likely was from a V8 conversions, because of how far forward the trans hole is. It was slotted so you didn't have to remove the hump to get the trans out.
whitey45
SILVER Star
Most sbc swaps were done in the 60’s early 70’s, long before the 60 series were produced!
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
During the eighties it was not commonly know that it was possible to use 60 series top on the 40 series. Been a few threads where it been discussed if it is possible. That was even a lot later. This was a time you just couldn't get on the internet and search for a answer. During the eighties 60 series were still being made and repaired under insurance. Not many showing up in wrecking yards. Toyota was proud of there parts and prices reflected that. Hate to think what Toyota would have charged for a complete assembled cover. If I knew back then what I know today would have grabbed more parts. At that time grabbed a couple 4/85-7/87 transmission shift canes not knowing the difference. Now I know the earlier version is a better fit for the 40 series. Also grabbed a couple of transfer case levers coming thru the hump off the same vehicles. That was to get the boots that match the transmission boot. Today would have grabbed the rest of the transfer case shifter.
I do not run V8s in 40 series but if I did would probably go a 8/80-4/85 H42 built in a later case with the boss to mount the transfer case shifter on the reverse gear area. Plus a split case with hand brake. End it with 3.70:1 diff gears for the intended use of this vehicle. Might go 4.11:1 depending on tire size. Thinking very serious about this gearing for my 45 except will not need a late H42 housing running a six cylinder.
You're right, of course. Couple of the Pigs that passed through my hands had early SBC conversions that resulted in cut and/or bent shifters and even hacked up heater faces to accommodate the move forward.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Alternatively a one piece aftermarket gasket could be used to allow for only one but joint. It would closely resemble a pre72 rear window gasket.
- Thread starter
- #118
Cut down the top cap. I actually got it pretty good on the first cuts. Alittle grinding and there's like no gap. The profile is off, but flexes into place and lines up great. Plus the rivet holes still line up.
Now I need to learn how to glass it back together .
Now I need to learn how to glass it back together .
Glass work is the easy part. You clearly have the base skills to be able to do the job.
One of these days, I'd love to add about 12" into my 40 hardtop to turn it into a 43 top... and then add +/- 12" to my tub and stretch my wheelbase 5-6". Unfortunately, it's more of a pipe dream than a possible reality... health prohibits taking on a project of that size.
One of these days, I'd love to add about 12" into my 40 hardtop to turn it into a 43 top... and then add +/- 12" to my tub and stretch my wheelbase 5-6". Unfortunately, it's more of a pipe dream than a possible reality... health prohibits taking on a project of that size.
Michael B
SILVER Star
Jack you might consider a reinforcement bar across the roof, inside, from left to right. I have a glass replacement top on my 45 and it flexed pretty good at speed. During the rebuild an inch wide strip of steel fixed the issue.
